Seafoam is a 100% pure petroleum product for use in all gasoline and diesel type engines, both 2 and 4 cycle. OXYGEN SENSOR SAFE. Cleans dirty engine parts internally by removing harmful gums, varnish and carbon. WORKS AND PERFORMS INSTANTLY.
Removes moisture from oil crankcases and fuel tanks.
Stabilizes and conditions fuels. Use for engine storage.
Cure hesitations, stalls, pings and rough idle due to carbon buildup.
Helps pass emissions test. EPA Registered.
Important Note: Run the seafoam in your oil for NO MORE THAN 250 miles! Seafoam is very aggressive. Your next oil change will be black as satan’s heart and likely thicker than usual. I would not recommend running this oil very long in the car as your oil filter is going to have quite the time on its hands and the oil won’t be in the best of shape afterwards. I’ll say it again. change your oil less than 250 miles after you put seafoam in your crankcase! I recommend running it 100 miles, then changing your oil. that should be plenty for the seafoam to get most of the gunk out.
How to change your Cabin Air Filter
IMPORTANT NOTE: The in cabin air flow is TOP to Bottom, in the Video I incorrectly stated the direction of the arrow should point for an aftermarket filter! If using a NISSAN Filter they show an arrow in the middle of the filter stating this side up while off to the right of the filter it shows and arrow pointing down stating direction of Air Flow. For an aftermarket filter it has an arrow in the middle which shows an arrow with the direction of air flow so for aftermarket filters the filter needs to be turned over and the arrow face down. It won’t break anything so don’t freak out just wanted to point out the difference.
Are you noticing a lack of power when accelerating between 0-40 MPH? Is your car fine once you get passed 40 MPH? Did you scan for codes and nothing? Do you have a CVT?
If you answered YES to the questions above, then you may be experiencing a common issue on the CVT Nissan Maxima where you have a faulty ABS/VDC wheel speed sensor. Nissan has published Service Bulletin NTB11-089 to address this issue on the 2007-2012 Nissan Maxima.
You may think that your CVT is going bad? However, many have had their CVT transmissions replaced and still had the same problem. Start by checking your ABS/VDC wheel speed sensors first.
You can download the Service Bulletin by clicking the link below in case you want to show it to your Nissan Dealer or Mechanic.
The most likely cause of the above concern is an issue (sensor, wiring, or debris on sensor/rotor) with the output signal from an ABS/VDC wheel speed sensor.
A weak or erratic output signal from a wheel speed sensor can cause poor performance or lack of power from a stop, or at low speeds.
Do not replace the TCM or CVT unit when repair of a signal from a wheel speed sensor will resolve the issue.
How to Fix it?
Inspect and replace the ABS Wheel Speed Sensors. You may not need to do them all, but the sensors are fairly inexpensive. You have two options, Dealer or eBay. Seems like many folks have have had success with the eBay ones and you can get all four for $50 bucks shipped. Yeap that’s right ALL FOUR!
However, for all electrical parts we always recommend OEM.
Press the “Maintenance” button below the “Navigation Screen”. Once you’re at the “Oil Change” screen, hold the “Trip Reset” button for a few seconds and it will reset itself.
Do this when you are parked and not in motion because it won’t let you reset it.
Some people usually set this alert off. In the maintenance screen you can set service alert on/off. If the service alert .ON. key is selected, the information will be displayed when the engine oil and the tire rotation periods reach the preset driving distance.
Also note you can set your oil change intervals. You adjust higher or lower using the left and right buttons but most people keep at 3K.
You can see all these features through your maintenance screen.
Note:This is the button on your rear view mirror is you have this function.
To program your HomeLink Transceiver to operate a garage door, gate, or entry door opener, home or office lighting, you need to be at the same location as the device.
Note: Garage door openers (manufactured after 1996) have “rolling code protection”. To program a garage door opener equipped with “rolling code protection”…you will need to use a ladder to get up to the garage door opener motor to be able to access the “smart or learn” program button.
1. To begin, press and hold the 2 outer HomeLink buttons (to clear the memory) until the indicator light blinks slowly (after 20 seconds). Release both buttons.
2. Position the end of the hand-held transmitter 1-3 inches away from the HomeLink surface.
3. Using both hands, simultaneously press and hold both the HomeLink button you want to program and the hand-held transmitter button. DO NOT release the buttons until step 4 has been completed.
