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my6thgen 04-08

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

The fans on my 6thgen Maxima went bad, so I decided to try out these eBay ones before buying a more expensive brand again. At this price, I figured I could repurpose them for something else in the event my car was not cooling properly. I previously had a SPAL fan where the motor seized. To my surprise, these actually ended up working great with no issues. While a shroud is recommended, I don’t have one and my car didn’t have any issues with cooling during the summer. I have an external water temp gauge and temps are as they normally should be.

So if you’re looking for a Mishimoto alternative or OEM stock fan replacement, you can give these a try. And quite honestly, I saw no difference between these and a set a Mishimoto fans that I have on another car. I have these wired up directly to stock harness used a 4thgen Maxima pigtail. No external relay was required for these.

Description: 2×14”inch Slim Fan Push Pull Engine Radiator Cooling 90W Mount Kit Universal
Price: $32 Shipped (for both fans)
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/192031451879

Details:

  • Diameter: 14 inches (Blade to Blade)
  • Thickness: 2.56 inches
  • Watts: 90W
  • CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute): 2550 cfm
  • RPM (Maximum Fan Revolution(s) Per Minute ): 2250 rpm
  • Number of Blades: 8 pcs
  • Color : Black

Package Included:

  • 2x 14” Black Electric Radiator Cooling Fan
  • 2x Mount Hardware Kit
  • 2x Installation instruction

Mishimoto Comparison

PRODUCT SPECS

TYPE OF ENDS Female Snap-Plug Terminal
MATERIAL Plastic
AIR TEMP WHILE TESTED 72°F (22°C)
NORMAL CURRENT (AMPS) 7.8
VOLTS 12
HOUSING DIAMETER 14.75″
OVERALL THICKNESS 2.5″
REVERSE True
BLADE STYLE Curved
INRUSH CURRENT (AMPS) 15.1
# OF BLADES 8
FAN RPM 2200
FAN DIAMETER 14″
OVERALL DEPTH 2.67″
CFM 1300

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Community Member Credit: Benzolorenzo1

About 6 months ago I received the death code P1778 (stepper motor) in my 2008 Altima. I searched far and wide, low and high, only to be told 2 things… you need a new transmission, or you need a new valve body. Since I didn’t have $2500 for a new trans, let alone $800 for the valve body I decided to look into this a little further. watched a YouTube video the only one I could find was a Nissan armada, but thought what the hell. I drained the fluid, dropped the pan, yanked out the valve body, and found that little bastard that gave me such trouble.

Now with part in hand I went to my local parts store, and told we don’t sell that part, its not even in our system… went to the dealership, told the same thing and was told I needed to buy a new transmission as they are not “serviceable” funny but I had the part in hand, how can it be not serviceable?

Lastly I took a gamble, I went to eBay, ordered a stepper motor. 20k miles later, still no code, no whine, and no lock up.

Part Number: 203452A
Description: JF011E RE0F10E F1CJA Transmission CVT Stepper Motor For SENTRAN Nissan Dodge Refurbished
Price: $30-$40

Here is how I saved thousands and bought a $35 part.

  1. Drain fluid.
  2. Drop pan (clean with brake cleaner)
  3. Remove the 3 bolts holding filter. (clean with brake cleaner while your at it)
  4. Remove the valve body about 11 bolts
  5. Remove the stepper motor from the top of the valve body (the side you can’t see with the pan off) 2 bolts
  6. Replace with the new stepper motor found here https://www.ebay.com/itm/282288900117 or https://www.ebay.com/itm/183910578995
  7. Take a piece of dental floss about a foot long and hold the spring loaded arm back against the stepper motor and return the valve body back to the transmission.
  8. After you have a few bolts in place remove the floss before you tighten all the way.
  9. Reconnect trans filter and bolt back into place.
  10. Rejoin the fluid pan to the transmission and replace with quality CVT fluid. Amsoil makes a great product.

I hope this helps and if you have questions please feel free to ask.

Video How-to (Many thanks to Budget Drift for this)

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If you are DIY person and love working on your Nissan Maxima, then this tool is a MUST HAVE! When you go to the Nissan dealer, the person working on your car typically uses a tool called a Nissan Consult. The Nissan Consult that the dealer uses costs thousand of dollars and is only available to dealers. By using the Nissan DataScan software, a laptop and a generic VAG COM OBDII adapter you can achieve just about the same level of on-board diagnosis that $5,000 Nissan Consult provides. This software allows you to:

  • Check CEL codes
  • Check/Reset ABS and SRS-Airbag Faults
  • Check/Reset TCM Codes
  • Adjust timing
  • Perform Idle Air Relearn
  • Reset ECU learned settings
  • Data-log
  • Program keys
  • Check Emissions Readiness Monitors
  • Active Test temporary modify some of the engine parameters for testing purposes
  • And Much much more….

