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How to Swap a Newer Gen2/3 2007+ Altima or 2009+ Maxima VQ35DE Engine (into Older Nissans)

Original Source Credit: http://www.nisformance.com/Articles.asp?ID=252

This article shows how to swap a 2007+ Altima 3.5L VQ35 engine, or 2009+ Maxima 3.5L engine into older Nissan Maxima’s. Including the 2002-2006 Altima (3.5L) and 2002-2008 Maxima’s. This motor swap is referred to as the 2nd Generation (Gen2/Gen3) VQ35DE swap.

NISformance Swap Kit

  • This kit allows you to install a 2nd generation or 3rd generation VQ35DE engine into a 2002-2008 Maxima or 2002-2006 Altima (3.5 V6)
  • The NISformance 2nd Generation VQ35DE swap kit consist of four main components. (2) Cam sensor signal inverters, a plug and play throttle body adapter harness, a belt tensioner bracket, and an alternator bracket. Each component and its intended use is detailed below.
  • Camshaft sensor signal inverters – Allow the stock harness to be attached to a newer 2nd generation motor and intercept the camshaft signal wires. This is an essential part of the swap kit and has been designed with ease of install in mind. Each inverter comes with a camshaft sensor plug attached. Wiring necessary consist of three wires. Ground, Power, and Signal. These new inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.
  • Throttle body adapter harness – Necessary in order to utilize the 70 or 75 millimeter throttle body that is equipped on 2nd generation motors.
  • Belt tensioner and alternator brackets – Needed in order to use stock alternator and belt tensioner. Zinc coated for high corrosion resistance and added clean look.

VQ35DE Engine

There are three generations of the front wheel drive VQ35DE engine.

  • The first generation VQ35DE was used by Nissan in many front wheel drive applications. Ranging from the Maxima to the Quest minivan.
  • Second generation engines were used in the 2009+ Maxima , and 2007+ 3.5L Altima as well as a few other front wheel drive applications as before. The second generation VQ35DE engine is equipped with “HR” heads allowing for increased air flow and improved performance. Oil consumption and other flaws commonly found in first generation motors have also been addressed.
  • There are also two variations of the 2nd Gen VQ35DE engine. A Maxima engine is equipped with EVT ( Exhaust Valve Timing ) and has a slightly higher compression ratio along with larger intake manifold and throttle body (75mm). The Altima engine has a slightly lower compression ratio, and is not equipped with EVT. The intake manifold and throttle body (70mm) are also a bit smaller.
  • There is now a third generation of the front wheel drive VQ35DE. This engine is found mostly in the 2016+ Nissan Maxima. This engine can be used for this swap, with the only difference being the TB pin out. We offer the correct TB adapter harness for this newer TB as an option for our swap kit.

Required and recommended items:

2nd Generation VQ35DE Swap Kit ($230.00)

Order Link: http://www.nisformance.com/2nd-3rd-Gen-VQ35DE-swap-kit-p/hrkitv2.htm

EPS Tuning Oil Gallery Gasket/Hardware Kit 2nd Generation VQ35DE engine ($60.00)

Order Link: http://www.nisformance.com/EPS-Tuning-Oil-Gallery-Gasket-Hardware-Kit-p/oilgallerykitfwdhr.htm

There are a few things to keep in mind before beginning your swap:

  • It’s easier to do this swap if you have a 3.5 DE motor laying around, especially if you just pulled it out of the car. You will need to take some things off of the old motor to use on the HR. Without this, there are a few parts that you will have to purchase in order to complete the swap.
  • Keep in mind, you are swapping the “long block” with intake manifold only. You will need to re use a lot of your existing accessories or parts specific to your car. This also includes wiring and harnesses, sub harnesses ect..
  • Picture below is what your prepped “2nd Gen” or “3rd Gen” engine should look like prior to going into your car.
    There are some specific tools needed: An ‘E8’ torx socket, 5/16 Allen key, Loctite

Stripping the motor

Depending on where your motor came from, there may be a lot of ‘extra’ pieces still attached to it. Some of these will just get in your way while you prep your motor, some can’t be used for this swap.