4. Hold down both buttons until the indicator light on the HomeLink flashes, changing from a “slow blink” to a “rapidly flashing blink”. This could take up to 90 seconds. When the indicator light flashes rapidly, both
buttons may be released. The rapidly flashing light indicates successful programming. To activate the garage door or other programmed device, press and hold the programmed HomeLink button – releasing when the device begins to activate.
5. If the indicator light on the HomeLink blinks rapidly for two seconds and then turns solid, HomeLink has picked up a “rolling code” garage door opener signal. You will need to proceed with the next steps to train the HomeLink to complete the programming which may require a ladder and another person for convenience.
6. Press and release the “smart” or “learn” program button located on the garage door opener’s motor to activate the “training mode”. This button is usually located near the antenna wire that hangs down from the motor. If the wire originates from under a light lens, you will need to remove the lens to access the program button.
So it was spring cleaning at the stereo shop I work at part time and I noticed a box I know I had seen at least twenty times before but never read. Whoa its a Farenheit rear view camera. SNATCHED (with permission of course). I already have the interior out of the car because I’m upgrading my sub and amplifiers so that just makes it easier to route the wires. Now the pics:
*ADDED – Camera model # – Farenheit LP-1CA
The rear view view camera -itself
2. The contents of the box
3. The contents sorted on the floor
4. Removed plate and old license plate holder
5. The inside of the rear, notice the large grommit in the center. This is where I ran the wire inside the car
6. Once the grommit is removed, you can cut a small slice in it to run the wires through
7. Once the wire from the frame is inside the car, it must be connected to a small box that was included with the frame. the image processing is done inside this box and then images are sent from the box to your headunit. Be sure to tuck it away so it doesn’t get crushed.
8. Reverse wire. Dont forget the reverse wire. Without this connection the Avic Z1 wont switch to rear camera when you shift into reverse. Pioneer included a specific wire for this connection so I tapped into the reverse light in the rear as opposed to finding the wire up front.
9. Once the wires is tapped it’s time for a little wire management.
10. Through the rear strut bar and out the compartment behind the passenger seat.
11. I ran the wires down the center, its a lot easier then pulling up the carpet. Time for the Z1 to come out again.
12. Find the wire for the reverse gear input and connect it to the wire that you tapped into the reverse light in the back.
13. Time to tap into some power for the camera. It doesnt really matter where you tap into the power, but since this camera has the power wires attached on the end of the cables that get attached to the head unit, I tapped the constant power from the head unit and the oem ground. The headunit has its own separate ground now. Here is a shot of the power wire prepped for install
14. The last connection, the actual video feed from the box mounted in the rear.
15. Turn on the car and test it out before securing down the head unit. Make sure all of your speakers and devices attached to the radio are functioning. It gets really tight behind the head unit and its easy to disconnect wires when reassembling. I had to change a setting on the headunit to accept camera feed for the rear.
Here are some pics of the images from the camera
With old school cheap a$$ pager on the ground for scale
with some needle nose pliers
From the side
The finished product
Enjoy.
BTW since the license plate camera frame is substantially thicker then your average frame, I had to replace the screws and the mounting clips. When I bought the car the stealership used some horrible little screws that stripped the nuts inside the oem clips. A quick trip to lowes for two new coarse thread phillips head bolts, two body clips and two plastic black screw caps did the trick.
Tools Needed:
– New Updated DVD
– Flathead Screwdriver (or knife)
Step 1:
– Its easiest to access the DVD player if the car is in Neutral so put the car in neutral and place the E-Brake.
Step 2:
– Open up the small door in front of the shifter. You will see black felt lining.
Step 3:
– Shine a light into the storage area and you will see there is a small notch on the pass side wall of the storage area. Place your flathead screwdriver (or knife) into that slot and pry towards you GENTLY. The door will pop out towards you.
Step 4:
– Make sure your car is in ACC mode and then hit the eject button on the DVD player. Remove DVD.
Step 5:
– Insert the Updated DVD into the drive. The Navigation screen will display “loading”. Then it will bring up your map!
Step 6:
– Replace the small felt door and you are all done!!
Also, for 04-05’s, The update DVD you need currently is Version 6.9. It is the update for 2010-2011 Map Update. For 06-08’s you need version 7.7. These are the 2011-2012 Map Update years.
