Owner: Jaime J Dajer
Year: 2002
Model: Maxima
Color: Silver
Transmission: 4-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE
Highlights: This is a one-of-a-kind 5thgen Nissan Maxima with a RIPP Mods supercharger fabricated to fit the VQ35DE. It is using a R.I.P.P V5 supercharger kit that came off a Mitsubishi Eclipse GT V6. It’s also using water meth injection. It made 339.7 WHP / 306.3 TQ on 440cc injectors at 98%, ignition retarded timing set at +11, 8 psi and a 2.6 pulley.
Member Credit: Shaquille Keon Jenkins
These are a set of custom fenders on 2003 Nissan Maxima. One-of-a-kind setup. It cost approximately $150 to do and took around 3 weeks (working off and on them). Looks awesome!
Additional Photos of this ride:
Member Credit: Matt Blehm
Please note that this post is for reference and documentation purposes ONLY. Matt Blehm no longer offers these products or services. Products were available from 2003 to around 2009.
Front Big Brake Kit #1–2004 Maxima Rotors with 300ZX calipers: This kit fits all 1989 through 2003 models
Front Big Brake Kit #2–2004 Maxima Rotors with OEM 5th generation calipers: This kit only fits 2000 and 2001 models
REAR Big Brake Kit This kit fits all 1995 through 2003 models!
This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts! Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!
So what’s in this kit?
As noted above, the kit is offered with and without the 300ZX calipers for those of you who already have some, or have a good source for them already. If you’d like me to source them for you, then prices are at the bottom of the page.
What are the benefits to this Big Brake Kit?
You guys already know the benefits of a big brake kit on your car, so I’ll point out the original parts of this kit…
It uses a NISSAN rotor that’s meant to fit on this suspension. The offsets are correct so as not to cause huge wheel clearance issues, the hub bore is a perfect fit, and the wheel stud holes are a perfect fit. It also doesn’t rub on the control arms (at least not on 3rd or 5th gens).
As most of you know, the 300ZX calipers have a plethora of pad selections out there–WAY more than the Maxima does because of the performance enthusiast base. You can go with Raybestos, Wagner, Axxis, or comparable pads for the street for a very reasonable price, or you can bump up to Hawk, Performance Friction, Porterfield, Ferodo, EBC, and many other higher performance pads for track days. If you’re in a pinch and need new pads “NOW!”, simply drive to your nearest parts store and pick some up! They’re extremely handy, as opposed to other aftermarket calipers where you usually have to order pads and wait a week for them to come in! These calipers are also designed for street use in that they have dust seals, pad shims to keep road noise to a minimum, easily obtainable rebuild kits, and all the other low maintenance benefits of a caliper designed for years of street use instead of a caliper designed to be rebuilt several times per race season.
The rotors are currently available through OEM sources (dealer), and you can also get blank, slotted, crossdrilled, or slotted and drilled from www.irotors.com. You have all kinds of choices and I will leave that up to you, but I DO NOT recommend crossdrilled rotors due to their tendency to crack. There is enough information in thousands of other places on these issues, so I won’t bother repeating them.
What wheels will these fit under?
I have tried this kit with several wheels so you can get an indication of what will fit…. These kits DO NOT FIT UNDER THE STOCK 17″ Maxima wheels! So far, every aftermarket 17″ and 18″ wheel I have tried will fit, but the 17s get close on spoke clearance–depending on wheel design. I am currently trying to compile a database of all of the wheels that fit these kits to give you an idea, but the best way is to simply measure for yourself. I make no claims to wheel fittment, but for a general guess on if they will fit or not, use these measurements:
Measure 5 1/4″ out from the center of the wheel to one of your spokes. Now measure the distance from the surface of your stock rotors. If you have at least 2 1/2″ of clearance here, then you should be fine with the kit. I can tell you for certain that 300ZX (Z32) wheels will NOT fit without a 1/2″ spacer.
The installed kit:
For those that want to see more up close pics showing caliper clearance around the wheel and spokes, click here
And now for the part you’re really interested in–prices!
Complete Kit: $765 + shipping
This kit is ready to bolt on, with the exception of brake fluid. This kit includes:
Basic kit: $440 + shipping
Note that this kit does NOT include the required calipers. I can get them if you wish, or you can supply them yourself. This kit includes:
Kit without Rotors: $200 + shipping
This is for those who want to source rotors, calipers, and pads themselves. This kit includes:
Want me to source the 300ZX calipers for you? If so, then I can source just about anything you want:
This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts! Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!
