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my4thgen 95-99

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Credit: Christopher Cruz aka RETROFITS-R-US

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. OEM RX330 shrouds.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Morimoto MH1 low and high beam projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds. Side emitting LED strips facing the projectors.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Projectors re-aimed. Shrouds re-mounted. New headlight lenses added.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Infinity J30 low and high beam projectors. No shrouds. Projectors painted flat black.

’95-’99 Maxima “AE” headlights. Infinity J30 low beam projectors. Entire housings painted flat black.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS low beam and J30 high beam projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm on the low beam projectors. GTi-R shrouds. Everything painted satin black.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. No shrouds. Low beam projectors painted flat black.

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. OEM RX330 shrouds.

’96-’99 I30 “Cefiro” headlights. E46 bi-xenon projectors. OEM E46 shrouds. Corner light bulb covers re-mounted. Housings painted flat black. Lens restoration. High beam solenoid conversion.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. eBay low and high beam projectors. White CCFL angel eyes.

Black ’96-’99 I30 “Cefiro” headlights. FX-R 1.1 projectors. E55-R shrouds. Reflectors painted flat black.

’97-’99 Maxima headlights. Morimoto MHI 4.1 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds.

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Morimoto MH1 4.1 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds.

’97-’99 Maxima headlights. Morimoto MH1 4.1 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Morimoto MH1 4.1 low and high beam projectors. Mini Graphite shrouds. High beam projectors mounted.

’00-’01 Maxima “AE” headlights. FX-R 3.0 projectors. Apollo shrouds. White CCFL angel eyes.

’97-’99 Maxima headlights. FX-R 3.0 projectors. E46-R shrouds. “AE’d” housings.

’97-’99 Maxima headlights. FX-R 3.0 projectors. E46-R shrouds.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Morimoto MH1 5.0 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds. Low beam reflectors painted flat black.

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. FX35 low and J30 high beam projectors. Apollo shrouds. FX-R clear lenses on the low beam projectors. Lexus yellow fog capsules in high beam projectors. Projectors painted flat black. High beam lens holders polished.

’97-’99 Maxima headlights. Morimoto MH1 5.0 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds.

’97-’99 Maxima headlights. Morimoto MH1 5.0 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds.

Black ’96-’99 I30 “Cefiro” headlights. FX-R 1.1 projectors. E55 shrouds.

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Infinity J30 low and high beam projectors. No shrouds. Projectors painted flat black.

Gloss black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Morimoto MH1 5.0 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds. High beam reflectors painted yellow.

’02-’03 Maxima headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. Gatling Gun shrouds.

Black ’96-’99 I30 “Cefiro” headlights. FX-R 3.0 projectors. Apollo 2.0 shrouds. White XBLED angel eyes.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Morimoto MH1 6.0 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds. Morimoto XBLED white angel eyes.

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. J30 low and high beam projectors. Apollo shrouds. Projectors painted flat black.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. No shrouds. Low beam projectors painted flat black.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. FX35 low beam projectors. FX35 shrouds. Projectors painted flat black. Insides cleaned and polished thoroughly. One broken mounting bolt replaced. Projector bowls and lenses cleaned. Shrouds cleaned and remounted. Headlight lenses hand polished. Headlights resealed with OEM butyl. Vent tubes made of PVC pipe.

Black ’00-’01 Maxima halo headlights. OEM ’02-’03 Maxima amber signal lenses added. Replica ’02-’03 Maxima clearance light lenses added. Halos removed. High beams painted yellow.

’95-’99 Maxima glass “AE” headlights. Morimoto MD2S 3.0 projectors. Iris shrouds. Morimoto XBLED amber angel eyes. Insides cleaned and polished thoroughly.

Chrome ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. Gatling Gun shrouds. Switchback LED rope added.

Black ’95-’99 Maxima “R34” headlights. Lexus RX-AFS projectors. TSX-R clear lenses spaced 1mm. Gatling Gun 2.0 shrouds. Low beam projectors painted flat black. Morimoto XBLED white rings behing the shrouds.

Chrome ’96-’99 I30 “Cefiro” headlights. Morimoto MH1 6.0 projectors. Mini Gatling Gun shrouds. Morimoto XA LED angel eyes.

