4thgen Nissan Maxima 60K+ Mile Service Maintenance

Last Updated: 05/17/2021 @ 09:50 am

Community Member Credit: Jeff Ketch

Here is a list of things that need to be done for the 60K service.

Spark Plugs: 6 NGK Platinum spark plugs are required for the tune-up. Platinum plugs do not need to be gapped. If you use copper plugs the gap is .044. Put anti-seize on the spark plug threads and torque to 18 ft/lbs. The spark plug socket is 16mm or 5/8. The spark chambers are very deep as you will find out. A magnet will help to remove and install the plugs. Also a couple of socket extensions are necessary. Remove the spark plug cover (Nissan V6 3000) to reveal the front three plugs. The rear three plugs are behind the exhaust manifolds. The last picture shows an approximate location.
Oil Change: Make sure the car is on a flat surface. Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. The filter and plug are behind a panel in the passenger fender well. There are about 4 Phillips head screws holding the panel in place. There is one more Phillips head screw under the front nose of the car that needs to be removed. Once the panel is removed you can see the plug and filter. Remove the drain plug (turn left) and make sure that you keep the crush ring that is on the drain plug. Nissan recommends that you replace the crush ring ever oil change. The ring should be good for about 3-4 oil changes. Remove the old oil filter and then reinstall the oil plug. Put fresh oil into the new filter and install. When the filter gives slight resistance turn it another 2/3 of a turn. Tightening the filter by hand is all that is needed. Add 4 quarts of fresh oil and then start the car. The car takes 4.5 quarts but make sure that you do not over fill. The Nissan filter # 15208-31U00.
Fuel Filter: The filter is located against the fire wall near the brake fluid. There is no real easy way to remove the filter. It has a hose clamp at the top and bottom of the filter. The hose clamps are tightened with Phillips head screws. The problem is Nissan did not leave a lot of room to get a screwdriver in there in order to remove the filter. If you want to attempt to change the filter here are a few tips. Leave the car running. You will need to remove the fuel pump fuse. The fuse panel is under the steering wheel on the left. Locate the fuel pump fuse and remove it. In about 5-10 seconds the car will stall. Try to start the car at least one more time. This releases the pressure in the fuel line. Turn the car off completely. Now try and remove the top and bottom hose on the filter. When reinstalling the filter make sure that you don’t install upside down. When new filter is installed put the fuse back in and start the car.
Transmission Fluid: The drain is under the transmission near the driver’s side of the car. The fill is in the front of the engine and looks like a large square opening. In order to open that fill plug you need a 1/2″ ratchet with out the socket. The transmission takes 4.5 quarts of MT-90. I have provided a picture from the shop manual to show the location of the drain bolt and fill plug. Easy way to fill the transmission is to get some plastic tubing and tape a funnel to one end.
Radiator Coolant: The radiator takes 9.5 quarts of fluid. The mixture is 50% coolant and 50% distilled water. There are 3 drains that you need to find. One is the radiator drain which is directly under the radiator. The second is in front of the engine dead center near the exhaust manifold. Third is in back of the engine. Here is a picture of the third drain bolt. If you take off the passenger front tire, look on the left side of the front shocks and turn your head a little to the right. That is were the picture is looking. The bolt is in the top right of the picture left of the black wire. I had the dealer to it for under $50.
PCV Valve: The location of the valve is not longer a mystery. Located near the throttle body.
Belt Replacement: The ’95 has two accessory belts. One is the alternator and the other is compressor/power steering. This jobs took me over a hour to complete. You will need long combination wrenches and sockets. The sizes are 12 and 14 millimeter. Please note how tight the belts are because you have to adjust the belt accordingly. It’s call “deflection” so please push on the belts and remember. After the install you need to get the belts close to the same deflection.

Take off the passenger side front wheel and the oil cover. This will expose the belts.

View from under the car. Looking at the center pulley. You have to loosen the bolt in the middle of the pulley. Then directly above is the adjustment bolt that you will loosen to raise the pulley. The next picture shows the top bolt.

View from the top passenger fender looking near time chain cover. Loosen the bolt so that you can raise the center pulley. This is the belt that needs to be removed first.

View from the top looking to the left. Loosen the bolt so that you can lower the power steering pump. There is a bolt on the other end of the threads that you can’t see. That bolt will lower the pump.

View from the bottom of the car. Tighten the bolt so that you can lower the power steering pump. The bolt is threaded into a clamp that when tightened the clamp closes, lowering the power steering pump.
Tighten throttle cable: Make sure the cable is low and in-between the half moon shape. The cable at the relaxed state should not be above the half moon…there needs to be more tension. The outside cable is your cruise control and the inside is your throttle. To fix this follow the cable about 6 inches back to two nuts. Loose the front nut and spin that forward, the cable will come loose but now you spin the back nut in the same direction and that will take up the slack along with securing the cable to the mounting bracket.
ECU reset: This is not needed for the 60K service. If the “check engine light” comes on. This is the proper way to reset it. Andi is the one who scanned the page.