Category

my6thgen 04-08

Category

Owner: Omar Hernandez aka hero782

Year: 2007
Model: Maxima
Color:  Silver to White
Transmission: CVT
Trim: SL

Mod List:

Engine/Performance: 

  • R2C intake
  • Kinetix SSV Intake Manifold
  • Greddy Spectrum Elite SE cat back
  • NOS Wet Nitrous Kit
  • Apexi Neo
  • Innovate XD-16 Wideband
  • QTP Cut-off
  • Racingline performance Y-pipe
  • Racingline HFC’s
  • NWP Phenolic Thermal Intake Manifold Spacer Kit
  • 2 Degree Advance Timing

Suspension: 

  • D2 RS Coilovers
  • Racingline Front Strut bar
  • Progress Rear Sway Bar
  • KCmaxx RSTB

Braking: 

  • Wilwood Superlite Calipers
  • Hawk HPS Pads
  • AlienRotors

Wheels: 

  • 19′ Enkei G37 Wheels
    19X8.5 front
    19X9 rear
  • 20′ Volk GT-C
    20×8.5 front
    20×9.5 rear
    Kics Neo Chrome r40 lugs

Interior: 

  • Black Leather
  • Escort Passport 8500 X50 hard wired
  • LED Courtesy Lights F&R
  • LED Floor Lights
  • LED Trunk Lights
  • LED Cupholders
  • LED Vanity Mirror Lights
  • LED Dome Lights

Stereo:

  • Eclipse AVN6200 navigation
  • AudioControl Epic-160
  • Rockford Fosgate Power T10001bd
  • Rockford Fosgate Power T400-4
  • Arc Audio KS300.4
  • 2-12′ RE Audio SE
  • Hertz MLK Mille 6.5 Comps Front Doors
  • Hertz HSK Hi Power Comps Rear Doors
  • Dynamat Trunk/Doors
  • Streetwires ZN9 RCA
  • Knu Kolossus 1ga
  • Big 3
  • Axxess NIRD-01

Exterior: 

  • DB 6.5 front lip
  • Unfeadable Custom Side Skirts
  • E&G fine mesh grill
  • Carbon Fiber Ionic Dynamics Roof Spoiler
  • Blacked out roof
  • IPCW LED taillights
  • 6000k HID headlamps
  • 3000k HID fogs
  • Custom Iron Man LEDs
  • Independent Fog Lights
  • Switchback LED turn signal
  • LED cornering light
  • LED Reverse light
  • LED License Plate

Other:

  • Nismo radiator cap
  • Nismo oil cap
  • Baller Bolts Burnt Titanium Strut Tower Nuts
  • Nismo Valve Tire Stem Caps

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This car was built back in 2007. One of the very first 6thgen Maximas (if not the first) to get on Air Suspension and also go for unique look.

Member Credit: Kenny aka UNFADEABLE MAX

Year: 2004
Model: Maxima
Color: Pearl White (QX3)
Transmission: Automatic
Trim: SL

Full Mod List / Specs:

  • 22X9.5 Niche Belmont wheels (powder coated pearl white and black painted face)
  • 255/30/22″ Tires
  • Painted black roof
  • Painted black trunk
  • Painted stripe on hood
  • Ionic roof spoiler
  • Smoked taillights
  • Painted headlight housings black
  • Medium tint
  • AT Grill
  • Redline bumper with custom fitted GS300 Fog Lights
  • 2007 rear spoiler molded to the trunk
  • 2007 rear bumper
  • Concept sideskirts
  • License plate LED’s
  • 8K Hid’s
  • 8K HID Fogs
  • Crossed drilled and slotted rotors w/ Nissan logo
  • Painted engine pieces
  • Fujita CAI
  • Painted interior trim pieces
    Put in a leather package also (my car came with cloth)

Air suspension 

  • 2 front strut bags
  • 2 rear bags
  • 2 Stainless steel 5 gallon tanks
  • 2 480C Viair 100% duty air compressors
  • 2 380C Viair 100% duty air compressors
  • 8 3/8″ SMC valves
  • EAI Chrome 9 switch switchbox

Custom audio setup

  • 2 12″ Alphasonik 900 mayhem subs
  • 1 Alphasonik 1200DA Monoblock amp
  • 1 Alphasonik 1040 HCA amp
  • 2 Audiobahn 1 farad caps
  • Audio control epicenter
  • Second battery in the trunk
  • All new pioneer door and 6×9 speakers
  • 6 tweeters
  • Kenwood DNX-5120 double din headunit w/NAV
  • 7″ monitor and dropped down the stock screen
  • Calrion eq
  • Custom fiberglass and painted box
  • Custom amp racks
  • Extra battery w/ DC tie down and chrome battery cover

 

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

I had recently encountered a Brake/Battery Light. The alternator checked out OK and car was driving well.