What is this kit designed for?
This kit is designed for the average “spirited” driver to alleviate the rotor warpage issues that are so common on 5th Gen Maximas. It’s also an extremely affordable way to improve the cosmetics of your car if you’re running larger wheels. The factory brakes just look too small under 18″ and 19″ wheels! The other goal was to make them fit under the factory 17″ wheels–which this kit does with ease!
Not many BBKs will allow get anywhere near the price of this kit, nor will there be easily available replacement parts when it’s time to replace pads or rotors.
I tried this kit with several wheels, so you can get an indication of what will fit: So far, every 17″ and 18″ wheel I have tried will fit, but the 17s get close on rim clearance–depending on wheel design. I make no claims to wheel fittment, but I would say it’s safe to assume that most 17″ wheels will fit, and sure any 18″ wheel will also.
Here are several pictures of the kit, installed on Mike Hill’s gorgeous 2000 Maxima:
And now for the part you’re really interested in–prices!
Ready to Install Kit: $365 + shipping
This includes:
Complete kit, without rotors: $150 + shipping.
This includes:
This kit uses easy-to-find, off the shelf ALL Nissan parts! That way the next time you warp a rotor, or wear out the pads at an Auto X, track event, etc…you can just go to the local parts store and pick up replacement parts! Not many BBKs will allow you to do that!
What is it?
Z32 300ZX REAR calipers and rotors built to fit 4th and 5th gen Maximas.
What are the benefits to this Rear Big Brake Kit?
You guys already know the benefits of a big brake kit on your car, so I’ll point out the original parts of this kit…
Many of you that have purchased Big Brake Kits for the front notice a front brake bias problem now. This is safer than having a large rear bias, but it is not the best performing. The rear brakes are tiny and just aren’t up to the task once you’ve upgraded the front brake system. They also look like go kart brakes behind the larger 17″,18″,and 19″ wheels that many owners are using now!
This kit, when paired with most front brake kits, will return the brake bias to within 3% of the factory front/rear bias. In my experiences, this has provided the best overall braking–nearly zero nose dive when you’re on the brakes hard, but you can still brake into corners without locking up the back end.
As most of you know, the 300ZX calipers have a plethora of pad selections out there–WAY more than the Maxima does because of the performance enthusiast base. You can go with Raybestos, Wagner, Axxis, or comparable pads for the street for a very reasonable price, or you can bump up to Hawk, Performance Friction, Porterfield, Ferodo, EBC, and many other higher performance pads for track days. If you’re in a pinch and need new pads “NOW!”, simply drive to your nearest parts store and pick some up! They’re extremely handy, as opposed to other aftermarket calipers where you usually have to order pads and wait weeks for them to come in! These calipers are also designed for street use in that they have dust seals, pad shims to keep road noise to a minimum, easily obtainable rebuild kits, and all the other low maintenance benefits of a caliper designed for years of street use instead of a caliper designed to be rebuilt several times per race season.
You can also purchase rotors at just about any aftermarket or OEM dealer. They have a huge selection of finish, slotting and drilling, and cryo treating options.
How?
For those of you that are familiar with the Z32 brakes, they use an internal drum-type parking brake–as almost all other high performance brake systems do now. This makes caliper maintenance and pad changes extremely quick and easy, but this is also what makes designing a rear brake kit for this car very challenging. I have designed and built a rear drum-type parking brake to fit inside the Z32 rotor, and that’s what this kit is based upon.
Will this work with front Big Brake Kits from another company?
Some of the other kits out there (Stillen, Fastbrakes, Precision, etc) use different piston sizes in their calipers that will affect brake bias considerably. Please check with me before purchasing and be ready to do some measuring of your calipers (or have the part numbers ready for the calipers so I can look them up.) I have talked with Fastbrakes and confirmed the piston sizes on their calipers–their systems will work wonderfully with my rear BBK. I have yet to confirm this with other kits.
If you buy this kit for other front systems, the worst you will have to do is install a $50 brake bias adjuster from Wilwood or Tilton to make this kit run on your car. Simply be very careful about locking up the rear brakes until you have adjusted the bias to fit your system.