The pictures are from a 350z but you can see its just about the same exact procedure for a 6thgen.
Tools required for ECU removal and re-installing.
1. 10 mm socket and ratchet (or equivalent)
2. Philip (cross) screw driver
3. Flat head screw driver
Before you start lower your driver and passenger side window down about 1-2 inches. You can lower it more, but at the very minimum 1-2 inches. This is done so when you disconnect your battery the doors will open smoothly.
Start by disconnecting the battery by removing the negative terminal using the 10 mm socket.
Next open up the passenger side door and remove the floor/doortrim by gently pulling upwards. Start from the rear and work towards the front.
Find the plastic nut that holds the side kick panel. Remove it by turning counter-clockwise. No tools are needed. It’s not on very tight. Put all loose hardware (nuts, bolts) into the tray behind the shifter.
Use the flat head screw driver (if need) and pry the front edge of theside kick panel outwards (towards the driver side) and remove the panel. Be careful of where you put the screwdriver. It CAN break the plastic.
Locate the screw under the kick panel. Use the philips (cross) screwdriver to remove it. You DO NOT need to remove the 10 mm nut.
Now pull out the cup holder in the dash area and insert the flat screw driver into it. Gently pry downward on the inner clip and pull out the cup holder. The clip is extremely hard to see, trust me it’s there. (See pictures below.)
Hidden behind the cup holder is a 10 mm bolt. Remove it with the10mm socket and ratchet.
Start from the bottom right corner and pull out the sub-dash panel. It is held on by several clips. Work your way counter-clockwise until all clips are pulled out of their holders. The panel drops down and pulls out.
Look up underneath the dash and you will now see the 350Z’s ECU (Engine Control Unit).
To disconnect the harness from the ECU,simply squeeze the tab together (at the end of the connector) and gently pull it down and over. The connector will unhook itself. Pull the connector down and leave it hanging.
There are now 2 more nuts remaining until the ECU comes out. Look up towards the ECU and you will see a 10mm nut and another one towards the firewall. Remove them and put the nuts in the tray behind the shifter. (Pictures below)
The ECU should come down easily with the bracket. Remove the bracket from the ECU and put all the nuts back onto the bracket. The ECU is now ready to be sent in for Flash Programming.
These are all the parts you should have left over for the removal of the ECU.
Installation is in the reverse order. After the ECU and all panels are installed. There is no need to reset the ECU.
My SES light came on the other day and the code is indicating O2 sensor Bank 1, Sensor 1. That is the bank that is on the back side of the engine, against the firewall. Sensor 1 is the sensor in the exhaust manifold before the cat.
BTW… I priced this sensor at the various auto parts dealers and found the following:
Obviously I was looking for the exact replacement and not a universal fit that I was going to have to splice wires on. Autozone, Advance and Napa all listed the exact same Bosch part number (17264) but their prices varied by nearly $100!
I ordered mine from Napa but after a week they said they were out of stock and so was the manufacturer (Bosch). Advance Auto and Autozone both gave me the same information. Sadly, I had to break down and purchase the sensor from the stealership.
My SES light came on and the code indicated Bank 1, Sensor 1. Bank 1 is the side of the engine closest to the firewall. Bank 2 is on the front, closest to the radiator.
Sensor 1 is in the exhaust manifold, before the cat. Sensor 2 would be after the cat.
To do the job, you will need a few simple hand tools including a ratchet with extensions, 10mm, 12mm and 14mm sockets, a standard screwdriver, needlenose pliers, and an O2 sensor socket. I used a crowsfoot design O2 sensor socket because a straight O2 socket was not deep enough. If you have a strut tower bar like I have, you will need an allen wrench and 14mm wrench to remove that.
Again, as I stated, my bad sensor was in the bank 1 exhaust manifold. In order to gain access, I had to remove the hood, strut tower bar, windshield wiper arms, plastic cowl panel and metal cowl panel.
When removing the hood, have someone assist you in lifting it off. It is a good idea to mark your hinges with a paint pen so you can align the hood properly when reinstalling it.
After removing the hood, pull the plastic caps from the wiper arm mounts. Underneath, there will be a nut you need to remove. After removing the nut, the arms will not just slip off. I used a small crowbar to pull up on the wiper arm while I tapped the bolt with a hammer.