  • Remove all accessories, which includes the alternator, power steering pump.
  • Remove any harnesses and brackets that are still connected to the motor.
  • Remove upper intake manifold (removing lower manifold is not necessary, but sometimes desirable. If removed, a new gasket should be used to reinstall).
  • Remove oil temperature sender:
  • Remove idler pulley/tensioner ‘spacer’ (seen below in red):
    ** The injector rail may also be removed, but that isn’t necessary.

Modifying the Motor

Some parts of the motor will need to be cut somehow (tools, methods and results will vary) to allow for proper fitment and function once it’s reinstalled.

** Because of some concerns about the integrity of the stock oil gallery gasket, we at NISformance strongly recommend replacing it in this step. **

  • When changing the oil gallery gasket, this is a good time to grind away the center portion of the power steering bracket before reassembling the front of the motor.
  • Grind/cut away the center portion of the power steering bracket. This requires some aggressive cutting, but also needs some attention to detail (cutting too DEEPLY can weaken the integrity of the timing cover. Cutting too WIDE can weaken the remaining brackets that will be needed to hold the alternator):
  • Grind/cut away a portion of the metal where the idler pulley/tensioner spacer was:
  • Remove exhaust manifold studs at the rear most exhaust port (close to the trans). This requires an ‘E8‘ torx socket:
  • Clean out the threads in the opposite holes using a ‘10×1.25‘ tap.
  • Replace the removed studs into the newly cleaned holes:
  • Remove lower oil pan.
  • Remove upper oil pan.
  • Use the oil pan from a 3.5 DE motor…but remove the windage tray. Add your o-rings and seals, and install upper oil pan onto the HR motor.
  • Remove the HR water pump access cover, and replace it with the one from the DE motor
  • Alternator bracket
  • Belt tensioner bracket

Adjusting the Cam Signal Trigger Wheel

*Please note that we now offer a completely bolt on trigger wheel that eliminates the need to modify your stock trigger wheels*

If you choose to modify your stock trigger wheels, please note that this is a VERY important step and it must be done very carefully for your car to run properly. You have to be extremely accurate.

Apart from the wiring, adjusting the signal wheel is the most detailed work you need to do on the swap. It is important to be very accurate when cutting or grinding, and it’s also extremely important to assemble everything correctly at the end of this step. Pay close attention to the pictures and make sure that your work looks EXACTLY the same!

*You will need to modify your 5/16 Allen key by cutting the arm down so that it is approximately 3/8″ long. This is your ‘special tool’ that you will need to use in this part of the swap.

  • Open one of the valve covers.
  • Using the ‘special tool’, loosen the signal wheel lock nut and remove the signal wheel from the intake cam:
  • Completely remove the inner nubs from the signal wheel without damaging the rest of the inner surface:
  • Add Loctite to the flat inner surface of the signal wheel:
  • Reconnect the modified signal wheel to the intake cam…be sure to place it at the proper angle (as shown below) and resecure the lock nut:
  • Close and bolt down the valve cover
  • Open the other valve cover, and repeat these same steps.

V2 Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

V2 inverters are single channel. One inverter is required for each camshaft position sensor.

Wiring for cam sensor signal inverter

  • Red wire – 12 volt power supply ( power going into the board )
  • Black wire – Ground
  • Orange wire – Signal out ( connects to existing wire on ecu side )

Picture below demonstrates the older style DE cam sensor plug that is cut off when wiring in inverter with required wiring

V1 Cam Sensor Signal Inverter Wiring

The wiring harness in your car needs to be connected to the newer motor, and it’s not just a ‘plug-and-play’ situation. These diagrams show you the changes that need to be made to make your DE harness control your HR motor:

** THESE WIRE CONNECTIONS ARE CRITICAL. MAKE SURE THAT THEY ARE CONNECTED CORRECTLY (ACCORDING TO THE INSTRUCTIONS), AND SECURELY. TWISTING THEM TOGETHER IS NOT GOOD ENOUGH. **

