Ok so I have a Fujita CAI on my 04 SE, but my splash guard was broken a few winters ago, which a) I am too cheap to buy a new one, and b) makes getting at my air filter a LOT easier, but it also lets water in if I go through a car wash with and under body sprayer, so to remedy this, I built my own heat/water shield, and this is how I did it.
What you will need:
– Sheet metal or equivalent
– Rivet gun and rivets
– Drill bit sized for your rivets
– Something to cut the metal (snips, saw, cutting wheel)
– Vise
– Paint (optional)
– Grinder (optional)
I did the initial cutting before I figured I should take pics, but mainly this is how I did it.
Step 1:
First you must cut your main shield portion, I don’t have measurements but this is easily figured out by holding your filter next to the metal and seeing how tall you want your shield, once you cut it to that size, wrap it around your filter and see how far around you want it to go.
Step 2:
Now you need to cut the strips to rivet onto it, I would recommend starting with at least a 3 inch strip, mine were just shy of that and I wish I had made some longer ones, so I could put two rivets in each, but alas, I didn’t.
Step 3:
Once you have your strips, put them in a vice and then bend them into an sort of Z shape, with the end that attaches under the hose clamp only a slight bit larger than the width of the hose clamp, and if you can, put a slight bend on the very tip so it can’t slip out of the clamp. Test the fit by hooking the strips into the clamp while on the filter and hold the shield up before the next step.
Step 4:
Drill your holes and rivet the strips to the heat shield. Make sure the drill bit is the correct size for the rivets you have, if the drill bit came from a case where they slide into a metal index, you can test the rivet but sliding it in, you do not want any play for a secure fit.
You should now have something like this:
And if you please, you are done! However, I was not please, so I painted mine with truck bed liner. Also note I rounded off all edges with a bench grinder since I used 1/8 inch aluminum and a cutoff wheel on an angle grinder to cut my pieces, which left nasty edges.
Total cost of this was $0.00, I used an old sign backing for the aluminum, borrowed the rivet gun/rivets, and had the bed liner in the shop.
OK, the Injen CAI mounting SUCKS, driving vibration first took out the rubber boot mounting screw, I reinforced the mounting and the freaken weld broke… DAMM… So some of you might have this (see pic below)
My Fix, about $20 clams:
Parts Used:
1- ROL Exhaust heavy duty tail pipe hanger.
2- 2 RE Works High Grade Aluminum Quick Release Racing Clamps
The task: Using a vice, I bent the Exhaust bracket in a 90 degree angle and attached it to the lower engine mounting bolt just below the Injen, using 1 clamp, I added a new forward midbody support clamp by hooking it around the Exhaust Hanging bracket U-hook, (The Rubber vibration spacer allowed it to twist nicely into place and is 50 times stronger than the stock shock mount).
Another benefit; the bracket is now mounted under the CAI and eliminated all stress on the mounting hardware. I also replaced the rear bracket (not required, however stronger), tightened down all. Job time, 17 minutes…
This would be great time to change the spark plugs as well.
Remove the upper intake manifold. Once the manifold has been removed it will look like the picture shown below:
STOP EVERYTHING! PLACE RAGS INTO THE CHAMBERS.
If a bolt is dropped into there you have big problems.
Using a 6mm socket , remove the intake studs on both sides
Using a 3mm allen head bit install the new intake studs provided with the kit
Proceed to the two hoses that were removed from the throttle body. using the brass hose mender join the hoses as shown to perform a throttle body bypass. this will help in removing unwanted heat produced from the hot coolant out of the throttle body
Due to the increase width from the spacers the rear manifold stay bracket must be removed using a 12mm socket and ratchet
Using a 12mm socket remove elbow and stock gasket from the manifold
Apply the thickness of a nickle coin of rtv gasket maker to both sides of the elbow spacer and reinstall using the 4 hex head bolts and lock washers provided in the kit.
Move on to the throttle body spacer
Using the white caps provided in the kit , cap off the 2 metal pipes going into the throttle body as shown
Using a 5mm allen head bit , remove the throttle body from the elbow. do not touch the valves on the throttle body. this will cause a idle malfunction and check engine light that can only resetted by the nissan dealership.