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Credit: Josh Go Hard Neal

Part Description: SIDE MIRROR SWITCH ASSEMBLY
Part Number: 25570-4M410
Price: $27.00 – $35.00

  • Sharing what I found upon my search for a OEM switch to control power folding side mirrors.
    This was installed on my 04 i35.
  • My 98 Max I used the generic push button switch that came with the mirrors.
  • Switch works for mirror adjustment as it should but orientation of switch is vertical vs horizontal as you will see in vid.
  • Also the power fold switch is a rocker switch so if ya want to use a aftermarket rocker switch that will work fine like what Eddy Perez shared https://www.my4dsc.com/universal-toggle-switch-for-cefiro-mirrors/
  • Nissanparts.cc was the cheapest I found and it’s just a Nissan dealer in WA which had the best price vs other dealers if ya Google search the part number 25570-4M410.

This appears to come from OEM ’99-’02 Nissan S15 Power Mirror Control Switch.

Videos:

New OEM Switch 25570-4M410

Generic Switch that comes with Mirrors

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Member Credit: MAXSE5SPD

REQUIRED PARTS

  • 02+ 6spd maxima transmission. Sentra spec-v will also work (if you use Maxima bell housing)
  • 5.5 gen 6spd maxima shifter assembly
  • 5.5 gen 6spd maxima shifter cables
  • 6spd drivers side axle
  • 6spd pass axle*
  • 6spd frame trans mount
  • 6spd transmission mount
  • 6spd flywheel
  • 6spd clutch
  • 5spd timing ring
  • 6spd starter
  • 6spd slave cylinder

OPTIONAL PARTS

  • Aftermarket 6spd flywheel with bolt-on timing ring
  • Upgraded clutch
  • Custom 1″ lengthened pass axle
  • Axle seals **
  • Shifter assembly cover
  • Bolt on 5spd timing ring from travis(turbos13hatch)
  • Polyurethane shifter bushings
  • Short throw shifter
  • Stainless steel clutch line

PROCEDURE
I’m not going to go much into detail about removing the 5spd parts because if you are taking on this project, you can handle that.

Install shifter cables– pretty self explanatory, pull off the control cable cover, snake the cables in. I routed them to the pass side, above the ECU. boring out the hole wouldn’t be a bad idea, as it can be hard to move and bend the cables to route them correctly.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

It will be necessary to drill into the cover as the pre-drilled holes wont line up. i got the bottom one but not the top to line up.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

I put dynamat on there to quiet the road noise, and keep water out.

Mount shifter assembly– pretty easy to do also, but it needs to be slightly modified. there are bushings on each of the 4 bolt holes, these bushings must be taking out in front because, if not, the bolts attached to the floor wont be tall enough to be used. you will need to 2 nuts and bolts for the back holes.

Click the image to open in full size.

Taking off the old 5spd mount- the old mount is held on with 8 spot welds, 4 on top and 4 on the side. either drill them out or grind them off.

Install 6spd flywheel– if you chose the route i took, you will take the 6spd cps off your aftermarket, then align that timing ring with your 5spd one from Travis, and drill out the corresponding holes. then reattach the timing ring with the supplied bolts and some blue locktite. since, you are using a 5spd cps, you don’t need to clock the timing ring, so just install the flywheel by aligning the dowel pin and tightening the bolts in a criss-cross pattern, to the torque specs

Correct fidanza maxima flywheel

Click the image to open in full size.

POS XTD 350z flywheel

Click the image to open in full size.

The clutch disk and pp are easy to install, just make sure to clean the pp and flywheel well, and torque the pp to the correct specs in the correct sequence.

Trans mount install- you can either weld this mount to the frame or bolt it to the frame. i decided to bolt it to the frame, because i didn’t have access to a welded. but if you bolt it to the frame, you will need to cut a small, rectangular hole in the outward facing side of the frame to be able to anchor the bolts with the supplied nuts. you will need to install the transmission on the engine to align the mounts. get the transmission on, use a couple bolts to get the trans flush with the block. Reinstall the front cross member if unbolted. bolt on the trans mounted bracket on the transmission, then attach the frame mounted mount with the supplied bolt. then set the frame mount flush on the frame and mark the holes. unbolt both brackets, lower the front cross member, and uninstall the transmission if necessary. drill the holes for the mount. then cut the rectangular hole on the outward facing side of the frame. then tighten the nuts on the bolts, securing the frame mount.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Moving the abs modulator– modulator is bolted to a bracket, that bolts to the inner frame rail. this bracket needs to be gotten rid of. i used zip ties to pull it upwards by the master cylinder.

Click the image to open in full size.

