Credit: 13r1an
This thread might be quite old, but it seems the issue was never resolved on the forum, so here’s some helpful information. The component in question is definitely the culprit. It fails, though I’m not sure exactly why or how. Once it does, your turn signals won’t cancel automatically anymore.
For replacement, start by removing the airbag: Unscrew two T-50 safety torx on each side, disconnect two connectors, and remove the 19MM center nut. Remember to mark the alignment—there’s a small dot, just make a mark so you can realign the steering wheel properly on the spline assembly during reassembly.
Alternatively, keeping the steering wheel straight or level while disassembling is also effective. You’ll also need to remove the underdash panel (two Philips screws, some clips, and disconnect the buzzer) to access the six Philips screws that hold the steering column shroud together. After removing that, use four Philips screws to detach the rotating ring and let it hang. Then, remove the blinker and wiper stalks with two Philips screws on each side, followed by three Philips screws to take out the broken piece directly in front of you. Replace it, reassemble everything, and you’re good to go.
A few notes:
- These instructions are from memory, so there may be slight inaccuracies.
- Be careful not to overtighten the 19MM nut, as this can make the steering wheel hard to turn. Avoid using an impact tool for this.
- Attached are two pictures for reference. The yellow one is for the Maxima, the blue for the i30. They differ slightly.
- For my i30, I adapted a yellow version with metal studs which lasted over 100,000 miles before failing. It’s best to get the correct part specifically designed for your vehicle.
Update 1:
The component is known as a “combination switch.” The Haynes manual provides instructions on how to remove it.
Update #2:
I’m not quite sure how I managed to mess this up twice, but I sheared off the nubs again—likely because I over-tightened the 19MM nut, which pushes the assembly down the shaft, causing it to encounter resistance from the bearing assembly. So, when replacing this, only tighten the nut enough to secure the wheel and no more! My nearest junkyard is an hour’s drive away, so instead of getting a new part, I chose to drill holes and thread bolts to fix it. It might be a makeshift solution, but it works, and now my blinker self-cancels again. At 242,000 miles, I have no complaints.
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