Remove OEM gasket and apply the RTV gasket maker to both sides of the throttle body spacer. reinstall using the allen head bolts and lock washer as shown. remember the location of the bracket that was removed from the throttle body
Onto the main manifold spacer
Apply RTV gasket maker to both sides of the spacer and center the manifold onto it. the intake studs will guide you. using the 3 hex bolts and lock washers tighten the manifold.
Reuse the oem intake stud nut and apply them onto the new intake studs on both sides
Check that everything looks as shown
Wait 45 mins for the RTV gasket maker to set.
Reconnect all the hardware and connectors that was removed to uninstall the upper manifold.
Reconnect the battery.
Peform an ECU Reset by following these steps
1. Turn ignition switch on and wait about 3 seconds.
Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking. (here is where i think you can get a code from this.)
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car.
Perform an idle relearn by follwing these steps
Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
Turn ignition switch ‘ON’ and wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition switch ‘OFF’ wait at least 10 seconds.
Turn ignition switch ‘ON’ and wait at least 2 seconds.
Turn ignition switch ‘OFF’ wait at least 10 seconds.
Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning” .
Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
Turn ignition switch ‘ON’.
Turn ignition switch ‘OFF’ wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
Turn ignition switch ‘OFF’ and wait at least 10 seconds.
Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch ‘ON’ and wait 3 seconds.
Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
Fully release the accelerator pedal.
Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
Start engine and let it idle.
Wait 20 seconds.
Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete.
I did the rear door first and the rear doors are a lot easier than the front doors are to do. The rear doors will take around 45 minutes to an hour and the front doors about two hours each, so probably allow a good day for the install. On a scale of 1 to 10 for a mod like this I would say it would be about a 4 for difficulty.
Do not post reply to this thread until I have all my posts uploaded, I have approximately 19 pictures with the details. I will have to post four times to get all information up.
Materials:
1. 4- 5mm 13,000mcd LED’s (purchased mine from eBay seller Ivehk for 3.99 plus 6.00 shipping for 50 pieces and resistors)
2. 3/32″ or 1/8″ polyolefin heat shrink tubing
3. 2 wires per door, approximately 2 1/2′ per wire per door
4. Solder
5. Electrical tape
6. 2 part epoxy glue
7. Butyl tape (get at glass store) or silicone sealant
Tools:
1. Ratchet, 10mm socket and extension
2. T-27 torx bit or 5/32″ allen wrench
3. Small flat blade screwdriver
Start with front doors and rear will be same process but easier. Pictures are all of the front door. With small screwdriver pry at marked locations below to remove cap at inside door handle, chrome strip on door panel starting at front and working to the back, window controls starting at rear edge. Lift window controls up, unplug connections and set aside all pieces.
Remove the three 10mm bolts at marked locations on door panel below. At the bottom of the door panel there is a lip, grab panel at bottom and give a quick jerk toward you and all door panel clips will release.
Now lift the door panel upward and off of door, lean panel to you to remove the latch cables behind the panel and disconnect all wiring to the door panel. Pull cables away from panel to unclip them and then separate from the handle. Set panel aside.
Before removing bolts to the inner panel, apply tape onto the outside of window over top of door and then to inside of window to make sure the window does not drop (do this at least at two locations). Remove all bolts marked below and the four nuts. Disconnect clips holding wiring to inner panel. Wiring running through the panel, push grommet through towards the door side and remove panel and set aside.
Look behind the outer door lock inside of door cavity and you will see a yellow clip on the lock rod, roll the clip towards the front of the door and it will unclip the rod from connection.
On the back edge of the door you will see a black plastic plug, pry it off of door and with the T-27 torx bit or the 5/32″ allen wrench remove the bolt under the plug. There are two plastic clips that will hold the bolt in keeping it from falling in the door cavity.
While pulling bolt tight to the clips, reach around to the outside of door and wiggle the small section of the door handle (with key hole on driver door) and remove from door.
Next, take the door handle and slide it towards the rear of the door until it stops and then pull outward and remove.
Drill a 1/4″ hole in handle where shown below. Glue LED into the hole you drilled and connect wiring to LED.
