Member Credit: Child_uv_KoRn Bad

Miles are unknown on the motor. I’m gonna say….very low miles. It blew oil vapor out of the crank case for a couple thousand miles, so it’s safe to say she was basically brand new.

I cleaned and window welded the old mounts. I forgot to take pics, but you know how cracked up and falling apart they are at this age. I used the 3M tube and shot it into any cracks then filled up the vacant spots and added a layer on the outsides. Obviously, burning/cutting them up and filling is the best way. I’m cheap and lazy.

I opted for a 4″ grinder with a cutting wheel to do the PS modding (Darren used hack saw, iirc). You can lop off most the bottom ear, then cut slits in both of them and break out the pieces with a chisel. Test fit the pump and you’ll see where it hits the block. Grind off a little more there and you can really make it easy to get the belt off. Grinder makes a lot of mess. Make sure the motor is sealed up good enough (I washed it with a hose afterwards).

UD PS pulley is in the mail. So, ignore this stupid, ugly thing.

DOUBLE CORRECTION Pulleys looked aligned originally, but it’s clearly misaligned. I thought alternator was off compared to the AC/crank pulley, but i was wrong. The compressor is like 4mm off from the crank/alternator on this particular engine (no one elses is like this apparently). It makes the belt squeal when it heats up b/c it’s rubbing on the alty pulley AND rubbing sideways accross tensioner pulley (tried to align the atly between crank and compressor, didn’t work). I resorted to using tiny washers (in retrospect, making a half moon would work) to shim the tensioner pulley to the appropriate angle towards the alty pulley and aligned it with the compressor. I have no idea why my engine is different, but this worked. The belt runs “straight” across the tensioner pulley. I believe Daren just had to shim the alty with a couple washers.

I didn’t have the luxury of the new bracket, so I took a junk piece of metal and made my own connecting to the old bracket. Here’s what it looks like before molesting scrap metal.

Being the lazy *** that I am, I decided to leave the new coolant pipes up top (connector mounts/brackets be damned). The hose already on them works great to bypass the TB coolant asshatery from Nissan.

For the lower pipes, I kept the originals – Por 15’d them and kept the oil cooler thingy, which works out great for the MASSIVE pl-14619 filter. I recommend replacing the oil cooler hoses. Also, replace the oil cooler O ring (it will leak later).

I went kinda crazy on the tensioner. I stacked four 3/4″ lock washers and trimmed the top of the tensioner nut off to gain more clearance. I did it before fully testing LOL. I don’t think it was necessary…. It looks like I needed more washers than Darren, since I have an UDP. I also ground down the back of the pulley bolt some b/c I couldn’t freely slide it up and down.

The new nylon hose is smaller, so I used two different adapters and screwed them together (with permanent thread lock lol). I couldn’t find a barbed coupler with different diameters at the ****ty hardware stores.

I am using a 7th gen IM and TB on this engine. I want to retain as much power as possible. No EVT will be the only difference. Three pullies being lightweight/UDP should easily offset the loss of EVT.

Is it me or are arp bolts kinda sexy?

retarding cam wheels didn’t work, lovely
edit: Fixed after Darren sent me a pic.

I underestimated how much larger this pulley would be since it’s underdriving LOL. This thing must be 6″ .The sentras stock pulley causes cavitation at high rpm, so it’s even more oversized. It’s not that big of a deal, I just cut off that little arm on the bracket.

What I did forget is that they don’t use a two belt system, so it has two more ribs. 32″ belt works perfect and alignment is with the belt in the middle.

So, yeah, SR20 pulley is definitely a better idea for the non-rigging crew 

You’ll notice a piece missing haha. The pulley is 5.5″.
  

USE THIS OPPORTUNITY TO REPLACE POWER STEERING HOSE AS IT’S JUST ONE LESS THING TO REPLACE LATER

Mmmm, new friction plate

PCV? Nonsense crap!

Extended IVT wires

quick and dirty recap (can I do anything right lol) of what is not in my thread:

These are needed from old engine:

• Water pump access cover
• Crank Pulley
• Flywheel
• Motor mount brackets Front, Rear, and passenger
• Axle mount
• Upper and lower oil pan
• oil pickup tube
• Oil dipstick
• Oil cooler and related pieces (not thermostat), you can fit the monster purolator pure one with it pl-14619
• Swap pass motor mount – You need longer bolts for the two top ones (I don’t remember, just measure and figure it out, simple ****). I don’t recall what the bottom one needs to be.
• Need to buy the cam signal inverter from Darren (or build it, but I’m lazy) and power it by tapping into the 5V at the power steering pressure sensor.
• Need the TB adapter harness or pigtail.
• Install the VIAS. I think Darren used one of the solenoids off the new engine, idk. I just used the original VIAS system (split to both valves of course) to make sure it worked. Or you could just plug in the solenoid and rig the valves open.
• Need real tuning solution to extract all those ponies and fix AFR.
• Need 4″ intake for moar powah (which will need bigger injectors or more pressure)!

Before loom

After loom

I couldn’t find it actually posted anywhere where it loaded, but google had it

Alright folks, here ya go! Nice NiCopp clutch line!

Late pic for funsies. I forgot the balancer and chains LOL. I strapped the motor in and out and pulled the tranny up with them