As many of you have shown there is a want for wiring up 3.5SE mirrors to cars that don’t have the wiring for them. I would like to say that I don’t take full credit for this write up.
As with my OEM Steering Wheel Volume Controls write up (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q-2007/293912-how-install-oem-steering-wheel-volume-controls.html), ruben00 and boystar22 were a huge help. This write up shows how to wire cars with three wires, but can be applied to any car that have 3 or 5 wires, or is fully wired and needs help on removing the mirrors and replacing them.
My way of wiring everything is far less than professional or what ruben00 has laid out for us. I utilize tapping into the driver-side kickplate area for the blinkers and directly connecting the heated (+) wire into the fuse panel. Everything in this method works fine and works as it would OEM, but isn’t as pretty from an installers POV.
Here are the parts you’ll need:
~20 ft of four different colors of wire (4 is ideal, but I used 40ft of red and black) of 18AWG
Electrical tape
Zip Ties
1/4in Wire loom (~20ft)
(4) T-Tap connectors
10mm Socket Wrench
Phillips screw driver
Flat Head screw driver
Medium sized cloth
The first step is to remove your door paneling. I recommend starting with the passenger side. You are going to be running all four wires from the passenger side to the driver side of the car so it is best to have those wires ran to the driverside so you can tap all the wires in one whack.
1. Start by removing your arm rest, pull upwards but evenly. The foam is very brittle below so try not to pull up one side with more force.
2. Remove your window/door control switch grab from bottom and pull upwards. Disconnect the connectors (3 for driver side, 1 on passenger side) The top connector on the driver side is a pain to remove so you may need a small flat head to push in the release while pulling at the same time.
3. Open the handle as shown below and put a screw driver in the bottom right hand corner of the cover to pop it off and reveal a screw.
4. Remove the courtesy light by grabbing the bottom and pulling down and out.
5. Unscrew this screw from beneath the handle.
6. Unscrew the these two screws (utilize a 10mm socket wrench).
7. With everything unscrewed and all main panels removed. Stick a flat head screw driver in the side of the car with a cloth, this will protect everything underneath the panel, be sure to make sure the screwdriver isn’t going to pierce through the cloth and damage anything by doubling up your cloth.
8. Here is what you should now have (notice I put an old car mat underneath the panel to prevent excess scratching to the bottom of the panel).
9. Remove this interior mirror cover. Very simple no real trick to it.
10. Disconnect your connector here by the mirror and remove your mirror to install your new one. Simply unscrew these three screws. They are very very tight. Use a 10mm socket wrench to unscrew.
11. Time to start running your four wires, after removing some panels of course… Remove your kick panel as shown below.
12. Remove the upper kick panel. It’s in there real good so you will need to use some force.
13. Pull out the rubber wire molding from the car and door, you can’t remove this completely as there are wires in it but you will want to have it so it is disconnected. Don’t worry, it’s easy to take off and easy to put back on.
14. To get all four wires through everything I start with a guide wire. Being in the IT field, I utilized an ethernet cord which worked out great. Bring your guide wire to go through the rubber thing (going up works better than down).
15. Bring one end of the wire inside the car now.
16. Now we want to bring the wire into the door. Time to take off the speaker. Disconnect the top harness off it and utilize a 10mm socket wrench again.
17. Bring your wire inside the door.
18. Tape your four wires to the end of the guide wire and slowly pull one place at a time until it is in the door.
19. When the wire is all ran to the door be sure to give yourself plenty of wire so you will be able to make it to the connector by the mirror while following the same path of the current wires. Zip tie your wires frequently to prevent them from loosening up, etc. Assuming you have followed the path of the existing wire, this is where you’ll end up:
20. Poke a hole through this grommet and run your four wires through it. Again, we are maintaining the same path as the current wires.
21. Now that you have maintained the same path of the other wires tape them together with electrical tape and now you should be at the connector part. Test your wires so you know what pair is going to be for the blinkers and what pair will be for the heat. I utilized the small connector we pulled out that is for the courtesy light at the bottom of the door. Simply put two wires into it and on the other end use a 12v LED to see which wires were turning on the light. This way you aren’t confused about what wires were doing what (in other words, LABEL what wires are the going to what).