On one wire (preferably the ground side [large element in LED]) splice wire and install the 400-470 ohm resistor. Install heat shrink.
With the butyl tape or silicone seal the back side of the LED and wire connection to the LED.
Start installing the handle back into the door, inserting the wiring first. You will have to work with the rubber gasket behind the handle to get it to seat back right. With butyl tape or adhesive fasten the wiring to inside of door cavity leaving a small loop at the handle so working the handle does not put pressure over time on the LED connection.
Route wiring behind bracing in door cavity and finish adhering wiring to door skin leaving plenty of clearance for the window to raise and lower. Punch a small hole in the grommet and run wires through grommet.
Strip about a 3/8″ section off of each wire to the courtesy lights and check with your wiring from LED to get proper polarity(LED will only illuminate one way). Solder LED wiring to stripped sections and tape with electrical tape.
Kam wanted to see where all clips were on the door panel.
There may be times where you are wondering these two things:
Why doesn’t my car beep when I lock the doors?
How do I get rid of that annoying horn beep when I lock my doors. Well below are your answers.
These are the two modes that you can set through your remote:
1) Hazard mode where only your hazards flash when you lock the car with the remote. (No Horn Honks)
2) Hazard and horn mode where the horn honks.
To switch between modes:
Push the LOCK and UNLOCK buttons simultaneously for more than 2 seconds to switch from one mode to the other. When pushing the buttons to set hazard indicator only mode, the hazard indicator flashes 3 times. When pushing the buttons to set hazard indicator and horn mode, the hazard indicator flashes once and the horn chirps once.
In Simple Terms:
You press lock and unlock simultaneously on the fob, until you see the indicator lights on the car flash 3 times. This indicates the horn mode is now switched off. If you do it again it will switch horn mode on.
Please Note: If you change the horn beep or the lamp flash feature with the keyfob, the mode will not be changed with the display. Use the keyfob to return to the previous mode and re-enable the display control.
Lift the front end of the car about two feet, high enough for you to get underneath and have
easy access. I used ramps. Please make sure car is lifted safely so there’s no serious injuries.
Drain oil from transmission, use an Allen key to remove plug.
Remove battery & battery plate. You will be able to see the upper bolts.
Also remove this bracket.
Now you are ready to start unbolting cover, but first spray Torx bolts with WD40, wait a few minutes before loosen them. The manual tells you not to reuse them, well let me tell you they cost $8 each at Nissan, I reused them. I cleaned them up with wire brush and break fluid cleaner.
Tip: A couple of the bottom ones were a little more worn from the weather, so when reinstalling put them on top.
From the picture below remove suction cover bolts first. (this cover has a gasket that’s very brittle, it will most likely brake if you try to handle it. Tip have a new one on hand when reinstalling).
I strongly recommend having a second person working with you, one can be underneath the car and the other on top. I had more then one person working with me so we chose to unbolt first then to disconnect wires, if you are by yourself then I would recommend disconnecting before unbolting them just like on the service manual.
From underneath take out bottom and center bolts first, then from the top take out upper bolts, be sure to hold on to valve. You will notice they are not to tight, remember this when reinstalling not to over tighten them, if you have a torque wrench better for you. I didn’t have one so i just used same pressure to tighten them.
Once you pull the valve out, two small washers will either fall off or stay behind. from my photo one fell right away and the other eventually fell off also. these two washers were in excellent condition, so i reused them. In order for these two washers to stay up use Vaseline when you reinstalling new valve body.
Here you will start to disconnect all the wires from the solenoids, the S1 – S5 were easy to disconnect, but the PS1 – PS3 were a pain to disconnect.
All the connectors are color coded and measure to length. when you reconnect them it’s hard to make a mistake.
Remove bolt from sensor.
Installing new valve:
Place two washers with a bit of Vaseline on them back first, then while holding control valve assembly, connect the parking lock rod sub assembly to manual valve lever sub assembly. Then make sure you put the right bolts were they belong (what I did was, as I took one out I placed them on a towel picturing the valve, this made it easy to reinstall in order). Don’t over tight them, remember how they felt when you took them out.