How Much does it cost, and what do I need?
I have set the price on my parts so that the entire setup should cost you under $1000 for everything needed to install the kit on the car. I will send you everything needed EXCEPT rear calipers, rotors, and brake fluid, which you will be able to purchase from the sources below and come out under $1000 total.
The parts I will supply are the parking brake assemblies (including custom backing plate and bracket), replacement parking brake cables (your original cables will not work), 6061 aluminum caliper relocation bracket, all fasteners and hardware required for installation, and custom rear DOT approved stainless steel brake lines made to fit this setup.
The parts you need to supply are 300ZX rotors and calipers, pads, and brake fluid. Rotors: Feel free to purchase them from any place you like, but I highly recommend IRotors.com You will need to purchase a pair of REAR rotors from a 1990-1996 300ZX.
Calipers: You can find them quite often on Ebay for under $100 a pair. Any 1990-1996 300ZX TT or N/A rear calipers will work–they’re all the same. If you purchase them used, I highly suggest rebuilding them. You can buy a rebuild kit from Orielly’s Auto Parts, Pep Boys, Autozone, etc for under $10. Many auto parts stores also carry remanufactured calipers for a reasonable cost. In Houston, they are about $100 each without core, $60 each with core.
Now for some Pics!
So what’s the total price from BlehmCo?
You will send me $720 plus shipping for the parts you need from me. Shipping usually runs about $20 for anyone in the main 48 states. CA, AK, and HI are more, but I am more than happy to ship worlwide! You will still need to purchase rotors, calipers, pads, and fluid. This should run you less than $250, which puts you at just under $1000 for the entire rear brake kit!
I can also do powdercoating for $100 per pair on calipers. Please expect a few weeks of lead time if I have to order powder or calipers for you.
Member Credit: secondtonone317 (R.I.P)
This build was completed in July of 2009 by Bishnu. May he sleep in peace.
Well, I been busy and didn’t have time to drop this motor back in the car until. I have been working on it for the past month or so. Most of the work was done solo but I did need some help on a few things and some friends helped out, like mating the tranny and motor. (shout out to Mike, lol)
Started with:
Painted pipes before wrapping
NWP TQ Link
Did the whole front end in ES bushings…..pain in the ***
Half size radiator installed
Got boost?
Reclocked
Best FMU location ever
RG45 gate
Closer look, open dump
Getting there
Filter installed. I will endup running this filter into the fender and putting the maf before the turbo inlet because the way I fabbed up the charge pipes there is no room for the MAF on the charged side because of taking up some space for three 1/8npt taps……
BC for this year
Meth kit behind the bumper, going to run a dual nozzle setup. I will also tune for meth and need to be 100% positive it is spraying. That LED light just doesn’t cut it for me so I bought a cheap electric fuel pressure gauge that I will use to monitor my meth pressure……
FMIC, not too visible behind the 5.5gen bumper but should get lots of air.
You can see the charge pipe from the turbo to the intercooler here, very short!!!
After completed I will have very short charge pipes.
So, thats where I am at presently. All I need are a few couplings that are on order and I need to weld the downpipe in one spot because I had to cut it.
I also need to do some things like a 3in catback, fab up some support brackets for the turbo, wrap the rest of pipes, etc, etc
Here’s a lil rendering of the pipes once finished.
3in mandrel bent catback from Tesh, cost effective functionality
Final piping setup
Member Credit: Shaun Guinn
This is a 2006-2013 Lexus IS250 Type V Rear Diffuser installed on a 7thgen Nissan Maxima. It was custom molded onto the rear bumper. Looks awesome!
Member Credit: Matt Blehm
Please note that this post is for reference and documentation purposes ONLY. Matt Blehm no longer offers these products or services. Products were available from 2003 to around 2009.
This part is designed to tie the front suspension together to provide sharper steering response and better handling overall.
These parts are powdercoated black. If you would like other colors, I can do it, but buyer will be responsible for additional charges.
Stage I
This is a bar that ties together the bolts on the front lower control arm gussets, providing sharper steering response and less chassis flex in corners. Handling improvements are very similar to installing a strut tower brace, which you can also add on the top of the suspension to tie the front end together really well!