The plastic cowl panel is held in place with 4 plastic fasteners that just push in place. To remove them, I pried up the edge with a screwdriver and used a pair of needlenose pliers to pull them out. Do this carefully or you may break the fasteners off.
Once you get the 4 fasteners out, lift gently on the plastic cowl panel. There are several white clips underneath that will pop out if you lift carefully. After you get it loose, you can lay it on the front of the engine. There is no need to disconnect the windshield washer lines.
Under the plastic cowl panel there is a metal cowl panel that is held in place by twelve, 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and lift out the panel.
After the metal cowl panel is removed, you will have access to the O2 sensor.
Disconnect the connector first. To do this, you will need to remove the grey locking tab, then pull the connector apart. The portion that is attached to the sensor lead is stuck on a mounting tab.
After you have disconnected the wire, use an O2 socket to remove the sensor from the exhaust manifold.
When you have removed the old sensor, reverse the process for installation.
Important notes:
1. If your new O2 sensor did not come with anti-seize on the threads, put some on. Otherwise, you will never get it out later.
2. DO NOT DROP THE NEW SENSOR! If you do, you will damage it and you will have to replace it.
3. To clear the SES light, disconnect the battery for 20-30 minutes to reset the ECU. Or, you can take it to Autozone or some other parts dealer and they will clear it for you.
4. For all you flamers that want to tell me that my engine compartment is dirty, don’t worry, I detailed it when I was done.
I hope this helps. If nothing else, you can see that you can do this yourself without having to pay the dealer $85.00 per hour to do the job for you.
Over time the brake system can take on air as the effectiveness of the brake fluid decreases with age. Air can also enter the system from a leaky brake hose, a bad connection on the brake caliper, during any maintenance when a brake line is removed, or if the fluid reservoir is allowed to run dry.
Air in the line makes the brake pedal feel mushy, and bleeding the brakes is the solution to that embarrassing mushy pedal feel. While we’re on the topic, if you’re not happy with the factory brake feel even after the system is properly bled, replacing the factory brake lines with more sturdy steel braided lines can greatly increase pedal firmness and brake feel.
Ttools/Supplies:
Lug wrench
14mm wrench
Jack
Clear Jar
Small hose at least 6″ long. Approximate diameter of bleed valve. The tighter fit the better. Auto parts store should have small vacuum hose that will work.
Fresh jar of brake fluid (do not use a previously opened container since brake fluid takes on moisture over time.
An assistant or speed bleeders.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place the car on level ground, chuck the rear wheels, and make sure car in park (or in gear if a manual). Make sure parking brake ISN’T on. If you have ABS, remove the ABS fuse.
2. Pump the brakes multiple times to release any residual vacuum in the lines.
3. Remove the brake fluid reservoir cap and fill the reservoir with fresh brake fluid. Check this level often as you bleed the brakes. Never let it get too low because if it gets empty it introduces air back into the brake system and you have to start all over!
Bleed the brakes in the following order:
1. Passenger rear
2. Driver front
3. Driver rear
4. Passenger front
4. Remove the rubber boot on top of the bleeder screw. Attach a hose to the bleed screw and insert the end of the hose into a clear jar that is partially filled with brake fluid.
The bleed screw with the rubber boot still on:
Bleed screw
Hose attached to bleed screw:
Hose attached to caliper bleeder screw
5. Have your girlfriend press firmly on the brake (you’re killing time reading this on the internet so you obviously have one…right?). While the brake is depressed, loosen the bleed screw. If your girlfriend freaks out at this point because the pedal just fell to the floor, throw an empty beer can at her and tell her to quiet down. Or, if you’re not much for the single life, you can be the nice guy. “Honey, that it is completely normal. I just loosened the bleeder screw which allows the brake pressure to escape…oh, and I sure like those new strappy shoes of yours.” Totally your call on this one.
Anyway, back on topic. When you loosen the bleed screw with the brake depressed, you will see brake fluid flow through the hose and into the jar. Watch the tip of the hose for air bubbles – this is a sign that air is in the system. When the flow of fluid stops, tighten the bleed screw and tell your girlfriend (assuming she’s still there) to release the brake. Repeat this process (press brake, loosen bleeder, check for bubbles, close bleeder, release brake) until there are no air bubbles released, only fluid.