22. Time to properly connect your wires in the correct location of the connector. Unfortunately I was unable to track down the same metra harness ruben00 spoke about in his thread so I had to do what boystar22 did. This is sticking in stripped wires into the holes of the connector. This will work. You just need to secure the wires with zip ties and friction tape or electrical tape.
Side note: If you know where to purchase the correct metra harness with the correct pins for inserting in the mirror connector get in contact with me.
23. Here is the wiring schematic for both sides of the mirror.
24. Here is what my connector looked like in the end. I removed the front cover of the connector which is just a small guide for the pins. Top two are the heat and bottom two are the blinkers.
25. Connect the connector to the mirror. Feel free to test the blinker by connecting the two wires on the opposite end of the mirror to the courtesy light connector to see if it lights up. Pink should be positive and red is ground on the courtesy light connector I believe.
26. Now you will want to run the correct amount of wire from the passenger side to the driver side of the car. I’d recommend removing the kick panel on the left side of the passenger and then just feeding your wires to the driver side through there. Once you have a good guess of about how much wire you’ll need, create four of those wires and put them in a wire loom. Make sure you know what connection goes to what. If you lose track of what two wires do the heat and what two do the blinker you’ll be stuck. Secure your wire loom to anything you want to avoid it draping your feet in the footwells with the loom.
27. Now that your wires are ran, repeat the process for the driverside door. All steps should be the same however you will just run wires to get to the driver side kick plate area.
28. Time to hook up the heat, it’s actually the easiest. Grab your two ground wires for the heat. Connect them to the ground hidden behind the firewall. Loosen this bolt with a 10mm socket wrench.
29. Take your two positive wires and connect them into this location of the fuse panel. It is labeled as heated mirror on the back of the fuse guide on the cover to the fuses as well. What I did was connect a small 3in red wire to this location which branched off into two connections that I heat shrunk together. If you can’t tell, this location is at the way bottom and at the 2nd position from the right. Ignore the slew of other wires you see in there. I have a remote start installed.
30. Feel free to test your heat, if it’s not working after turning your car on and pressing the button for the rear windshield then check over your connections at the mirror. Since we didn’t use pins that are inserted perfectly these are the connections that will fail. Also, be sure you connected the correct wires and that your fuse is okay.
31. Blinker time. Here are the wire colors that are utilized for the blinkers:
Same location you connected the heated ground wires = Ground for Left & Right
Green with Yellow Stripe (lesser thick gauged one) = Left (+)
Green with Black Stripe (lesser thick gauged one) = Right (+)
Tap the connections with a T-Tap connector.
Original photo so there is no mistaking what wires to tap.
32. Test all connections to make sure everything works. Push the hazards button to test both at the same time and turn the car on and press the rear wind shield button to test the heat. You’ll be able to tell after a few minutes if the mirrors are warm to touch.
33. The last thing to do is button it all up. Follow steps 1-10 backwards and enjoy your car with mirrors that are heated, have blinkers, and can manually turn in!
Crude Graphical Reference of Location of Wires:
This is my third “How To” on the forums and all the images are hosted on my own hosting package so donations are appreciated!
As always I, nor do any of the people who posted guides or advice take any responsibility for your car, assets, or anything else in the event that something goes wrong with anything you do after reading our threads.
I recently decided I wanted to install a backup sensor in my car. I didn’t want to ruin the nice aesthetics of the bumper by installing any kind of system that required drilling holes. I came to choose the elecromagnetic kind, these create a field around the bumper. If the electromagnetic field is disturbed it will beep, the more disturbed the field is the faster the beeps get. Once you are very very close it produces a solid tone.
Here is where to get the backup system: I got the PD1-Rear
Here’s a great video from a Pontiac G8 owner that installed his:
To install it you have to remove the entire rear bumper cover. This is because you need to install a foil antenna along the inside of the cover. So whether you are installing the same system or repainting your bumper cover and need it removed here is how you do it:
1. Remove this clip from the interior of your trunk on the left and right hand side. This will give you access to the screws holding in your tail lights. Be careful with these clips, they break easily!
2. Unscrew these two screws here as I have aleady done. I just used some pliers.
3. Remove your tail lights, lift up in the direction the screws are pointed, there are three clips (along the left hand side in this pic) also holding the tail light so you will need a little force.