The only drawback is that you lose a bit of ground clearance- but since it sits between the front wheels, the only time you might have a problem is when driving over extremely uneven surfaces. I have had the Stage II bar (see below) on my car for six months now and have only scraped it three times- all of which could have been prevented had I been paying more attention while going over extremely rough roads.
The price for the Stage I lower tie bar is $65, plus shipping- a VERY worthwhile and affordable mod!
Stage II
This one is a bit more complex. It bolts onto an additional frame mount behind the control arms to provide more strength and reduce chassis flex even more. You don’t lose any more ground clearance, but you do gain several more steps up the ladder in the handling department.
For 3rd gens, this requires a small amount of grinding on the left side gusset to fit, but does not alter or weaken the structure of the car at all–you simply have to enlarge one hole by about 2mm for one of the mounting points to fit properly. For 4th and 5th gens, this is a simple 15 minute install (assuming you have air tools and a jack).
Current fittments WILL Clear all aftermarket Y-pipes (Warpspeed Performance, Cattman, Stillen), but will NOT clear the Cattman headers on the 4th gen. I’m working with a customer in redesigning the 4th gen bar so that it will fit. If you have these headers or plan to purchase them, stay tuned and I’ll have a design that fits.
Price on the Stage II Lower Tie Bar is $175, plus shipping.
4th Gen Stage II Lower Tie Bar
5th Gen Stage II Lower Tie Bar
B14 Stage II Lower Tie Bar
Rear Strut Tower Brace: For 89-94 Maxima
Exactly what it says it is!! You’ve seen them on 4th gens, you’ve seen them on Sentras, you’ve seen them on every car BUT a 3rd gen! I argued for years that they wouldn’t do anything, but I decided to build one not long ago, and boy was I wrong!!
Pricing: $100 each, plus shipping. (This isn’t your $29 ebay fstb!!)
Rear Parallel Link Replacement Kit: For 89-94 Maxima
Another crazy mod for your 3rd Gen!
This is a mod only for the hardcore guys out there. It’s rough and it’s tough, and it’ll (almost) hang with a Miata in the twisties!! These do add some road noise over gravel roads at low speeds, but the ride quality doesn’t change between these and stock bushings. I notice no additional highway noise, and the ride is MUCH smoother than with my worn bushings in the rear.
This kit also allows you to adjust Camber AND Caster in the back!
This kit replaces both rear parallel links and radius rods on both sides, for a total of 6 bars, 12 Heim joints, and all the bushings you’ll need to install them properly.
I can get the tubes in zinc plated (pictured), or black. I can powdercoat them just about any color you want as well, so contact me if you’d like some other colors.
This kit is priced at a VERY reasonable $375 for the set. Again, the second picture shows just one side, but you do get both. The joints used in this kit are very high quality– they have teflon lining injected into them so they should never need lubricating and will never rattle like the cheap ones.
Okay, so what is it exactly? I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves:
Rear Sway Bar Links:
89-94 Maxima
Tired of your rear sway bar links breaking, clanking, and rattling? Here’s the solution! These are made from all high-strength materials. 1/2″ aluminum bottom plate, grade 8 mounting hardware, and the heim joint on top is permanently lubed with kevlar/teflon injected into the joint. Guaranteed not to break! Overkill to say the least, but you don’t want these to break AGAIN, do you?
Price for the Maxima kit is $45 + shipping–includes all hardware pictured for both sides of the car.
1st Generation Altima
I have some Energy Suspension Sway Bar Bushings on the way as well and will be selling these as complete front and rear kit when they come in. Final pricing will be determined later.
This was an interesting setup. It was described as a death-trap given how it was built INSIDE THE CAR. No one knows how much power this thing made.
Member Credit: Voltaire Caçal
This is a fully custom setup. Looks like it came from the factory given all the quality fabrication. Amazing job!
Member Credit: Mike Mcivor
Member Credit: Mike Mcivor
I purchased the fabric from Amazon. It is Diamond stitch vinyl and used 5 yards to cover everything. Used 3M spray glue from home depot. The black suede headliner also came from amazon. This entire setup cost right under $300.00.
Amazon Item Description: 1 X Vinyl Quilted Black Fabric w/ 3/8″ Foam Backing Upholstery By the Yard
Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0055TXH2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_QWm7zb5GQYJ3T