The stock cam signal wire will be intercepted (cut) by the cam signal inverter supplied with the swap kit. There are six wires on the cam signal inverter…here’s how you connect them:

  • the RED wire goes to a 5v source from your car’s harness (to supply power to the sensor)
  • the BLACK wire is ground

For Cam #1…cut the existing wire:

  • the YELLOW inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the ORANGE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

For Cam #2…cut the existing wire:

  • the BLUE inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the CAM side
  • the GREEN inverter wire connects to the existing wire on the ECU side

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my3rdgen 89-94

Gustavo’s R34 Skyline Inspired Custom VE30DE 5-Speed 1993 3rd Gen Nissan Maxima

Owner: Gustavo Castillo Jr

Year: 1993
Model: White
Color:  Custom
Engine: VE30DE
Transmission: 5-Speed Manual
Trim: SE

Its not a skyline by any means even if I did put the motor and transmission in it. It’s just a Maxima customized in a way others never attempted to do. I have no skyline badges on it as I had all badges shaved. To me my car is my baby Fantasma.

Mod List:

  • VE30DE Engine
  • 5-Speed Manual Transmission
  • OBX Headers
  • EGR Delete
  • eBay Cold Air Intake
  • 300ZX NA Catalytic Converter
  • Hayame DTX Muffler
  • Eibach Lowering Springs
  • Nissan Skyline GTR R34 Wheels w/ 235/45/R18 Ties
  • Slotted and Drilled Rotors
  • Premium Ceramic Brake Pads

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my4thgen 95-99

4thgen Nissan Maxima – Identifying Models and Trim Levels (Differences)

The 4th gen Maxima was offered in three trim levels for the US market:

  • GXE “The essential Maxima”
  • SE “The Sportiest Maxima”
  • GLE “The luxurious Maxima”

All trim levels have the same engine, so performance differences between them are pretty much nil. The best way to tell which trim level you have is to decode the VIN Plate. This is due to much part swapping and trim upgrading, even transmission swaps that can be done.

TO DECODE THE VIN PLATE:
Raise your hood. Look for a shiny metal identification tag fastened to the passenger side of firewall. The top row is the Vehicle Identification Number, starting with J. The second row is model information. The first five characters are BLHUL. The sixth character is the trim level designator, defined as follows:
E = GXE
G = GLE
V = SE

There are some feature differences that can help you determine the trim level on site. Keep in mind that most of these can be changed aftermarket by the owner, but as we know the VAST majority of Maximas on the street are bone stock.

GXE

  • Black gauge faces
  • Cloth seats
  • Basic stereo (BOSE optional but extremely rare)
  • Probably no sunroof (optional but very rare)
  • Chrome outer window trim and door handles
  • 5spd or Auto trans
  • No spoiler
  • No fog lights
  • Steel wheels with hubcaps
  • Chrome grill on 97-99 models
  • Manual A/C

SE

  • White gauge faces
  • “Sport” Cloth or leather seats
  • Basic or BOSE stereo
  • May have sunroof
  • Black outer window trim
  • Body-color door handles
  • 5spd or auto trans
  • Spoiler
  • Fog lights
  • 15″ blade-style (95-96) or 16″ 5 spoke (97-99) alloy wheels
  • Body-color grill on 97-99 models
  • Manual A/C or climate control
  • “Sport” suspension
  • Electronically controlled front engine mount on automatic transmission cars
  • Liquid filled rear shock mounts
  • (In Canada there is a model called the ES which is like an SE minus the BOSE, leather, sunroof, and spoiler (All standard on a Canadian SE). But, it does include the VLSD trans.)

GLE

  • Black guage faces
  • Leather seats
  • BOSE stereo
  • Sunroof
  • Chrome outer window trim and door handles
  • Auto trans only
  • No spoiler
  • No fog lights
  • 15″ honeycomb (95-96) or 15″ blade-style (97-99) alloy wheels
  • Chrome grill on 97-99 models
  • Fake wood color dash and door trim
  • Fuzzy A-pillars on some years
  • Pop-out drawer (not flip-down) below radio on some years
  • Climate control only
  • Electronically controlled front engine mount
  • Liquid filled rear shock mounts

Keep in mind that spoilers, foglights, mudflaps and wood dash trim could be had as dealer-installed options on all levels.