After a little research, I discovered that the 10A Alternator Fuse located in the engine bay (picture below) was blown. Once I replaced it, both the Battery and Brake Light went off. The reason why the fuse blew is because the alternator plug was a little frayed and both wires made contact with each other. I re-did the wiring and sealed it up nicely.

Just wanted to share this information in case you think it’s your Alternator and/or ECU. Simple fix!

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Gallery of Maxima’s and Altima’s with HR Swaps aka FWD 2nd Gen VQ35DE Swap.

 

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Recently, I started to smell strong gas fumes in my car. I always thought it was because I was running “rich”. However, after further inspecting my fuel tank area, I noticed my fuel pump assembly had a small crack on it. This was causing fumes to go inside the car. I’m honestly not sure how this happened and/or how long the car was this way. This also explains why the EVAP emissions readiness monitor was taking a very long time to set. 

I ordered a used OEM fuel pump assembly from eBay. It cost me $40 bucks shipped. The old one is on the left and replacement on the right. The OEM part number is 17040-ZD80B. I have an upgraded fuel pump (Aeromotive 340), so I had swap it over to the replacement assembly.

The hose holding the fuel pump is very tight. The photos below courtesy of MrJasonlyrics show how to best remove. First you take a razor blade to make a small cut. Then you insert a flat head screwdriver in between the cut to remove the hose.

I used my existing hose as I felt it was fine. I also added a clamp on it. Don’t over-tighten the clamp as you may break the little tube (photo below) on the fuel pump. I accidentally over-tightened the clamp and the little tube slightly cracked. Thankfully there was enough tube left on pump so that I can put the hose over it and clamp it down.

And my baby back on the road.

Helpful Videos:

Removing the Assembly (Credit: Falcon’s Garage)

Swapping the Fuel Pump (Credit: MrJasonlyrics )

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Member Credit: Hamchan (hmax)

This is the story of my 2008 Maxima conversion using an Elite Package from a 04-06 Maxima. Hopefully this will help some of you. As you may know the Elite option was offered from 2004-2006 (6thgen) and some 2007-2008 (6.5gen) Maxima’s. Not too many 2007-2008 Maxima’s were ordered and build with Elite package. I have physically only seen two 07-08 Elite package Maxima’s.

You can pickup a used Elite Package anywhere between $150-450. All depends on who you get it from. Also, the “Peanut Butter” edition will go for slightly more.

“Peanut Butter Edition”

Pictures and Corresponding Numbers:

  1. Rear Deck Lid
  2. Rear Sun Shade
  3. Rear seats (4 pieces) Two Bottom and Two Top Pieces
  4. Side Bolster Plates
  5. Seat Plate
  6. Center console (6 total pieces)
    • Top Cubby
    • Rear Bottom Console
    • Rear Bottom Side Plates for Console
    • MAKE sure to get the assorted wires and switches behind/under the console. These wires control heated seats and sunshade.
  7. Air Vent for Front Console
  8. Seat bracket #8

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Member Credit: Charles Downer

Tools & Materials Needed

  • Ratcheting Wrench
  • Screwdriver (Phillips)
  • Wire Cutters
  • Gauge Wire
  • Lots of Patience

REMOVING OLD SEATS:

  • Remove bottom of rear seats held in by 4 tabs directly under that can be pulled for a quick release…that section slides out after release
  • Remove bolts (14MM) that are holding the back part of the rear seats then remove the rest of the seats
  • Get rid of the middle seat belt held in by (14MM) bolts as well
  • Take off the seat brackets and bar for the original seats held in by (14MM) bolts
  • Remove the pillars held in with clips holding in the rear deck
  • Pry up the rear deck held in by clips as well and remove black tape covering holes meant for rear window shade

WIRING UP THE SEATS AND SHADE

  • The front armrest will have to be pulled as well to get access to the front buttons and install the rear deck shade button in between the heated seats buttons (04-06 only). The harness for the rear deck shade is already there even if your car does not come with the elite package…the plug is taped off with gray electrical tape to the side.
  • To wire up the elite package you have to splice into the front seat harness…mostly color matching until you come across 2/3 wires that do not match anything…these are power wires (white/black on the rear deck shade…light blue on the rear heated seats…red/green on the original harness)
  • If the harness isn’t long enough to reach the front you will have to buy additional wire and extend it. The rear deck shade harness can be spliced into the rear heated seats harness and the rear heated seats harness into the front heated seats harness. Be sure to solder it or tape everything up nicely so it can work properly.
  • Before putting everything back together test and see that things are working properly.