If you mouthed off above and lost your assistant, don’t worry, this step can also be done alone if you buy a set of speed bleeders.
6. Check the brake fluid level in the reservoir and top off as needed. Take care not to overfill or spill because brake fluid is very hard on paint. As mentioned above, never let the reservoir get empty or it will introduce air into the system and you’ll have to start over. And let’s be honest, this job is barely enough fun to do once.
7. Repeat steps 4 -6 at each wheel in the order outlined above. For the front brakes, if you’re feeling lazy you can get away with not removing the wheels at all by turning the tires toward the brake you want to work on. It takes a skinny arm or a strange angle to get a wrench on the bleed screw, but it can be done.
A lazy man bleeding the front brake:
Bleeding the front brakes with the wheels on
8. When complete, do yourself a favor and double check that every bleed screw is tight. Remember, a loose bleed screw means no brake pressure and brake fluid spraying everywhere like a garden hose. And hey, that’s no fun. Well, unless you’re the lucky onlooker.
Seriously though, test the brakes on a flat surface before running out and terrorizing the neighborhood.
There are many rotor and brake pad options for the Maxima. Check out the brake choice how-to if you’re having problems deciding. In this how-to, I install Hawk HPS pads and Brembo blank rotors, though the process will be the same for any OEM replacements.
The new equipment:
Tools/Supplies:
Lug wrench
Hammer – the bigger the better!
Socket wrench
14mm, 17mm & 19mm sockets
Rotors
Brake Pads
Disc Brake Caliper compressor (aka caliper spreader) tool (available on loan from many autopart stores)
Hanger
Wire Brush
Piece of scrap wood (optional, useful if rotor is rusted on)
Brake grease (typically available at the front counter of most autopart stores)
Brake Cleaner
Jack
Jack stands
Wheel chuck
Old rag
Torque wrench
Turkey baster (optional, to remove extra brake fluid from reservoir)
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Place car on level ground. This is very important since you’re removing the brakes! Chuck the rear wheels and pull parking brake while doing the front wheels. Jack up the front of the car using the jack point outlined in the manual.
2. Remove wheel using lug wrench
3. Remove the 3 17mm bolts that attach the caliper. There are two on top and one toward the bottom of the caliper bracket.
NOTE: Do NOT remove the bolt that connects the brake line to the caliper. This will introduce air into the brake system and you will have to bleed the brakes to get the air out. The brakes will be very spongy until this is resolved.
So keep the brake line connected and hang the caliper to avoid strain on the line as described in the next step.
Removing the top brake caliper bolt:
4. The caliper should easily slide right off the rotor after removing the above 3 bolts. Hang the caliper with an old coat hanger from the top of the spring. Never let the caliper hang from the brake line – it can damage the brake line and cause a leak.
Caliper hanging from hanger:
5. Remove the two 19mm bolts on the back of the caliper mounting bracket.
Two bolts circled in red:
6. NOTE: This step and any steps below relating to the rotor, only apply if you’re replacing the rotors as well. If the brake pedal pulsates when you press on the brake, you might consider replacing the rotors as well. This is typically noticable when braking harder at faster speeds such as when exiting the highway on an offramp.
Remove the rotor. Depending on the age of the vehicle and climate, the rotor may be rusted on. My Maxima was only 3 years old and my rotor was rusted on tight. To remove a rusted rotor there are a number of options:
Apply a liberal amount of WD-40 to back of the rotor and inside the lug holes on the front. Allow to soak. After a few minutes of soaking, use a large hammer and strike the back of the rotor in various locations to help dislodge it. If you are removing the rotor so it can be machined at a shop, be sure to use a piece of old scrap wood so you don’t damage the back of the rotor by striking it directly with a hammer. I started with a rubber mallet but eventually had to use a large steel hammer to knock my rotor loose.
Alternatively, you can use the holes on the caliper mounting bracket to help push the rotor off. This requires a 4″ long, 1/2″ wide bolt with a matching washer and nut.
7. Open brake fluid reservoir and wrap an old rag around it to catch any spill.
8. Compress the caliper pistion using a C-clamp or Caliper piston compressor tool. The C-clamp method only works on the front brakes since the rear piston must be twisted as it is compressed (the piston caliper tool naturally does this). While there are a variety of piston compressor tools, the general premise is to place the flat metal plate inside the caliper and twist the bolt until the strike plate (which rests against the piston) presses the piston back into the caliper. See the picture below. If you choose to use a C-clamp, place the old pad against the caliper piston so the c-clamp doesn’t press directly against the piston and mar the metal.