Other options like heated seats, traction control, ABS and the like were offered on more than one trim level, so they are not a reliable indicator.

What are the differences between the 99 SE and the 99.5 SE-Limited (SE-L)?
Approx. early to midyear of ’99, a version of the SE called the SE Limited debuted, with only these differences to the ’99 SE

  • “SE Limited” badging by driver and front passenger doors
  • Titanium tinted wheels, gauges and “MAXIMA” badging
  • Optional Perforated Leather seats
  • Unique Crimson Blaze Red color as available color selection
  • “SE Limited” logo embossed on floor mats & seats

It is largely believed that these were produced to get rid of remining A32 engines, parts, and shells. Evidence to support this is the fact that the SE-L could be equipped like every different trim of a Maxima, with the only commonality being the “Limited” traits listed above.

What makes the Infiniti I30 so special?

The Infiniti I30 is really just a dressed up Maxima. Personally, I think it is what the Maxima should/could have been. Anyway…

The I30 has the same drivetrain and suspension components as the Maxima. This means that all the engine and suspension mods for the Max will fit the I30. There is one critical difference with regard to transmissions, however. I30s equipped with the 5spd manual transmission have a VLSD. We all know why this is good.

As far as the exterior is concerned, the only panels shared between the cars are the doors and the roof.

The I30 includes all the features of the Maxima GLE plus:

  • Auto dimming mirror
  • Wood trim on the climate control panel
  • Chrome interior door handles
  • Electric fuel door release
  • Seatback pockets on the front seats
  • Rear seat headrests
  • One-piece rear floor mat (it covers the “hump” and has a logo in the middle)
  • Higher quality leather
  • Items like heated seats, sunroof, homelink, and leather were optional. It is very rare to find an I30 without a sunroof or leather. There was also an option called the Infiniti Communicator that was a built-in cell phone system.

What options were standard and available on the Maxima?

All Maximas come very well equipped with Power windows/locks/mirrors, cruise control, intermittent wipers, 8 way adjustable seat, remote trunk release, rear defroster, Etc. The SE trim level adds white faced gauges, spoiler, fog lights and alloy wheels. The GLE trim level has everything in the ‘S&C’ and ‘Leather trim’ packages described below and the same alloy wheels found on the 95-96 SE.

Options where grouped into three packages, Security and Convenience (S&C), SE Leather trim, and Cold weather/Deluxe Seating. The S&C package required an Automatic transmission for the GXE and a sunroof for the SE except the 95 model. The Cold weather package required the S&C package and ABS brakes except for the 95 model. The ‘cold weather package’ was renamed the ‘deluxe seating package’ in 98 and added side airbags and dropped the ABS requirement.

Security and Convenience Package (S&C)
* 8-way power driver’s seat
* Remote keyless entry and vehicle security system
* Integrated HomeLink Transmitter (SE only)
* Power trunk release
* Illuminated visor vanity mirrors
* Variable intermittent wipers

SE Leather Trim Package
* Leather seating surfaces
* Automatic temperature control
* 4-way power front passenger’s seat
* Simulated leather upper door trim
* Passenger-side seatback pocket

95-97 Cold Weather Package
* Heated front seats
* Heated outside mirrors
* Low windshield-washer fluid warning light
* Heavy-duty battery

98-99 Deluxe Seating Package
* Front seat side air bags
* Heated front seats
* Heated outside mirrors
* Low windshield-washer fluid warning light
* Heavy-duty battery

What are the year to year differences on 4th Gen (95-99) Maximas?

All 4th gen Maximas have the same engine and are basically the same. There are some claims that the earlier 4th gens are slightly more powerful due to less emissions equipment and faster due to being slightly lighter but if there is any speed/power difference it is minimal. Most of these differences where collected from this thread, if you have any additions or corrections please post them there.