Connect all the wires, again they are color coded and measured to length, but be careful. Make sure they are all connected.
Follow these instructions to put cover back.
Wait an 1 hr for RTV silicone to cure before putting new oil. I lost 3 1/2 qts of matic k oil, so i replaced 3 1/2 qts of new Matic k oil. check for leaks, tighten accordingly.
WARNING: It is not recommended that you attempt this procedure without basic mechanical skills and knowledge of automobiles. Always take safety precautions seriously when working around an automobile. A simple mistake may cause you physical harm and/or death. Improper installation may cause mechanical damage to the vehicle.
Materials needed:
o Remanufactured Valve Body
o Permatex Ultra Black RTV Silicone Gasket Maker
o 4 Qts Recommended Transmission Fluid
o WD-40
o Torque Wrench
o Ratchet
o Extensions
o Metric Socket Set
o Phillips Screwdriver
o Pocket Size Flat Head Screwdriver
o Regular Flat Head Screwdriver
o Needle Nose Pliers
o 10mm Hex Bit
o T-40 Torx Bit
o Digital Camera and/or Notepad
Always make sure you have a clean work environment with plenty of room to move around. A confined space is not recommended for this job.
We take no responsibility for damages done to yourself, others, or your vehicle.
INSTALL AT YOUR OWN RISK
For Top Access (Bottom and Side Access Also Required):
Remove the negative terminal from battery first, and then remove the positive terminal, both with 10mm socket.
Remove the battery clamp and battery.
Remove the fuse block on the left side of the battery plate.
Remove plastic battery tray to expose battery plate.
Remove 12mm bolts (5). Unclip wire harness from plate bracket. Use WD-40, if needed. Remove battery plate.
You will find a bracket underneath that supports the battery plate. Remove 12mm bolts (2) and bracket. You’ll need to unclip another wire harness. The valve body cover is just under this bracket and is painted black.
It is a good idea to hang the fuse block on the driver’s side of the car out of the way.
For Bottom and Side Access (Top Access Also Required):
Place the car on jack stands and remove the driver’s side front wheel.
Remove theleft wheel splash guard by carefully pry the center of each clip and remove the entire clip. DO NOT PULL THE CENTER COMPLETELY OUT OF CLIPS.
You will be able to see the bottom of the valve body cover
Remove the engine splash guard (connected to bottom of front bumper and suspension cross member) by removing the clips on the rear of guard. Carefully pry the center of each clip and remove the entire clip. DO NOT PULL THE CENTER COMPLETELY OUT OF CLIPS.
Remove the 10mm screws supporting the front of the engine splash guard and lower guard.
You should see the very bottom of the valve body cover and ATF cooler.
Remove Valve Body Cover:
Apply WD-40 to T-40 bolts (9) securing the valve body cover.
Drain transmission fluid using a 10mm hex driver into a large drain pan.
Expect 3.5 to 4 quarts of fluid to drain. Keep pan handy for valve body cover removal.
Remove T-40 bolts (9) from valve body cover. THE BOLT NEXT TO ATF COOLER IS DIFFICULT TO ACCESS!
Place drain pan underneath valve body cover. Carefully pry around edges of cover until the seal is broken. Expect fluid to escape from behind valve body cover. Remove cover, exposing the valve body assembly.
Remove Valve Body:
Important: It is a good idea to write down or photograph the connector positions and colors. In this example you will see that the rebuilt valve body has different colored connectors.
Begin by disconnecting the 5 lower solenoids using a small flathead screwdriver to push in the tab near the base of each while lightly pulling the connector out.
Remove the 10mm bolt and sensor retainer.
This is the retainer. After removing the bolt, it will slide off the sensor. DO NOT LOSE THIS RETAINER.
Carefully pull the sensor straight out of the valve body. An o-ring will be attached. DO NOT DAMAGE THIS SENSOR OR O-RING.
Disconnect the top three solenoids using a small flathead screwdriver. A pocket clip type flathead is too long to remove the middle of the three solenoids. In this case, the handle was cut to reduce the overall length.