The software itself costs $55.00 and generic cable costs around $7.00-$8.00. 

Software License Purchase Link: Nissan DataScan II

Software Download Links:

OBD2 Cable Order Links: 

You can find the cables on eBay between $12.00-$20.00 shipped. It ranges based on location and shipping. Search for the following keywords on eBay and you will find it: “KKL 409.1 VAG-COM OBD2 USB Cable

Below are all the functions it provides:

ECU Part Number

This is the main window of the NDSII software which shows the ECM Nissan Identification part number. Basic and Advance Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons, using the shortcut keys (F1 – F11) or using the Menu bar. Most functions except Data Replay and Log Analyser are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates communication between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Data Display Settings

This window is used to assign parameters to be displayed by the Data Display function. Only parameters that are supported by the currently connected ECU are available for selection. Gauges are counted from left to right, top to bottom. Multiple gauges can monitor the same parameter.

Data Logging ECM

Selected parameters can be logged to a file. This function can also be accessed from the Data Display window. The data log file can be analysed using the Data Replay or Log Analyser functions.

Self Diagnostics ECM

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset engine ECU error codes.

Idle Adjustment

Idle Adjustment function allows users to adjust the base idle RPM. The setting is saved to the ECU and it does not reset with engine restart.

Timing Adjustment

Timing Adjustment function allows users to adjust the base ignition timing. The setting is saved to the ECU and it does not reset with engine restart.

Active Test ECM

Active Test allows users to temporary modify some of the engine parameters for testing purposes. They return to their original values when a function is stopped, PC disconnected or engine restarted.

Note: It is possible to damage the engine if the A/F Base % functions is used to excessively modify fuel delivery. Likewise the engine may overheat if the Engine Temperature is set to low for a long period of time. Do not use those functions if you are not sure how they will effect your engine.

Work Support

Work Support functions allow users to perform some of the advance service procedures. Those procedures may need to be performed after replacement parts are installed.

Clear Self Learn – clears the A/F Base SL map learned by the ECU.

Idle Air Volume Learn – is an operation to learn the fully closed position of the throttle valve.

Program Immobiliser Key – allows to register the Nissan transponder keys with the Immobiliser Note: The immobiliser security PIN CODE needs to be known. Initially all registered keys will be erased and all keys will need to be reregistered.

Cylinder Power Test

Cylinder Power Test function can be used to identify cylinder that is under performing. This function allows shutting down individual cylinders. If all of the cylinders are producing the same amount of power the engine RPMs will drop exactly the same amount on each cylinder that is cancelled.

Log Analyser is used to review log files previously generated by with Data Logging function. Graphs are drawn by selecting boxes next to parameter value. Graph colours match the parameter value colours.

Speed Test

Speed Test is a unique function for measuring car’s acceleration performance. Predefined or user specific tests can be used. Due to the low resolution of Nissan speed sensors, measurements should only be used as a guide and not a true reflection of car’s performance.

Note: This function should not be used while driving on public roads.

Address Watch

Address Watch function is used for monitor specific ECU memory addresses. By monitoring a memory address extra information can be retrieved that is not normally available using Consult II protocol. A knock sensor reading can be obtain using this method if knock sensor memory address is known.

Wideband O2 sensor

Nissan DataScan II also supports wideband Air/Fuel ratio meters from Innovate Motorsports. A second serial port is used to connect to the controller and collect data.

The data from the wideband meter can be displayed or logged in conjunction with other engine parameters using the Data Logging function.

ECU Part Number BCM

The BCM tab shows the BCM Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. All functions are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Self Diagnostics BCM

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset BCM error codes.

Active Test BCM

Active Test allows users to temporally activate some of the functions of the BCM. This is usually used to manually test the functionality of the systems controlled by the BCM.

Note: Functions not supported by the BCM are disabled (grayed out).

ECU Part Number TCM

The TCM tab shows the TCM Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. Most functions except Data Replay and Log Analyser are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Data Logging TCM

Selected parameters can be logged to a file. This function can also be accessed from the Data Display window so the data can be logged while it is displayed. The data log file can be analysed using the Data Replay or Data Analyser functions.

Self Diagnostics TCM

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset TCM error codes.

ECU Part Number ABS

The ABS tab shows the ABS Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. Most functions except Data Replay and Log Analyser are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Data Logging ABS

Selected parameters can be logged to a file. This function can also be accessed from the Data Display window so the data can be logged while it is displayed. The data log file can be analysed using the Data Replay or Data Analyser functions.

Self Diagnostics ABS

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset ABS error codes.

Work Support ABS

Work Support functions allow users to perform advance service procedures. Those procedures may need to be performed after replacing parts.

Steering Angle Sensor Reset – After removing/installing or replacing VDC/TCS/ABS control unit, steering angle sensor, steering components, suspension components, and tires, or after adjusting wheel alignment, make sure to adjust neutral position of steering angle sensor before running vehicle.

ECU Part Number SRS

The SRS tab shows the SRS Nissan Identification part number. Basic Functions can be selected by clicking on the buttons or using the Menu bar. All functions are disabled until communication with the ECU is successfully established.

Progress bar at the bottom indicates data being send between the ECU and PC. If the bar is not moving there is no data being received from the ECU.

Note: Some vehicles may use K line for diagnostics of engine ECU (ECM) but still use DDL1 line for diagnostics of other control modules. This software does not support diagnostics over the DDL1 line. Some of those models are: X-trail, Maxima, Patrol.

Self Diagnostics SRS

Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset SRS error codes.

Note: Recorded faults are historical and can not be cleared.

Work Support

Work Support functions allow users to perform the advance service procedures. Those procedures may need to be performed after replacement parts are installed.

Program Immobiliser Key – allows to register the Nissan transponder keys with the Immobiliser Note: The immobiliser security PIN CODE needs to be known. Initially all registered keys will be erased and all keys will need to be reregistered.

OBDII Self Diagnostics

OBDII Self Diagnostics function allows users to read and reset ECU error codes.

OBDII Monitor Status

OBDII Monitor Status shows the current status of various monitoring systems used by the car’s engine management system.

OBDII Log Analyser

Log Analyser is used to review log files previously generated by with Data Logging function. Graphs are drawn by selecting boxes next to parameter value. Graph colours match the parameter value colours.

OBDII Fuel System Satus

OBDII Fuel System Status can be used to check if the car’s fuel system is running in Closed Loop mode.

Fuel systems do not normally refer to injector banks. They are intended to represent completely different fuel systems that can independently enter and exit closed loop fuel. Banks of injectors on a V-engine are generally not independent and share the same closed-loop enablement criteria.

OBDII Data Logging

Selected OBDII parameters can be logged to a file. The data log file can then be analysed using the Log Analyser function.

Due to the slow nature of OBDII protocol it’s recommended to log only the required parameters.

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Credit: redlinegoods

To install on an automatic, you need to wedge the shift boot between the shifter assembly and the trim piece surrounding it. Therefore it is necessary to remove that surrounding trim.

When removing the trim piece surrounding the shifter, hazard switch and power outlet, the thing to be cautious about is the shifter trim (the silver piece with the gear labels). If you hit the front of that with the underside of the trim piece you are removing, it may get scratched.

Take time & care when doing this, and you should be OK. If you’re really concerned about it, you can put tape or something over the edge of the silver piece first to avoid scratching it. Now, take a very small flathead screwdriver (as in a glasses repair kit) and wrap the tip in an old t-shirt or rag. Then carefully worm it between the large trim piece and the rest of the console starting at the rear nearest the cup holders. You will be able to lift the trim up enough to squeeze another screwdriver in there. Work your way around left and right until you can get your fingers under the trim. Then slide your fingers under and pull up to disengage clips. There are clips to the left and right of the shifter and then closer to the climate control. You will be able to pull up/back and disengage all of these clips. Then you have to worm the trim out from under the climate control. I found it to be easier to remove the trim with the shifter in either the 3rd gear or 2nd gear position.

Once you have the large trim piece free, you can either turn the piece carefully to one side or the other, or you can remove the trim entirely by disconnecting the hazard switch, power outlet, and compartment light harnesses. Now open the Velcro strips from each other so you can slip the boot over the shift knob and pull it down snug around the silver shift indicator piece, making sure to get the stitched seams positioned at the four corners. Carefully reinstall the trim piece (with black gasket in place) back over the shifter and under the climate control. It will take some effort to get the trim & gasket back over the leather and shift plate, but if you start at one corner and work your way around it will go on. The snug fit between gasket & leather will keep the boot in place. Now snap the trim back in place. Here is a more pictoresque documentation! 🙂

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Community Member Credit: Kenny

Hey guys, so for those of you like me that want the song title/cd title, etc to show on your display i finally found the solution! (if it hasn’t been found already). I’ve looked everywhere on this forum and didn’t seem to find the answer myself so i went ahead and experimented different ways of showing your CD info on the display when playing audio CD’s on your factory radio.

So now for the steps:

  1. Open up iTunes
  2. Make a new playlist of music you want to copy to a disc
  3. Click On “File>Burn Playlist To Disc”
  4. A Mini Screen will pop up and you have to check on “include cd txt” (picture below)

  5. Insert disc in cd player, Press On the left audio button and go to the last one that says “display info” (or something like that? turn the knob until it says track title/cd title etc. and wala! you can now see your song names on your factory radio.

On the pictures below, You will see the boring (track #), then you will see your fun new display with the song name!

It made a huge difference too me, now instead of seeing a boring display I can enjoy reading what im listening too, me personally i prefer it to say the track name, and maybe others will too….enjoy!

PS. If you want your 04-06 to be like the 07-08 display that you can have it say anything you want, say I want my display to say “kaygmaxima”, all you have to do is name your playlist that your burning to the disc whatever you want and change your display setting with the right side knob and choose the option to show your “cd title” and when you play your CD your display will say whatever was desired.(i forgot to take pictures of that, but if really needed i will add to this thread when possible)

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Community Member Credit: DAlastDON

When I bought my 07 maxima one of the things that sold me on the car was the intelligent key fob. Its nice to not have to dig in my pocket to get my keys out. Just walk up push the button on the door handle and im in. After talking to alot of alarm installers and a couple nissan dealerships they all told me that if an aftermarket alarm was installed i would lose the convience of the intelliegent key on the door locks. Also asked if it was possiable to add shock and tilt sensors to the factory alarm and was told that it could not be done.

This led me to google and i saw in alot of bmw, scion, toyota, etc.. forums of people adding sensors onto existing factory alarm triggers in the doors, hood, trunk pins. So i ordered three things, a DEI 507M(tilt sensor), DEI 504D(shock sensor) and DEI 528T(timer). Other items purchased from a local automotive store were, simple on/off switch, standard automotive relay, wire, and materials required to splice the wires together.

The relay is used to shut down the sensors when the key is turned on to avoid the info screen displaying that the trunk is open while driveing. The timer is used to temporaialy disable the sensors while exiting the car. Without the timer you would not be able to immedialy lock the doors and put the factory alarm in “pre-arm” due to the shock sensor sending a gound pulse to the trunk switch. It would cancle the “pre-arm” because it would sense the trunk was open and the alarm would never fully arm. If you wanted to wait about 10 seconds after the last door was shut everytime then the timer woudlnt be required.

Only four connections to the car are needed. One for constant 12v, Accesory 12v, ground, and the trunk switch.

First thing i did was draw a schematic of all the connections.

Next using a multimeter i found connections in the fuse box for 12v constant and 12v accessory. I used the fuel lid for 12v constant and cig lighter for 12v accessory. Then found a good ground next to the fuse panel. After finding the power connections the negative side of the battery is disconnected.

Next I decided where i wanted the sensors and timer/relay located. The sensors are located underneath the center console glued down using crazy glue gel and the timer/relay are located behind climate controls.

A simple push button switch was put inside center console storage space just in case it storms real bad and the wind/rain keep triggering the alarm.

Makeing the connection from trunk switch can be made from one of two places. Either at the BCM(pin#42) behind the fuse box or right at the trunk latch. Its a very small wire and i didnt have a small enough splice block to pierce the insulation at the BCM so i routed a wire from the switch i installed in the arm rest storage to the trunk latch. The wire is violet with a white stripe. I striped back enough wire to to stick into the connector then plug the connector back in. Make sure your wire will make contact inside the connector or nothing will work.

Routing the trigger wire from the switch in the armrest to the trunk is easy but going from the trunk to the trunk lid through the rubber hose and through the inside of the trunk lid is difficult. I pushed a stiff piece of wire inch by inch through the rubber hose. Put tape around the end of the wire so it doesnt poke through the hose as you push and carefully bend and guide it around the curve of the hose. Once through tape your wire comeing from the switch in the armrest to the wire you stuck through the rubber hose then carefully pull it back through. It will get stuck on the other wires several times. Just be patient. To get the trigger wire though the inside of the trunk lid it is even more difficult. I used a long piece of stiff wire and fished it from the latch to the rubber hose. It will take several attempts to get the wire though. Once through just tape the trigger wire on and pull it right through. It may have been easier if dynamat wasnt installed previously not only on the trunk side but also between the inner and outer skin of the trunk lid. Not pictured are all the cuts and scratches on my right hand.

The relay used is just a generic 5 pin relay found at any automotive parts store. I pulled my dash apart to see if it had a brand or part number on it and it had nothing. To the best of my knowledge any 5 pin relay with a normally open and normally closed contact will work. I got mine from autozone. I just told the guy at the counter that i needed a 5 pin relay. On the bottom of the relay the pins are numbered. Make sure the one you get has and “87” and “87a”. The letter after the “87” can be anything. On mine its “87q”.

I have zero problems. The intelikey works exactly as it did before.

The trigger outputs are connected to the trunk pin(switch). A picture is worth a 1000 words. Cant make this any clearer.

Be sure to turn the sensitivity all the way up on the shock sensor via the screw adjustment on the sensor. When i roughed the install in to test it and had everything just laying in the back floor board just a little peck on the window would activate the shock sensor. But after putting it under the center console i had to turn it all the way up and it takes a good thud on the window. The preset sensitivity of the tilt sensor is perfect, it triggers after the car has been jacked up a few inches at all four tires. We have had a couple of good thunderstorms with 50mph winds with no false alarms yet.

Picked this up at autozone where the fuses are. It allows you to tap into one fuse socket and fuse two items separately. Im going to add another to the fuel lid connection soon so i can fuse it separately as well. Didn’t feel like making another trip to autozone to pick up another at the time. Make sure its for the mini fuse and not the full size.

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Member Credit: SGSash / onpointdyno

I just picked up my HR heads from Gord Bush who cleaned them up for me and flow tested them. We of course have previous numbers from the non-revup heads that I had Gord Bush port – so let’s compare! Visually looking at the HR heads you can see just how much bigger the intake port is than the non-revup heads, and the numbers prove it – the HR heads flow the same as the ported DE heads (in fact substantially more at low valve lifts). The exhaust doesn’t flow quite as well as the ported DE exhaust did, but it is still substantially better than a stock DE at high lifts.

Stock VQ35DE heads on the flow bench, very similar looking to the HR exhaust ports

Stock DE intake ports on the flow bench, substantially different than the HR

One reason the exhaust flows less at low valve lifts may be due to the fact that the HR has smaller valves. While this may be counter intuitive to those of you that go out there and buy the biggest valves you can, a smaller valve shrouds the combustion chamber less, and in-fact promotes flow at higher lifts. My imagination tells me you want the smallest valve and biggest port you can get away with, without overheating the valve.

Once these HR heads are ported, we should be able to get a decent bit more exhaust flow and hopefully crack the 400whp barrier with shorter intake runners and exhaust runners.

 

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Community Member Credit: NiZMo1o1

So I know it’s been a while since I’ve updated on my build thread or anything with Betsy. Just wanted to share what’s been going on as we’re doing R&D at the moment. We are working on a custom plenum for the VQ35DE and VG30DETT. So this isn’t near the finish but I wanted to share with you guys my setup.

This is ACT carbon plenum with velocity stack airhorns inside it. I’ve decided to either go this route because of spacing underneath the hood. I intended to use the Jenvey ITB setup BUT because I would need to have two air boxes and may NOT have enough room, we decide to build our own intake.

This is how the ITB setup looks and we have a few running around ALL MOTOR in the FWD application. 

ACT Plenum

Rough idea, no Horn or stacks yet, not quite finished.

This is what its going to look inside

All this spawn from the VQ30DETT ( 300zx guys ) we are doing a setup for my buddy and got mixed reviews over on his board because there are many that are engineers over on his forum said it would never work.

The problem is these guys DON’T think out of the box, and because Nissan designs the OEM intake it’s supposed to work? Nissan built the OEM manifold to withstand 320hp-400hp max. Since we started this project guys overseas in New Zealand and Aussie have called us asking for this setup.

Over 3 weeks ago we started on the VG’s and then we looked at the mocked-up VQs and spare VQs at the shop. Decided today to start working on the VQ project, so this is just some rough draft early stages. The plenum will have enough volume with the velocity stacks inside to increase speed and airflow. The carbon plenum itself has been pressure tested to 90PSI which any motor will ever see that. I’m also tinkering with the idea to have the injectors sit INSIDE the air horns like F1 cars like so

 

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