Any options or changes continue to the next year unless they are noted to be removed or noted for only one year. The list below is pretty detailed but I did not include every tiny detail to try to keep it readable, check the thread linked above for more details.

1995 – 1st year 4th gen. Rear oxygen sensor in cat. Only year GXE could have S&C package and 5 speed transmission. Only year SE could get S&C package without sunroof. SE came with 15″ ‘Sawblade’ style rims, GLE had 15″ ‘Honeycomb’ Rims.

1996 – revised emissions equipment, new cup holder, power passenger seat available (with leather package). Only year removable in console cup holder available (but most used Maxes no longer have it). Last year GLE came with ‘fuzzy’ pillars (A.B,C)

1997 – Restyled front and rear (front now has crossbar on grill, rear now has turn signals below taillights), improved crash protection, new steering wheel, 16″ 5 spoke wheels on SE, Homelink on GLE and SE with S&C package, SE got orange Gauge needles. Two new steering wheel designs, one for GXE/GLE and one exclusive to SE. New center console – two drink cupholder with hinged lid, lose change holder, lose ashtray in back, lower armrest. New design of double din headunit. Tweeters moved from the A-pillar trim to the door. Cornering lamps removed. Rear oxygen sensor moved behind cat to b-pipe, B-pipe made longer. Rear emblem changed from individual letters to connected letters — M A X I M A, to M_A_X_I_M_A. GLE trim got GLE badge on trunk. GLE gets the 15″ sawblade rims that where on the 95-96 SE.

1998 – Side air bags available (with deluxe seating package), ‘Cold weather package’ replaced by ‘Deluxe seating package’, orange gauge needles on all trim levels (95-97 GXE/GLE had white needles), digital odometer (with two trip meters), climate control redesign, Fuel and temp. Gauges now ‘Mirror image’ instead of facing the same direction. ‘Low Fuel’ light moved from gas gauge to strip of warning lights, ‘Air-bag warning’ light moved from strip of lights to bottom of speedometer, ‘X1000 RPM’ moved from bottom of tachometer to center.

1999 – Emissions equipment and ECU wiring similar to 5th gen models, SE limited edition available, security chip in key, head unit redesign, ‘ambient temperature’ feature added to automatic climate control, three point seat belt for rear center position. Only year traction control was available.

On CA emission 99’s Front pre-cat built into header, two extra oxygen sensors to monitor pre-cats (total of 4), Swirl valve in intake to improve emissions. Special aftermarket Y-pipe required and only 1 pre-cat can be removed.

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my4thgen 95-99

4thgen Nissan Maxima VQ30DE Timing Cover Removal Tip

Community Member Credit: CS_AR

In viewing several internet postings and videos that show how to remove a VQ30DE Timing Cover (TC). Unfortunately only a few explain the two bolts inside the oil pan area that are required for TC removal. Next week when I remove another TC on the 99 Max, I will start with removing by removing the bolts inside the oil pan.

The first picture shows how the engine looks with the timing cover removed and the inside area where the two bolts connect with the cover with the two yellow arrows.

This picture shows the bolts from looking inside the oil pan area from below the engine. I removed one bolt (left) before I snapped the picture.

This picture shows the bolts from looking inside the oil pan area from below the engine. I removed one bolt (left) before I snapped the picture.

I hope this helps another VQ30DE owner in the future. If you need to remove the timing chains to remove the rear timing cover, remember to position it at Top Dead Center before you start.

The Half Moon gasket appears to be “glued” to the TC with a brown RTV looking material that is different from the gray RTC used to seal other engine components. It appears Half Moon gasket is so well bonded with the timing cover in the picture that will need to be separated with a scraper.

When you get the TC off, it is a good practice to get everything lined up on top dead center (TDC) with the gold link, the crankshaft mark, and the dowel marks. The first time I took the TC off of Max III’s first engine, I found the camshaft chain color links were opposite for each cam. It doesn’t really make a difference if you find your camshaft chains links like the picture.

The FSM goes into detail about TDC alignment.

The main point is to get everything lined up on TDC before you start working with the guides or water pump. If something goes wrong and the chain jumps a notch, you know how everything should be lined up. I like to use my own markings once I’ve found TDC so it is easier to recover if the chain jumps a notch.

My first big car project was to replace the timing chain guides on a VH45DE. That was a great experience.

One thing I learned on that project was to zip tie the chains to keep them from slipping when replacing the guides. If you think you might have some chain slack while working with the tensioner, guides, or water pump, you use a big zip tie or some mechanics wire to pull out the slack so the chain won’t jump.

Additional Reference Photos

 

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my5thgen 00-03

2002-2003 6-Speed 5thgen Nissan Maxima M-Pact Clutch Review

Community Member Credit: uptownsamcv

Recently I installed a SE-R spec V H-LSD along with a JWT flywheel and decided to try the M-Pact clutch components they sell on www.rockauto.com. The latest year Z that they list separate pressure plate and disc for is 2006, which should be good enough for bolt-ons and ECU reflash for 02 Maxima.

The pressure plate part number is M-PACT 98630 which is also their pressure plate listed for 02-06 Maxima. The disc part number is M-Pact 99688D which is their general sprung organic disc for many other Nissans and G35. I went with a National throw-out bearing and pilot bearing this time.

After putting 500 miles of city driving for break-in I finally started getting on it yesterday and it has a lot more bite than the outgoing basic Exedy kit I was running.

I also replaced the flywheel bolts with Allen head bolts with orange Loctite, I hate Torx bolts. Only Fastenal had the Allen head bolts that matched up. JWT instructions called for Loctite red but I don’t think it’s a good idea to use it on a crank. The flywheel will need to come off eventually, mainly when I do the 2nd gen swap.

All the clutch components together ended up costing me $168.97 which isn’t bad, now it’s just a matter of how good it holds up. My lust clutch kit was actually a LUK that came packaged with a LUK dual mass flywheel, not Exedy as I mentioned above. When I first got my car in December of 2012 the throw-out bearing went bad a month later and I had installed an Exedy kit.

  • M-pact pressure plate #98630 $82.79
  • M-Pact friction disc #99688D $60.79
  • National release bearing #614049 $23.79
  • national pilot bushing #PB22 $1.60

I only paid $300 for the 04 Sentra SE-R Spec V donor tranny that I took the Helical LSD out of. it fit right in since it’s the same LSD that comes in some of the 6 speed Maxima’s, I just had to put Maxima’s ring gear on it. I would have swapped the whole gear set as I saw in some write-ups but my tranny doesn’t grind any gears so I kept the stock gears.

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allGens

What Is O/D (Over Drive) Button On My Shift Knob?

Credit: Tamotsu Todoroki
Source: https://www.picknbuy24.com/column_207.html

Have you seen the button located on your shift knob but have no idea what it is or what it does? That button is known as the overdrive (O/D) and regulates the gear system of your automatic vehicle. You might be wondering why such an option exists; you bought an automatic vehicle so that you didn’t have to deal with this type of mechanical jargon, right? Despite the convenience of an automatic vehicle, a little manual work of using the O/D does have a useful purpose and will benefit you financially to learn what it does and how to use it.

So, What Does it Do?

The short answer to what the O/D does is that it saves you money on gas. When the O/D is on, your transmission lowers the revolutions per minute (RPMs) of the engine to make it work less to achieve the same job. You’ll notice that if you drive 10 miles going up hill, your vehicle is forced to put in a lot of effort. As a result your gas will be eaten up a lot faster than if you were driving on a flat road for the same 10 miles. Less work equals better fuel economy.

You may be wondering why your car has this option but some of your friend’s cars do not. Many of the newer vehicles being produced are no longer being built with these overdrive buttons, but they do still have these features installed; instead newer vehicles automatically turn on the overdrive usually when the speed exceeds 45 miles per hour. Just because your vehicle has a physical button doesn’t mean that it is difficult or complex to use, most of the time it’s as simple as turning on the radio.

How Do I Turn O/D On?

The primary setting on your automatic vehicle is to use this function whenever possible; therefore, pressing the overdrive button will actually turn the cars’ overdrive function off. It is recommended that whenever you are driving your vehicle that you leave the overdrive on. Whenever overdrive is on, you are saving money on gasoline because your car is being more efficient and doing more with less.

If It Saves Me Money, Why Would I Turn it Off?

Vehicle manufactures include this O/D function for the purpose of towing and climbing hills. When your vehicle is taking part in a strenuous activity, you want to utilize the full power of your vehicle by increasing its torque. Increasing the torque and allowing your vehicle to operate with its full potential will decrease the damage that could be caused on your vehicle from towing and generating heat.

What Are RPMs and Torque and How Does O/D Affect These?

Revolutions per minute, or the RPMs, are the total 360o rotations that an engine crankshaft can perform within 60 seconds. You’ve probably seen the RPM meter on your dashboard; this meter can be detected by a portion of the meter shaded in red. The red color indicated what is essentially the “danger zone,” or a level that you should not go above without shifting into a higher gear. The higher the RPMs, the harder your car is working to perform the speed and power that you desire. O/D is a little bit like a manual regulator telling your car to take it easy.

Horsepower can be calculated by multiplying your total RPMs and the torque of the vehicle. If your vehicle is running in overdrive, the RPMs will be lower, and therefore the vehicle will have less power. When this O/D option is disengaged the power of the vehicle will increase. That means that whenever you are in need of an extra boost, turn your overdrive off, but otherwise do your best to leave it alone.

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my4thgen 95-99

Motor Trend’s Article on the ’96 SMX – Steve Millen Design SMX

Credit: Motor Trend

IMSA driving ace Steve Millen’s Stillen operation has a long history of squeezing extra urge out of Nissan products, so it’s little wonder that the Maxima SE sport sedan inspired Millen to create something special.

Called the SMX, this modified Maxima has key improvements concocted to elevate performance but keep the cost and complexity quite reasonable. The SMX can be ordered directly through Nissan dealers, transformed at Millen’s Costa Mesa, California, facility, or constructed piece by piece in your own garage.

An engine-management computer upgrade along with breathing help on the intake and exhaust side of the 3.0-liter V-6 bring the estimated crankshaft horsepower to 224 (up from a claimed 190 horses stock). Dyno figures notwithstanding, the SMX’s acceleration times barely budged from stock numbers. The 0-60-mph sprint times took 6.7-seconds, followed up by a 15.1-second, 92.2-mph quarter-mile run.

Far more tangible are the advances on the handling front, where the SMX enjoys meaty improvements in every performance measure. The Yokohama-wrapped 17-inch MOMO wheels combine with shorter progressive-rate springs to transform the Maxima. Ultimate skidpad grip jumped from 0.83 g stock to 0.90 g, and the slalom speed increased by 3.6 mph to a steamy 68.7 mph. Berserk laps around the racetrack revealed no evil habits, just predictable manners and substantially higher limits. Only the $100,000-plus RENNTech E60 was capable of lapping faster. The SMX’s stock Nissan dampers were a touch slushy on the track, but allow the car to retain much of its comfortable ride compliance.

Stillen’s extensive brake work pays off in measured testing and on the track. Nissan 300ZX calipers with metal matrix pads squeeze cross-drilled ZX discs up front; the stock Maxima rear brakes also get the pad and drilling treatment. Stopping distance from 60 mph plummeted from 131 feet to a 111. On the track, the big brakes proved they could do the deed over and over again with minimal fade and maximum control. At racetrack temperatures, though, the binders are prone to squealing. That, however, is the only glitch we discovered in the Stillen. With functional changes totaling less then $5000, the SMX is clearly a cost-effective upgrade for the Maxima SE.

All information shown comes from Motor Trend, December, 1996.

This SMX does not have the engine-management computer upgrade.

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