NOTE: As you compress the piston, the brake fluid level will rise. Keep an eye on the brake fluid level and siphon out any extra fluid or cleanup any spill that occurs. I recommend siphoning out some of the fluid since brake fluid is hard on paint.
Brake caliper compression tool kit:
9. Note the orientation of the pads. It’s also good idea to do one wheel at a time so you can always reference the other wheel if you have any question on how to orient the pads on reinstall.
Only one of the two bolts that need removed are visible here:
10. Remove the two 19mm caliper mounting bracket bolts (the cradle that holds the pads).
11. If the old rotor was stuck, use a wire brush to clean the hub face. Optionally, you can apply a small amount of grease to the hub face to keep the new rotor from sticking sometime down the road.
12. Before installing the new rotor, it’s important to clean it off with rubbing alcohol and brake cleaner or rubbing alcohol. Rotors are shipped from the factory with a protective coating to keep them from rusting before sale. Use a liberal amount of brake cleaner and give it a good scrub until it no longer feels like it has a film on it. Once clean, install the new rotor by sliding it over the lugs.
New rotor installed:
13. Remove the old brake pads from the caliper mounting bracket and clean the shims and hardware thoroughly with brake cleanup. Use a clean rag to scrub off deposits. Make sure this hardware is smooth and clean. The pads slide back and forth in this hardware so it’s important to make sure the path is smooth as possible. Once clean, dry them off.
14. Apply grease to all the touch points in the channel where the pads sit. Apply a liberal amount of grease on the back of the brake pads and reinstall the shims. Apply grease to the points on the caliper mounting hardware where the pad will sit.
Apply grease to the following points on the brake pad. This is the back pad so the shim is smaller. Apply a liberal amount of grease to the back of the pad wherever the shim and the pad meet.
Apply grease to the following areas on the brake pad
15. Reinstall caliper mounting bracket and torque bolts to 53-72 ft. lbs. Insert pads back into caliper mounting bracket and slide caliper over the pads.
16. Reattach caliper to caliper mounting bracket and tighten caliper mounting bolts to 16-23 ft lbs.
Completed job:
17. Check brake fluid level. Add fluid from a brand new bottle of brake fluid as needed. It’s important not to use brake fluid that has already been opened because brake fluid soaks up moisture overtime reducing its effectiveness.
18. Reinstall wheel, remove wheel chucks, and lower car.
19. IMPORTANT: You must bed the brake pads after installation. This is very important to help avoid squeaking down the road. The specific bedding procedure is typically provided with the brake pads, but the general rule is to drive around 45 and brake hard, releasing the brake right before coming to a stop. Repeat this process 4 or 5 times.
20. While not required, it’s a good idea to bleed the brakes after doing a brake job.
21. The pictures above are for the front brakes, but doing the back is just the same with a couple minor differences:
Remove the 14mm bolt holding the mount for the emergency brake cable to get the upper part of the caliper off.
The lower piece of caliper has 17mm bolts.
The piston must be turned clockwise to be compressed. Make sure the end of the caliper compressor is inserted properly into the grooves in the piston so the tool actually twists the piston as it compresses.
Hook the emergency brake cable back onto the spring mechanism before reinstalling the upper caliper piece. It’s hard to hook up after the caliper is assembled.
To get the rear caliper back over the rotor, you must turn the cylinder so the nub lines up with the groove it slides into.
Edit: Here’s a few more notes submitted from reader ajahearn:
Some vented rotors are directional so people need to pay attention to the one to install.
Slotted/drilled/dimpled/etc rotors are supposed to be non-directional but some manufacturers want you to install them such that the first dimple/part of the slot/etc that reaches the pad needs to be at the top with the idea that any grabbing will pull the pads inward toward the hub and not force them upward away from the hub.
The caliper should never be left hanging from the brake line – it should always be supported by a hanger or bungy cord.
For the rear piston, the boot may start to bind and make it harder to compress/rotate. To resolve, occasionally back off (counter clockwise) to get the boot to straighten and then start again. And opening the bleed valve makes it considerably easier to turn the piston back in. Of course you need to have a hose to prevent the fluid from spraying
