Credit: Velazquez Junito Alexander
Owner: ILL-Maxima aka SleeperMax
Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Color: Tan
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE
Mod List:
- Lowered on Eibach springs
- Wilwood Front Calipers
- 2007 Front and Rear Conversion
- Custom Grill
- 2010 Maxima Wheels
- Cattman B-pipe
- Magnaflow Mufflers
- EZKonceptz Custom Rear Tail Lights
- All White Interior Lighting
- Fujita Intake
Credit: William H.
Here’s my 2008 Maxima. I was driving temp started going up. Then transmission seemed like it was giving up sucks.It started smoking i thought it was overheating antifreeze. pulled saw fire ran like hell called 911.i will send some pictures also.
Owner: Charles Downer
Year: 2006
Model: Maxima
Current Color: Black
Transmission: 6-Speed Manual
Trim: SE
Mod List:
- Gen2 VQ35 DE
- Brembo BBK Powder-coated Dormant Spalls Copper
- 370z Wheels Powder-coated Illusion Money
- Manzo Y-Pipe
- Vibrant Resonator
- OBX Mufflers
- Custom Headlights w/ Halos & Ring Strip
- Racingline Battery Tie Down
- Racingline Strut Bar
- Stillen Lip
- Elite Package w/ Heated seats (Fully Wired Up)
- Admintuning Intake
- Yellow Top Optima Battery
- Red Lion Mounts
- Mishimoto Radiator
- Pioneer Double Din Radio
- Green Leather Shift Knob
- Custom Green LED Cluster and Info Screen
- BC Coilovers w/ Swift Springs
- SPC Adjustable Rear Lower Control Arms
Owner: Rani F.
Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Current Color: Tan
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE Elite
Owner: Patrick Marcello
Year: 2007
Model: Maxima
Color: Red (Originally Black)
Transmission: CVT
Trim: SL
Owner: Delmas Mobio
Year: 2006
Model: Maxima
Color: Tan
Transmission: 5-Speed Automatic
Trim: SE
Mod List:
- Gen2 VQ35DE Swap
- 3.5 Intake
- Headers
- UpRev Dyno Tune
Community Member Credit: prostreetonline
The DTC ODBII trouble code P0335 on a VQ35, found in a Nissan 350Z, Infiniti G35, and many others is a Crank Position Sensor fault, or CKP for short. For this particular write-up we will be showing you How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor in a Infiniti G35. This sensor is a hall effect-magnetic style sensor that picks up the high and low parts of the flywheel to determine what position the crank is in.
The differences in the teeth of the flywheel provide changes in the voltage feedback given to the PCM from the crank position sensor. The P0335 DTC can be triggered by a few conditions in your VQ35, and needless to say your car will not operate correctly or even start with this DTC.
Here are the detecting condition of the DTC P0335 error code.
Where is my Crank Position sensor?
Easily the most commonly asked question in our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor guide. The VQ35 has it’s Crank Position Sensor ( CKP ) located on the bellhousing of the transmission, and it reads the position of the crank by reading the teeth on the flywheel.
How do I know my crank position sensor is bad?
To test your crank position sensor, first raise the vehicle and locate the crank position sensor and the plug leading to it.
Now that you have located the sensor, unplug the sensor and take a look at the 3 prong weatherproof connector. Don’t forget if you need the how to on servicing your camshaft position sensor, we’ve got you covered.
First you should check the continuity of the wiring by placing the negative terminal on a ground, and then putting the lead to pin 3.
Continuity should exist here, so move on to the next step of our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor writeup.
You can test this sensor using a voltmeter with one end connected to a chassis ground and the positive lead going to the 1 pin on the weatherproof connector.
If these 2 wires have continuity your part is more than likely damaged, as the 2nd pin is the signal wire to the PCM.
Why does my car not start?
The crankshaft position sensor is not transmitting any information to the PCM when trying to crank over your motor, without this sensor the PCM will not know how to operate the engine. This is when you will absolutely need our How to Service a VQ35 Crank Position Sensor article to get your car back on the road.
Where is the Crank Position Sensor pin on my VQ ECU?
Pin 13 is the Crankshaft Position Sensor on your VQ PCM, here is a diagram to help you test continuity should you need it.
This magnetic crank position sensor can be tested by measuring the resistance between terminal 1-2, terminal 1-3, and terminal 2 and 3.
All 3 of these combinations must measure resistance at 0 Ω or ∞, if your measurements are outside of this reading your sensor must be replaced.
Once you have the unit replaced, plug in your favorite ODDII scanner and clear the code P0335 and you are ready to rock and roll!
You have now serviced your VQ35 crank position sensor and saved yourself a lot of money in dealer labor.
Happy Driving!
Credit: Gaurasalti
I recently cleaned my throttle body and went threw the PAIN of trying to relearn my idle through the step by step process. But its misleading, the 7th step says to start car after light goes off but never does. You actually start car as soon as light stops blinking! Hope this helps somebody.
ENGINE COLD
- Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning” .
- Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
- Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
- Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
- Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
- Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
- WAIT over 10 seconds before this next step.
- Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” .
- Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
- Turn ignition switch “ON”. WAIT EXACTLY ONE SECOND SHARP. Turn ignition switch “OFF”
- THEN wait at least 10 seconds.
- Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound. – Very hard to hear anything at all. Just believe this is happening by faith.
Now, here’s the big change
- Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
AND RIDE YOUR CAR FOR AT LEAST 15 MINUTES, this will make for correct operating temperatures to happen within the engine for the following steps. Warming your car in the garage in the morning apparently does not cut it.
Check that all items listed under the topic “PREPARATION” (previously mentioned) are in good order.
- Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
- Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
- Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
- Fully depress the accelerator pedal. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
- Wait 7 seconds
- Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turns ON.
- Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off. Start engine and let it idle. THE ENGINE MUST BE STARTED WITHIN THE 3 SECONDS AFTER IT STOPS BLINKING, THATS HOW THIS LIGHT GOES OFF. THE SERVICE MANUAL DOES NOT STATE THIS, BUT IF YOU LOOK AT THE DIAGRAM WHERE THE ENGINE LINE ON-OFF IS, IT CLEARLY SHOWS YOU SHOULD TURN IT ON WITHIN THESE THREE SECONDS.
This is where your engine will start to learn the correct idle settings
- Wait 20 seconds.
- Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
