To integrate a factory steering wheel control from an A32 model into a Pioneer head unit, particularly in KDM SM5 vehicles, some modifications are necessary. This task was accomplished by employing a combination of soldering and the use of a signal converter module.
The specific module used for this conversion was the EX-PSCAJK, which performs a similar function to the ASCW-1. Essentially, any module capable of translating the factory steering wheel control signals to a format suitable for aftermarket head units would suffice. The unique aspect of the SM5’s factory steering wheel control is that it has a separate circuit for each button, unlike more contemporary cars which use varying resistance values for different signals. To address this, 470 ohm resistors were soldered to each button to create distinct resistance values. This step was crucial for generating variable signals. Finally, to streamline the setup, five wires were merged into a single connection, which was then attached to the module. This modification successfully enabled the use of the original steering controls with the new Pioneer head unit, combining the car’s original functionality with modern technology.
Finally a dual headunit-ish set up on factory nav system equipped 1998 SM525V (based on A32 platform)! Factory nav unit can play audio CDs and has auxiliary stereo input in front so I can use it as CDP and aux interface since it is connected to Pioneer AVH-Z5050BT via DIN 8pin to RCA adapter.
SM5’s nav system comes with single-din headunit from factory so the center trim piece is different from that of I30. I modified already-custom trim piece which other people made to flush-mount aftermarket GPS on manual climate control equipped car.
Finally got this done with the help of a friend who’s into car audio. The tablet project s still on hold. I’m too lazy to work with bondo . The hardest part was wiring the power line through the rubber grommet.
The power wire, w/fuse (AGU, 10amp), from battery to the cabin.
If you remember LVleo78’s Infinity Baselink II install, it’s almost no different with the exception of the lack of line-level converter and the wire in question which was the remote turn-on lead.
By the way, the “Procoat” box you see there was not purchased – the dealer just threw it in as a bonus. I doubt it actually works but who knows. Just never bothered to remove it.
Install was straight forward. Set up the wire from the battery w/fuse, run it through the grommet, along the side under the plastic trim. From there, it was finding a place to ground the wire from the sub and tapping the “subwoofers” in the rear deck to the high level inputs. Additionally, we tapped the Acc power wire from the subwoofer amp.
The sub installed is this, a Sound Ordnance B-8p
I bought the Boss 8 gauge amplifier kit online as well as some 10amp AGU fuses.
Once the power was run along the side of the car and to the trunk area, behind the rear passenger seating, we focused on the remote turn-on and wiring from the factory subwoofers.
See the diagram below: The remote turn on wire we tapped into is #9 and was the color green, as indicated in the service manual. We tested this to make sure as well. If you do the same, make sure to double check. This is the wire connected to the harness going into the factory amp.
#9, ACC power, GREEN. (Not Blue, like on the the bose system).
Unfortunately, I didn’t take pictures of the grounding points. I selected a predrilled/pre-threaded hole that can be found underneath and behind the passenger seating and happened to have the right size/thread bolt to fit. The area and bolt were sanded to ensure better connection. When you take out the seats and carpet, you’ll see what I mean. The carpet/board covering the spare tire is also held in by two plastic pins toward the passenger seat end. Just pull them out slowly.
With the next picture, you’ll see the factory subwoofers were tapped directly at the subs. Next to the harness connection, there are tabs for positive and negative input with hook pins ready for solder. We tapped the lines from there to the high level inputs. I’ll try and get a better picture later (As I need to recrimp/solder better wires to them).
Anyway, that’s it for now. The sound is nice and hits pretty hard, although my friend said he would prefer it to be more glass shattering I’m loving it so far and it does well to fill some of that low end base. If/when I install a new header unit, I’ll definitely run the sub inputs from there.
I previously had a Boss brand stereo, but had a few issues. First, there was a high-pitched hiss which never went away even though I put all types of grounds on the system and a filter on the audio. Second, that Boss stereo started to reset its own time. Third, sometimes the Boss stereo would change the channel (!) — seemed like the display screen was somehow stuck. Fourth, the volume always seemed low — and I had started to consider changing the speakers.
However, benefits of the new Pioneer stereo:
The hiss is gone (still keeping the line filters on at the moment)
Stereo has a better screen touch and overall layout
Adds iPhone capability including mic for hands-free phone
Volume is restored — way better than the Boss system ever was
The screw holes match better than the Boss unit — all six attachment screws matched the original Clarion/Bose head unit
Llays DVDs
One installation note — my particular unit went off and on during the installation, and the issue was that the antenna connector to the stereo had to be bent a bit out so it made a solid contact with the connection tunnel.
Finally, some notes on the wiring:
You may connect the blue/white to the blue — that connection makes the antenna go up while the stereo is on (radio or not) — but then when the unit is off, the antenna goes down
You may connect the orange/white to the orange — that connection makes the unit brightness a bit dimmer if the parking lights or driving lights are on
(This wiring picture is for Pioneer brand, only intended as a general guide)