PUTTING THE ELITE PACKAGE TOGETHER

  • Remove the old rear vents from the back of the front armrest and install the one for the elite package
  • Install the seat plate/bracket bolted in by about 8 (14MM) bolts
  • Install the seat & armrest bar bolted in by about 3/4 (14MM) bolts
  • Install the rear deck shade bolt it in with 4 10MM bolts…2 of them are pretty difficult to get in due to lack of space…I got them all in but the 2 right spaced ones are only about halfway in
  • Reinstall rear deck for elite package & rear shade
  • Reinstall pillars that hold in rear deck
  • Install rear seats that sit on the hooks on seat plate installed earlier…also bolted in on the bottom…2 bolts per seat
  • Install rear armrest which slides directly into the back of the front armrest
  • Install side panels for armrest popped in by clips
  • Install side bolsters which fills the gaps between the seats and door moldings
  • Install the bottom of the rear seats

Reference Photos:

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Member Credit: Tito Savain (@thekidlyric on YouTube)

This is Tito’s journey on swapping his 2004 6-Speed Maxima with a newer VQ35DE Engine. This swap is commonly known as the HR Swap aka FWD 2nd Gen VQ35DE Swap. The engine was from a 2014 Nissan Maxima with 45K miles and cost $600 from a junk yard. For anyone considering the swap, check out the videos below.

HR Swap Part 1

General Update

HR Swap Part 2

HR Swap Part 3

HR Swap Part 4

HR Swap Part 5

General Update Part 2

General Update Part 3

Engine Bay Photos

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Member Credit: EddyMaxx

Do you have the symptoms below:

This morning while I was driving to school, my instrument cluster just stopped working… I.E. Speedometer, odometer, fuel gauge, rpm’s, even the blinkers (though these worked, just wouldn’t get the clicking noise or the visual indicator on the instrument cluster). The odometer would show my mileage, but didn’t change at all. The cluster lights weren’t as bright during the day as they usually are. Also, the A/C – Heater system wouldn’t turn on, cruise wouldn’t work (kinda made sense though since the speedometer wasn’t working). – mattpattberg

If so, then the first thing you need to check is if you have any coins on top of your radio dash. If you remember having coins or actually see coins there, one of them may have dropped into AC Amp case and caused it to burn out. Usually pennies and dimes. You will now have to replace the AC Control Amplifier. Most members buy it used from eBay or local junk yards.

This may also trigger a U1000 CAN Communication Line – Signal Malfunction code.

Part Number: 27760-7Y000 (AC Control Amplifier)

You can follow the replacement how-to here: https://www.my4dsc.com/replace-ac-control-amplifier-6thgen-maxima/

Used Replacement (27760-7Y000 AC Control Amplifier).

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Member Credit: Nperez1986 /  Jonthon Rubia

If you are looking to upgrade to the Akebono 4-Piston BBK from a Nissan 370z / Infiniti G37 Sport, you now have the option to use 300ZX (Z32) caliper adapter brackets on eBay. The bracket themselves are $70 bucks shipped. In order for this to work, you will need to use the Mitsubishi Evo X GSR 13.78″ (350 MM) rotors versus the Z34/V36 rotors (354 MM) rotors. The rotors themselves can be found for super cheap as well.

Brackets / Rotors work on the following:

  • 2002-2006 Altima (Front/Rear)
  • 2005-2006  Altima SE-R (Front/Rear)
  • 2004-2008 6thgen Maxima (Front/Rear)
  •  2000-2003 5thgen Maxima (Front ONLY)
  • 1995-1999 4thgen Maxima  (Front ONLY)

Notes: For the 4thgen Nissan Maxima, you will need to enlarge the (4) holes in the knuckles to accommodate for bigger caliper bracket bolts. Aside from that it will work fine. Just keep in mind that this is ONLY for the front calipers. Rears will not fit on the 4thgens / 5thgens. 

Link to Brackets: https://ebay.us/sCjKnm

eBay Actual Description: Front Akebono Big Brake Caliper Rotor Upgrade Adapter Bracket For 300ZX Z32

Once the calipers are on the car you only need to trim the dust shield in the lower mounting area. Photo’s below:

Nperez1986 below is demonstrating that the calipers and bracket will bolt on the front knuckles with no modifications. 

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