4. Next we go to the rear wheel wells, you will need a 10mm socket wrench. Peel back a bit of the carpet and remove this screw. There is one on each side of the car.
5. Now remove two clips on each side of the car. They may have sand and anything else you can think of in them (I suggest washing the sand out before replacing them in your car when reassembling). The first clip on the left secures the carpet to the bumper. The second clip secures the bumper to a metal hook type thing to keep the bumper fastened to the lower part of the car.
6. There are two clips also at the rear of the vehicle in between the mufflers. Here is the one on the right, remove both.
7. Remove this clip (1) on both sides and remove this screw (2) with the 10mm socket wrench. Don’t worry, while this is all the removable clips and screws, you will still need to peel the bumper off and it is NOT going to fall.
8. Peel both of the sides off from the car as depicted below, do as much as possible, you will get to the point seen here and you will want to grab the bottom of the bumper and the top in that corner to really tug on those clips, they are in there good!
9. You may notice top clip here where the bumper meets the end of the fender, here I tried to show you the clips on the corner but it is hard to see.
10. Once you have the sides unclipped keep pulling! Only this time close towards the back, there are some nice heavy duty clips in the back still holding it. You may also want to have a friend hold your bumper on the opposite side in the event you get all three clips from the back taken off in one pull because if you do, the bumper will fall off.
And thats it! Once the bumper is off you can do what you were going to do (install a backup sensor, paint your bumper cover, etc).
Here you can see I mounted the antenna for the backup sensor and routed the cables through the side trunk vent. The sensor works great and it’s fantastic at detecting, I highly recommend it. However, if you install it be forewarned, do NOT use excessive silicone. I used it to ensure it would stick to the bumper from all weather -bad idea. Utilize sticky foam tape every few inches or so. The silicone prevented any detection by creating an insulation around the wire. Although I figured the other side touching the bumper was all that needed to be bear, i was incorrect, both sides cannot excessive amounts.
For reinstallation, reverse instructions. Note, you may find it hard to hook the sides of the bumper (step 9) back into place. Be sure to only have done step 10, and have a friend hold the other side of the bumper while you push in the corner and clip it in. It takes some patience and this in my opinion the hardest step.
As always I do not take any responsibility for your car, assets, or anything else in the event that something goes wrong.
Henry installed a Tomei 274° 11.3 lift intake set in his new engine, a 2017 Maxima engine with 30,000 miles, into his 2016 Nissan Altima 3.5 SV. He noted that HR engines have longer exhaust duration cams, typically 254°, similar to RWD HRs. He mentioned that the 2007 Altima has a VQ35DE engine with specific cam data:
Intake/Exhaust Lift: 10.0mm
Intake/Exhaust Duration: 240º
Intake Opens/Closes: 10º ATDC/70º ABDC
Exhaust Opens/Closes: 50º BBDC/50º ATDC
He found that VQ35DE Nismo Spec-1 and Spec-2 cams offer increased operating angles and lifts. His setup aligns closely with Nismo S1 specs, opting not to use Tomei’s exhaust cams due to lack of EVC control in his ECU. He compared his setup with VQ35HR and ‘Revup’ cam data, and provided Tomei cam specs:
Intake/Exhaust Lift: 11.30mm/11.00mm
Intake/Exhaust Duration: 274°
Intake Opens/Closes: 14°/80°
Exhaust Opens/Closes: 80°/14°
Henry also customized his timing setup, used Tomei oval wire springs, and incorporated various other parts like VQ30DE intake cam bolts, 3gen exhaust cams, and VHR components. After extensive work, he successfully started the engine, highlighting additional upgrades like a 6-speed swap, NISformance stage 2 clutch, and Borla X pipe.
I adjusted the intake trigger wheel to match the standard position found in third-generation models.
I grinded down the wheel as is typical in an HR engine swap.
I utilized Tomei oval wire springs for the setup, which are taller than those in RWD HRs and match the height of third-generation models.
Additional Install Photos
I’ve added more pictures of the timing setup. I had to use VQ30DE intake cam bolts for the third-generation exhaust cams. I also painted the timing cover and opted to use the cover from my original engine because I prefer the style of VVT covers, similar to those found on GTRs and VHRs.
After countless hours of challenging work, it finally operates successfully. The initial startup was for the cam break-in, and it has a lopey idle.