The top solenoids are difficult to remove. DO NOT BREAK TABS ON CONNECTORS. Begin by inserting the screwdriver into the connector as shown with light force. Pivot the handle of the screwdriver outward while allowing the tip to dig in and pull the connector out. GO SLOW AND BE CAREFUL. This solenoid was removed from the valve body to demonstrate connector removal.
Here are the top three solenoid connector locations.
Carefully move the wire harness out of the way to prepare for valve body removal. Remove the remaining 10mm bolts in numerical order. Note that bolt 1 was removed with the sensor retainer. When removing bolt 7 be sure to catch the cover and gasket. They will be reused during installation. You will need to support the valve body while removing bolts 8 and 9.
Carefully pull the valve body away from the transmission and out through the top side of engine compartment. Pay careful attention to the manual valve, and control arm located at the very top of the valve body.
You have successfully removed your defective valve body.
Clean Valve Body Cover, Bolts and Transmission:
Now would be a good time to clean the valve body cover, bolts and mating surface on the transmission. Make sure all gasket material is removed and both surfaces are oil free and dry.
While cleaning the transmission surface, make sure that both o-rings are still inside transmission. DO NOT LOSE THESE O-RINGS. If they fall out, use a small amount of petroleum jelly to adhere them back inside transmission.
Preparing Replacement Valve Body:
Based on the car’s programming, your valve body may have a spring under the one of its valves. It is important to check for this spring’s existence and transfer to the new valve body, if required. If your valve body does not have a spring, check the new valve body for the presence of a spring and remove if required. MAKE SURE YOUR NEW VALVE BODY’S CONFIGURATION MATCHES THE OLD VALVE BODY. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE COVER GASKET.
If valve pops up when cover and gasket are removed, a spring is present. IF VALVE APPEARS TO HAVE NO SPRING, MAKE SURE IT IS NOT STUCK.
Your replacement valve body will be shipped with the three upper solenoid/valve assemblies removed to prevent damage. They need to be installed into the replacement valve body.
Begin by removing the 10mm and 8mm bolts and brackets. The 8mm bolt secures a two piece bracket. The brackets keep the three solenoid/valve assemblies shown above in place.
Carefully insert the three solenoid/valve assemblies in the positions shown below. DO NOT INSTALL IN WRONG POSITION. EACH ASSEMBLY IS DIFFERENT. Install valve assembly brackets along with 10mm and 8mm bolts. DO NOT OVER-TIGHTEN. Your replacement valve body is ready to install.
Install Replacement Valve Body:
Take time to identify the valve body bolts. There are three types: 2 Short, 3 Long, and 4 Medium. All are 10mm.
Begin by inserting the top two bolts, labeled 1 and 2 in the picture below to hold the valve body in place. Carefully insert valve body into transmission, making sure it is lined up properly and seating onto o-rings. Pay careful attention to the manual valve, and control arm located at the very top of the valve body. The control arm must be reinserted into lever on transmission. The lever has been drawn to demonstrate proper positioning.
Hand-tighten bolts labeled 1 and 2 enough to secure valve body to transmission, and then install bolts 3 through 9 in numerical order. Be sure to reinstall cover and gasket under bolts 3 and 9. Before installing bolt 9, carefully insert sensor between bolt 7 and 9. Slide sensor bracket around sensor to hold in place, then install bolt. Lightly snug each bolt in numerical order with a ratchet, and then torque each bolt to 87 inch pounds, again in numerical order. PAY ATTTENTION TO BOLT LENGTHS AND POSITIONS.
Carefully reinstall all connectors to replacement valve body. DO NOT RELY ON CONNECTOR COLORS TO MATCH SOLENOID COLORS. Refer to your own documentation made while disassembling for connection. Start with the top three solenoids.
Next, reconnect the bottom five solenoids. Make sure the wires follow their natural shape and do not get crossed.
Take a few minutes to make sure that all wires are routed and connected properly. Your replacement valve body is now installed.
Install Valve Body Cover:
Make sure all mating surfaces and inside of valve body cover are clean, dry, and oil-free. Apply a small bead of RTV Silicon Gasket Maker to the mating surface of the valve body cover, making sure you surround each bolt hole.
