Last Updated: 11/28/2020 @ 08:20 am

Member Credit: ridinwitha35

I did a MAF swap today & the results were so drastic I was feeling nice & decided to do a little write-up of the swap. Flooring it knocks me in at least 6k rpms with no hesitation (only floored it twice though); I used to floor it & get 5k rpms with good pull and then at other times it was if there was a brick wall at 3.5k rpms & it would slowly accelerate from there. Many have done it & this isn’t anything new to the regulars, but for noobs out there like me who like seeing stuff step by step, here it goes…

I’m sure the elite can do this without taking everything apart like I show, but that’s just what I did. Whole process takes less than 15 minutes.

If you don’t know what this is about, this is a procedure for 5.5 gen Maximas [2002,2003] & I35s [NOT I30s] where you buy a basic version of the MAF and swap over a part from your old MAF to that new MAF, essentially making it a complete MAF as far as the ECU is concerned. This “basic version” does not contain a thermistor, which is a temperature-controlled resistor, known to the ECU as the IAT, or Intake Air Temperature sensor. The thermistor/IAT converts the air temperature into an electronic signal the ECU understands. This “basic version” is what is used on regular 5th gens & I30s without modification. A “complete version” can be purchased, but at the moment, there’s a $300+ price difference, making it more economical to buy a “basic version”, and swap the thermistor from your old MAF to it, turning it into a “complete version”. This basic procedure details how to remove the old MAF & swap the thermistor over, but it has pics.

Comparison:

• 2000-2001 MAF: 22680-2Y001 (Price: 75.00)
• 2002-2003 MAF: 22680-AM600 (Price: $450.00)

Parts:

• MAF: 22680-2Y001 (2K1) replacing my 22680-AM600 (2K2) MAF
• All bolts are 10mm/phillips-screw combos…I used sockets cause some of ’em were rusty
• Collars are flatheads
• MAF sensor is secured with T15 torx screws

New maf includes the sensor & housing:

Good thing it includes the housing…screens side by side (new & old):

Steps:

Unclip the MAF connector; remove air box/maf housing/intake tube by removing these bolts & loosening the collar’s flathead. ALSO don’t forget to take off the hose that connects from the intake to the front valve cover (I think)—the spiggot on the intake is the upper-most red circle. Then remove the whole thing from the car:

The maf sensor once removed from the maf housing:

New (2k1) vs. old (2k2)

Electrical connection is via the metal clips squeezed around the leads of the thermistor

Separate clips using some side clippers…like you’re removing a cotter pin.

Clips separated; also cut the plastic at the base (at the curved part)..be careful not to cut the leads!

Remove the bolt & loosen the collar with a flathead to separate maf housing from intake tube:

Remove these bolts to separate maf housing from air box:

View after maf housing removed (can see the filter):

Remove the 2 torx screws, turn the connector a quarter-turn, and wiggle/pull the sensor out: