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my6thgen 04-08

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my6thgen 04-08

Greddy Spectrum Elite Exhaust for 6thgen Maxima

This exhaust is no longer available for sale. This is only for reference and documentation purposes. It cost approx. $900.00-$1,000 when it was available for sale. The part number was 10127021.

GReddy’s SE exhaust systems deliver the full spectrum of features desired in a street performance system. SE exhausts increase flow via tuned piping and larger, free-flowing mufflers for improved power, but provide discreet sound levels that won’t attract the wrong kind of attention. The exhaust note is comfortable and sporty, not loud.

All SE Exhaust are test to be well below the 95dBA standard. The new smaller Spectrum exhaust tip(s) help disguise the system from the rear of the vehicle, but reveal show-quality appearance from the side and underneath. Whether you are cruising down the road or at wide-open throttle down the track, the Spectrum Elite is ready.

 

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my6thgen 04-08

Greddy SP-2 Exhaust for 6thgen Maxima

This exhaust is no longer available for sale. This is only for reference and documentation purposes. It cost approx. $900.00-$1,000 when it was available for sale.

The SP2 features a 304 stainless steel muffler canister with extra strong 430 SS end caps that feature a deep, high polish. Large, high volume mufflers provide maximum flow with a deep, pleasing tone and are especially effective when used on vehicles with aftermarket turbocharger systems. The unique outer curled oval tip (115 x 110mm dia.) is embossed with the famous GReddy logo.


      

 

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my6thgen 04-08

Installing Leather Evo IX Recaro Seats on 6thgen Maxima

Member Credit: DeusExMaxima

I looked at and sat in many many seats. I had several criteria:

1. Lightweight (under 35 lbs) – This is an easy way to drop lots of weight. The OEM seats are 65 lbs EACH.

2. High bolsters – I want to be held in by the seat. I like high side bolsters

3. Charcoal leather – To match my interior. I would have bought cloth seats, but I would have had to re=cover them in leather later.

4. Reclinable – This is my daily driver, with different people driving. I really wanted reclinable.

I chose leather seats from aa Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution 8. In this pic the OEM passenger seat is still in, but the drivers seat is the Recaro

Click the image to open in full size.

This was a rare option on these cars. I remember sitting in an Evo with leather a few years ago and LOVED the seats. They are aggressive, but not so much so, like Brides. They arent to hard to get in and out of. In fact, the lower bolster is similar to the OEM Maxima seat. The top part is much more aggressive, like sitting in a cradle. It is much firmer than the Maxima seat, yet it forms to the body. They are incredibly comfortable.

I had Wedge Engineering fabricate a beautiful bracket and slider that fits perfectly. They used a jig from the Bride seats that Sexima (org member) had in his car.

Installation:

1. Remove the plastic covers and the 4 bolts holding the seats in.

2. Disconnect battery, and wait several minutes.

3. Tilt seat back and remove the connectors for air bag and other electronics.

4. Carefully pull the heavy seat out of the car.

5. Install the 2 ohm 1/2 watt resistor in the air bag connector.

6. Install the new seat, and bolt it down. Now is the time to install harness too if u have one.

Comparison of Maxima seat and Recaro seat:
Click the image to open in full size.

Top view of Maxima seat and Recaro seat. Note the much deeper bolsters in the Recaro:

Click the image to open in full size.

7. Remove seat belt receptor from OEM seat and install on Recaro bracket:

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8. Seat installed with Sparco harness:
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The seats look a bit stained but its cuz I used tons of leather conditioner. They look stock but slightly aggressive, and the leather matches PERFECTLY. I am extremely pleased with these seats.

Here is a day time pic:

Click the image to open in full size.

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my6thgen 04-08

Cattman Headers Installation on 6thgen Maxima

Member Credit: THE PRESENCE, EddyMaxx & DeusExMaxima

Unboxing Cattman photos from Eddy.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

This is a project that I will never forget. Actually, me and my mechanic had fun with the install.







This is why I had to purchase a set of Cattman Headers. The precat facing the front grille wasn’t so bad but definitely needed to be changed. Now, the precat facing the firewall was absolutely terrible. So terrible that the catalytic material completely jammed up my EGR valve pretty bad. Anyone that gets the  SES light> P1402 code try your hardest not to ignore it. Below are some pics of the EGR valve taken apart and cleaned. Along with some of the bad catalytic cone material break-up.




This is all the crap that came out the Egr valve alone.


I had my mechanic weld a High Flow Cat on that I purchased from Advance Auto Parts. I’m just waiting to weld on the o2 sensor bung and extend that last o2 sensor wire. Instead welding the High Flow Cat onto the Racingline Y-Pipe. We just welded it on 6 to 7 inches further back.

Welding on the High Flow Cat

Additional Photos from DeusExMaxima




 

Original Pricing Below (This is for reference purpose only. Pricing is from 2010):

  • Headers only, AT or MT version, no EGR port (07/08 Maximas) – $599.99 retail, $569.99 w/ org discount
  • Headers only, AT or MT version, with EGR port (04-06 Maximas, 05/06 Altimas) – $629.99 retail, $598.49 w/ org discount
  • Y-pipe only, AT or MT version, NO cat and NO “extra” O2 ports – $379.99 retail, $360.99 w/ org discount
  • Y-pipe only, AT or MT version, WITH high-flow all-metal cat and NO “extra” O2 ports – $579.99 retail, $550.99 w/ org discount
  • Y-pipe only, AT or MT version, WITH high-flow all-metal cat AND two O2 ports behind the cat – $599.99 retail, $569.99 w/ org discount
  • Header/Y-pipe system, AT or MT version, NO cat or “extra” O2 sensors – $939.99 retail, $892.99 w/ org discount; add $29.99 for EGR port
  • Header/Y-pipe system, AT or MT version, WITH high-flow all-metal cat and NO “extra” O2 ports – $1139.99 retail, $1082.99 w/ org discount; add $29.99 for EGR port
  • Header/Y-pipe system, AT or MT version, WITH high-flow all-metal cat and TWO O2 ports behind the cat – $1159.99 retail, $1101.99 w/ org discount; add $29.99 for EGR port

Note from Cattman:
Because installation of the headers requires removing the precats, its necessary to make the secondary O2 sensors happy (because they monitor pre-cat function) to avoid related error codes. In a 2004 Maxima, this can be done with an O2 simulator or by installing a main cat in the y-pipe, followed by two O2 ports for the secondary sensors. This is not confirmed, but it “appears” that an O2 simulator will not fool the ECU in 2005 and later Maximas and Altimas, so installing a cat and two O2 ports in the Y-pipe may be necessary to avoid a CEL.

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my6thgen 04-08

How to Replace a Broken Wheel Stud on Maxima

Member Credit: 3hree5ive0ero

I broke yet another wheel stud and instead of paying the dealership $70 to do it, I decided to do it myself this time. I spent $4.04 (for replacement stud) + $1.00 (for 6 washers). This sure beats paying somebody else to do the work and is definitely more gratifying.

Hopefully, this DIY helps you guys who need their wheel stud(s) replaced.

Level of difficulty:
1.5 out of 5 (5 being hardest)

Approximate install time:
45-90 minutes

Tools:
floor jack and jack stands
socket wrench/ratchet
14mm (9/16″) and 19mm (3/4″) sockets
wd-40 or pb blaster or liquid wrench
~6 washers
hammer or mallet

Replacing the wheel stud:
*I did the rear left side. The fronts should involve the same steps, but may or may not require different socket sizes.

1: Jack up the car high enough using the standard jack points (or frame) so you can slide under the car easily.

Click the image to open in full size.

2: Remove the wheel, exposing the studs, rotor, brake components, etc.

Click the image to open in full size.

3: Locate the two 14mm bolts holding the brake caliper in place and remove them.

*Spraying the bolts with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench makes the job much easier, especially if these bolts have not been removed recently.

**The bottom bolt cannot be taken off due to limited space behind it, so I used my floor jack to push up the suspension to create more space.
Click the image to open in full size.

4: Put the bolts some place where the grease won’t collect stuff off the ground.

Click the image to open in full size.

5: Rest the brake calipers so that it does not put any strain (put weight on) the brake lines. Take off the brake pads, if you haven’t already.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

6: Locate the two 19mm bolts holding the brake caliper bracket in place and remove them.

*Spraying the bolts with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench makes the job much easier, especially if these bolts have not been removed recently.

**I couldn’t take off the bolts by hand so I used the floor jack (while making sure the socket is on the bolt completely as to not strip it).

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

7: Put the bolts some place where you won’t lose them.

Click the image to open in full size.

8: Remove the brake caliper bracket and the rotor and set it aside. They should just slide right out.

Click the image to open in full size.

9: Spray wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench where the broken stud is and around it. Hammer away at the broken stud. (Optional: thread in an old/useless lug nut a little bit for added length and to prevent the stud from flying somewhere)

Click the image to open in full size.

10: Take out the broken stud.

Click the image to open in full size.

11: Spray the new stud down with wd-40/pb blaster/liquid wrench and put it through the hole where the broken stud was. Place ~6 washers on the stud and tighten the lug nut. Stop tightening when you can feel the head of the stud become flat like the other studs.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

12: You’re done! It should look like this.

Click the image to open in full size.

13: Now put everything back together in the opposite order that you took them out in.
[self explanatory]

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my6thgen 04-08

How to Fix Ezkoncepts LED Tails Abnormal Blinking or Only One Brake Light Working

Member Credit:  Max2damax

Basically what is going on is that the connector on the oem bulb is thicker that the connector the led tail lights, so all you have to do (make sure the car is off and you don’t have the any lights on) is close the pins on the stock connector and spread apart the pins on the lights, look at the pics.

And once again, make sure you have the black cable line up with the white black cable on the car!!!

BEFORE

AFTER (MAKE SURE THE LEADS DON’T STAY TOUCHING EACH OTHER AFTER YOU OPEN THEM)

Additional Pics Courtesy of Gollum67

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

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my5thgen 00-03

How to Install O2 Simulators on Nissan Maxima

Member Credit: Puppetmaster

This should work on all Cali spec Maximas. When dealing with codes P0420 and P0430, whether its voluntary removal of or just bad pre-cats, the O2 sim helps keep your SES/CEL/MIL light off and typically also prevents the ECU from storing any related codes. Rear 02 sensors only monitor if the cats work and do not affect the long or short trim fuel so basically, they do not affect drivability or the air/fuel ratio. Since the ECU is monitoring catalyst efficiency using the rear O2 sensors and the O2 sim simulates the proper voltage for the ECU to think that the cats are working. For more info, see www.o2sim.com.

Btw, I was throwing a CEL for P0037 and P0057 (I did the self diagnose procedure and counted the SES/CEL blinks) codes before, since my secondaries were completely unplugged and off the car. After installing the dual output sim and reseting the ECU (the procedure was a pain in my arse), the CEL is gone. I still have to drive it around some to make sure it stays off, so we’ll see how that works out.

And yes, my secondary O2s are just ziptied under my engine cover.

The wires tapped into are the wires BEFORE the connectors for the rear/downstream/secondary O2 sensors (so the length of wiring going from the ECM to the connectors). The dark blue connector connects to the WHITE wire shroud/harness and this is for the Bank 1 (rear bank) downstream O2 sensor. The green connector connects to the RED wire shroud/harness and is for the Bank 2 (front bank) downstream O2 sensor. Cut back the black wrap before each connector and you should see 4 wires:

Black: Ground
White: Signal
Red/Yellow: Power
Red/Blue: Heater

If you are going to simulate BOTH secondary O2 sensors, be sure to have bought a dual output sim with one black wire (ground), one red wire (power), and two white wires (signal).

The installation for a single output sim is the same, except you just tap into the signal of the sensor you want to simulate instead of both. 

On ONE O2 sensor harness:

Using a wire stripper, strip about half an inch to expose the copper wires under the ground and power wires.

Tap the black wire from the O2 sim to the black (ground) wire.

Tap the red wire from the O2 sim to the red/yellow (power) wire.

Cut the white signal wire and connect one of the white wires from the O2 sim to the end that is going back to the ECU.

On the other O2 sensor harness:

Cut the white signal wire and connect the second white wire from the O2 sim to the end that is going back to the ECU.

Heater wires:

Leave em intact and both secondaries plugged into their respective connectors, the ECU still needs to read these or it will throw a code for heater malfunction or something.

You can now either solder the joints and wrap them up in heatshrink or electrical tape, or you can clear the codes and start the car to see if the sim is doing its job before soldering. The yellow LED on the sim should be blinking when the car is on/running.

Almost:

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my6thgen 04-08

How to Rewire Driving/Fog Lights on 6thgen Maxima

Member Credit: BlackSpeed

The key to this install is find the wire (negative ground) on the stalk that controls the lights. Here is the deal, the ground isn’t active until the headlights are activated in return provides the ground for the coil on the relay. The two positives on the relay are always hot. We can get past that by putting a relay on the stalk that activates ground when the driving/fog light switch on the stalk is activated. (Please beware that the lights will be on when the high beams are activated).

Relay Location
Click the image to open in full size.

Next, the relay layout.

Click the image to open in full size.Here is a small outline of what has been and will be done:

1. Locate the Relay (Done)

2. Fab a 1/2 (Heat shrunk) wire extension from the relay to the original
socket (with female recept connected to the relay and male that plugs
into the original relay socket. The relay holder is soldered into the
board so you cant snip or tie a wire into the ground peg of the coil
(Done)

3. Find the two wires on the stalk that goes to/from light controller. Snip
those two wires and ground one. Connect the other to the negative
(Coil) of the relay that will be placed between the ground of the stalk
and main relay.

This is what will happen:
a. You turn the ignition on. The ground is closed going to the
main relay but not activated until you twist the stalk,
grounding the coil of the main relay which inturns
make the fogs pop on. In that moment, you will then clean
your pants after all the excitement that you will experience
for completing this project
Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

1. First, remove the three screws from underneath the steering column cover

Click the image to open in full size.

2.Next, press the tab on the top and bottom of the stalk and pull towards the door

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3.Remove the two screws from the stalk cover and lift the cover from the stalk

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

5. Next, you would stage your internal relay and attach wires as illustrated. I used a relay to only allow me to turn the fog/driving lights on while the key was switched to either the ACC or the on position due to the fact there is no alert to let you know if the lights are on if you turn the car off (drained battery)

Click the image to open in full size.

6. Here is a picture of where the fog/driving lights relay is located in the fuse box under the hood.

Click the image to open in full size.Click the image to open in full size.

I attached extensions that stretched from the relay to the relay holder. I did this because unlike the other generations, the fuse holder is soldered on the circuit board, not allowing you to tap into the wires.

4. Snip the Blue and green wire (04 6th gen) and solder one wire that will reach the relay in the fuse box and another that will be grounded to the column (shown in second picture.
Click the image to open in full size.

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my6thgen 04-08

04-08 Random 6thgen Maxima Gallery

Member Credit: 6thgenmaxima

Compilation of 6thgen Maximas from the 6thgenmaxima instagram page.

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