Transmission install– its easiest to do with someone under lifting it up and someone up top helping. the shift assembly should be pushed down and inward, and the shifter cable bracket should be uninstalled to make installation easier. make sure mating surface between block and bell housing is clean, to avoid starter grounding problems. torque the trans bolts to spec and in the proper sequence. reinstall the shift cable bracket. raise the front of the sub frame, so the cables can be attached to the shift assembly using cotter pins and the cables installed in the bracket using the appropriate clips.

Click the image to open in full size.

Attach mount bracket to transmission, then jack up front sub frame, so the 2 mount parts can be joined. torque the front sub frame and the mount bolt to spec.

Starter install– the 6spd starter ground cable is a female connector, so is the connector on the engine harness. i cut both connectors off, and wired them together. then bolted the starter in, and connected up the pos. cable.

Click the image to open in full size.

You can see the heat sink in the lower left of the pic.

Relocating cps– the RWD 6spd flywheel has a different offset than the FWD 6spd flywheel, so the cps hole will need to be enlarged, and a new hole for the bolt will need to be drilled and tapped.

Click the image to open in full size.

sr20den said it was 6.7mm (If I remember correctly). i didn’t actually measure, I drew a line on the bell housing and on the cps, just bored the hole out to the drivers side, until the car would start and run. then mark, drill, and tap the hole.

Here is the what the 6speed flywheel bolts look like. You will need these to bolt most aftermarket flywheels on and maybe the stock one too!

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

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Note:
For what it’s worth, I thought I’d post up pics of the size difference in the 3.0 and 3.5 flywheels: These are Fidanza flywheels. The 3.0 is a little over 11lbs, but the 3.5 actually weighed in at 15.6 according to my scale (2lbs more than the advertized 13.5lbs).

3.5
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3.0

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Undersides, 3.0 on the left

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Offset difference:

Click the image to open in full size.

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Warning, long post but worth it if your a 4th gam Maxima owner!

  • Any of you 4th gen Maxima guys/gals even have your horn just start blowing out of the middle of no where or take the steering wheel air bag off only to find a pile of white plastic pieces everywhere? This is because the plastic insulation parts have deteriorated, cracked, broke and no longer do their job insulating the air bag section from ground. These parts where ever sold separately and the whole steering wheel itself is no longer available through Nissan. I have had multiple Maximas with this same problem so I figured I’d come up with a cheap and reliable solution using parts that are easy to find.
  • Since I work at a car audio shop I figured there has to be a way to use parts normal found at a reputable car audio shop to fix this problem. Here is what you’re going to need; 2 yellow 4ga butt connects, 8 1/4” or bigger plastic spacers, Some 1/4” heat shrink
  • Basically you are going to file/sand down the plastic spacers to less then 1/8”. You don’t want to go too thin. We don’t want them to crack under the pressure of the horn springs. I used a air sander and found it was actually easiest to hold the spacer between two fingers and sand one side at a time. I only sanded my fingers a couple times, LOL. Before you sand four of the spacers you need to drill them out a little, to about 7/16”. You used a step bit and just went slow. Again, we don’t want them to crack. Once you sand those four down you need to cut a slit in them. I simple pair of wire cutters make quick work of this task.
  • Take the four torks bolts that hold the air bag bracket’s off. You are going to cut the heat shrink to the same length as the smooth part of the bolts, you don’t want the heat shrink to cover any of the threads. Side them on and shrink them in place.
  • Next take the four plastic washers you didn’t drill out and slide them onto the bolts. Its going to be a little bit of a tight fit but they will go on.
  • Now take the two 4ga butt connects and press the metal connector out of the middle. We only need the outer insulators. I used a couple of sockets to tap them out. Next you need to cut them in half, making four pieces. You will be left with four pieces, each with a big and small end. Next your going to sand the large end of each piece down so it’s the same size as the smooth part of each bolts that’s left after putting the first washer on. Again, you don’t want them to cover any of the threads. Once done slide these onto the bolts and slide the bolts through the mounting brackets.
  • Next, take the four washers you drilled out and cut and carefully put them over the center insulator by prying them open a bit, being careful not to brake them. I had no problems as they are pretty durable.
    The final step is you are going to have to ”unwind” the spring a bit. They are a little too small to go over the center insulator so unwinding them will make there diameter bigger allowing them to side over the insulator. I took a pair of small pliers and on a few locations around the spring unwound them. Kinda hard to explain but I think you can get the idea here.
  • Now it’s time to reassemble everything. Just make sure the springs are outside the center insulators and you will be all good. This should last the life of your car for only a few dollars.
  • If anyone has any questions feel free to ask!

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