Immediately install valve body cover and hand tighten T-40 bolts (9). Follow RTV Gasket Maker’s instructions for best results. Torque T-40 bolts (9) to 10 foot pounds, in the order shown below. DO NOT OVERTIGHT T-40 BOLTS. Bolt 3 is difficult to install with a conventional ratchet and extension.
Wait at least one hour to allow time for RTV gasket maker to cure, and then add 3.5 quarts of transmission fluid designed for your car. THIS IS ONLY A STARTING POINT.
Check Fluid Level:
Reinstall battery plate bracket, battery plate, battery tray, fuse block, battery, and battery clamp. Make sure that all wire clips and harnesses are returned to their original positions as you work.
Reinstall the left wheel splash guard.
Reinstall the left wheel and lower car.
Connect the positive terminal to battery.
Connect the negative terminal to battery.
Warm up the engine.
Check for any transmission fluid leaks.
Before driving, the fluid level can be checked using the “COLD” range on the A/T fluid level gauge.
The car should be level, and parking brake set.
Move the transmission selector lever through each gear position, leaving the selector lever in the “P” park position.
Check the fluid level with the engine idling.
Remove the A/T fluid level gauge and wipe it clean with a lint-free paper.
Re-insert the A/T fluid level gauge into the charging pipe as far as it will go.
Remove the A/T fluid level gauge and note the reading. If the reading is at or below the low side of the range, add the necessary specified A/T fluid through the A/T fluid charging pipe.
DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.
Retrain Your Computer:
Your car’s computer has adapted to your old, defective valve body, and must learn how to correctly shift again.
If no leaks were detected, reinstall the engine splash guard (connected to bottom of front bumper and suspension cross member).
Restart your car. Slowly move the shift lever through each position beginning with P all the way to D, and then back to P. Pause for a second or two in each position. Repeat this cycle several times.
Drive slowly to a spot where starting and stopping is safe. Make sure you have room for car to advance through all gears automatically and then come to a gentle stop.
While completely stopped, move shift lever to “D” position for automatic shifting. DO NOT USE THE TIPTRONIC (L/H) SHIFTER.
Gently accelerate until 5th gear is reached. You will need to listen and count as the transmission automatically changes gears.
When 5th is reached, stop accelerating and gently apply the brake until the car has downshiffted back to 1st gear and come to a complete stop.
DO NOT BE ALARMED IF THE CAR SHIFTS ERRATICALLY DURING THIS PROCESS.
Repeat this process five times. Shifting should be smoother with each pass.
Repeat this process five more times, this time more aggressively.
Your computer has been retrained.
Park vehicle and re-check the fluid level using the “HOT” range on the A/T fluid level gauge.
DO NOT OVERFILL THE TRANSMISSION.
Carefully pack your old valve body for shipment back to rebuilder. DO NOT SHIP WITH TOP THREE SOLENOID ASSEMBLIES INSTALLED. Pack them separately in the box with ample padding. Damage to old valve body will forfeit your core refund.
Congratulations! You have just installed a Maxima Valve Body.
Here is a high-level summary of the whole process:
1. Remove drain plug from CVT oil pan.
2. Drain fluid
3. Reinstall drain plug in oil pan
4. Fill CVT with tranny fluid at the charging pipe
5. Drive CVT for 10 min
6. Check fluid level.
7. Add fluid if necessary
Now on the actual procedure
Remember to only use OEM Nissan Fluid. Specs below:
CVT AUTO Type: NISSAN CVT Transmission Fluid Part #: 999MP-NS200P Price: $14.95/qt (You need approx. 6-7 quarts)
Tools/supplies Needed:
Pliers
10mm Allen Wrench, T-handle
1.5 ft. of clear flexible tubing (1 in. diameter)
Container marked of f at 1 qt. (did this with a measuring cup and sharpie marker)
Collection pan to collect the used transmission fluid
Flat Head Screwdriver
Transmission Fluid Funnel
6-7 Quarts of NISSAN Matic-D Automatic Transmission Fluid
Experience needed: I would say some experience working on cars, at least be able to do your own oil changes before you try to do this. You will also need one person around to help.
Step 1: Drive car around for about 10 minutes to warm everything up. Park it, run through all the gears (P, R, N, D, and then back to P) and leave the engine running. Pull the transmission dip stick out, wipe clean, insert back in but rotate 180 degrees and push all the way down. Pull back out and check the level (remember where it is so you can refill back to same location, should be at the second notch). This is also where you will add transmission fluid.
Step 2: Raise the front end of the vehicle somehow. I have small ramps I use for changing my oil so I drove up onto these. Turn off the car.
Step 3. With the dip stick pulled out. Place a collection pan underneath the transmission drain plug. Using the hex screwdriver/tool, unscrew the drain plug. Notice that it doesn’t take much force to unscrew this so don’t over tighten when putting back on. Allow all of the fluid to drain, I left it to drain for about 15 min.
Step 4. Screw the drain plug back on. I think you can replace the o-ring on the drain plug but I didn’t do this.
Step 5. Measure how much fluid you drained out by using your container that you marked off at 1 qt. I drain roughly 4.5 qts. Add the same amount of fluid you took out back into the transmission through the recharging pipe (same place you pulled the dip stick out) using your funnel.
Step 6. Lower the car down. Run it back through all the gears and check the fluid level just as before. Adjust the fluid as needed.
So I decided on something a little easier with the same result.
Just to remind everyone, this will make it:
PULL BACK = Next Gear PUSH FORWARD = Previous Gear
And the best part? It takes 15mins or less, uses $2 worth of connectors, and is totally reversible in a matter of seconds!
Tools Needed: – side cutters – pliers – 2*blade connectors – female – 2*blade connectors – male – electrical tape
Time Needed: 15mins
Picture 1:
Pull the centre part of your dash off using info on these forums
You will see a few wires which run around behind the gear selector and these are involved in the tiptronic switching
Locate the 2 wires which send the signal back to the ECU when the gear has been manually changed
The colors you are looking for are DARK GREEN and LIGHT GREY
Note that there is also a light green wire so don’t get confused
Picture 2:
Cut these 2 wires and strip all 4 free ends
Picture 3:
Attach the male and female ends of the blade connectors using the pliers to hold the wires in place. You could probably solder them if you could be bothered.
Picture 4:
Connect the wires
The key here is that you want to swap the wires around so that the grey is now connecting with the green for both wires
Note that as you have used blade connectors, it is very easy to simply pull out the connector and put the configuration back to normal if you ever want to!
Picture 5:
Using electrical tape, cover the exposed metal of the connectors and put the wires back into their normal position. You can hardly notice that anything is done! Put your trim back in place
Test Drive: Amazing, simply amazing. It’s stupid that it wasn’t this way to start with.
Summary:
This is a DIY that costs the price of a box of connectors and takes about 15mins to do. Not only that, but it is completely reversible in the event that you change your mind!
I’m going to get some custom stickers made up that have a ” + ” and ” – ” sign on them for completeness. They will be black like the P-R-N-D indicator on the other side of the shifter
1. Drain out oil and coolant. drain the coolant as much as possible because it will drip for a while after the majority is out.
2. Remove oil filter
3. Take a 22mm socket and break loose the nut/bolt (its a bolt with a hex on it) holding in the cooler. its best to get a de-greaser of some kind and wipe it dry so the socket doesn’t just slip. once you break it loose, keep loosening it and take out the nut/bolt
4. More oil will come out (not much more) and here is the MESSY part. there are two tubes coming out of the oil cooler. these tubes contain the remaining coolant that did not flush out from the radiator. once you remove these two tubes coolant will come out and a good amount of it so have your coolant container ready and try to aim the hose to the bucket, but it will be difficult. 9/10 times the coolant will mix with the oil and make the coolant unusable so have a fresh gallon of it ready.
5. Once the cooler is out, the O-ring will be on the other side. mine was red and the new one from nissan is black. i dunno if thats normal or whatever. simply get the old ring out, place the new one, clean the cooler if you want and you’re done with this part. now reverse the install, fill the motor up with oil and put coolant in the radiator, tighten down every and double check on it and you just saved yourself a good deal of cash!!! lol
Oil cooler housing
Part number for new O-ring
And in case anyone wants to know, this is the oil/filter combo i personally use.
