Community Member Credit: Jesse S Williams
Model: ATOTO F7
Description: ATOTO F7 Double-DIN Car Stereo, CarPlay & Android Auto, 7in Touchscreen in-Dash Navigation GPS, Mirrorlink, Phone Charge, Bluetooth, HD LRV Input with Backup Camera, Mic, Max 2TB SSD&512G SD
Community Member Credit: Richie Grazette
This Android radio will replace your current radio in your vehicle. It gives your vehicle a clean and neat look while giving you access to millions of Android apps and expanding your connectivities. At the same time, this Android radio retains most if not all of your vehicle’s original features such as self-parking and remote start. This Tesla style Android radio also serves as a platform for you to put on many add-ons to further expand your capability on the road. Some examples are HDTV, CarPlay & Android Auto module, portable DVD player, TPMS and more.
This Android radio is fully plug and play. It does not require any wiring or soldering. A set of complimentary Dash Removal Kit will be provided in the package.
Vehicle Information
AC and Heat
Community Member Credit: Jose Vargas
Top: 2000-2001 GXE Trim
Bottom: 2002-2003 Titanium Edition (TE) Trim
Community Member Credit: saig
If the fuse burnt, there is likely a short in your antenna component.
Community Member Credit: CS_AR
If your power antenna still works, consider yourself lucky. I have two Nissans with working antennas and two that have been destroyed by a clogged roof drain Y-pipe. The two that were destroyed by water damage happened before I bought the cars. So this is one of those maintenance items that will come back to bite if neglected for too long.
Each fall I like to clean and check roof drains along with coolant maintenance get ready for winter maintenance activities.
Over the years, I’ve replaced the roof drain Y-Pipes with OEM replacements to avoid problems with the roof drain backing up and causing other damage. The problem is the original metal roof drain Y-pipes will rust and clog causing water from the roof drain to back up into the power antenna motor.
Replacing the power antenna motor can be an expensive and/or time consuming task. So I with this thread I want to share a low cost alternative to the metal roof drain Y-Pipe.
Located below the jack mount in right hand side of the trunk is a roof drain Y-Pipe that is intended to vent water from the sunroof and power antenna out behind the right side rear wheel.
Here’s a picture of a clogged and corroded Y-pipe below. This Y-Pipe was so corroded and rusted on the inside that I could not clear the clog using coat hanger wire. Really when the Y-pipe is this bad, there is no point in trying to save it. Just replace it.
Here’s a picture of the Y-pipe and the boot that you will see behind the right rear wheel. The Y-pipe was designed to merge water from the right rear roof vent with the antenna drain and allow it to exit the body cavity just below the jack mount.
This afternoon I went to my local Ace Hardware and purchased a Watts Nylon barbed end splicer and connector.
The Splicer (reducer) is a 1/2 in ID x 3/8 in ID – Part Number PL-427. This works for connecting the roof drain hose to a 3/8 in ID connector – Part Number PL-310
I connected the roof drain hose to the splicer in this picture.
Then I connected the splicer from the roof drain and the antenna drain to the connector T. The connector T will drain out out of the fender cavity through the regular boot that is shown in the 2nd picture. The short tube in the picture connects to the drain on the bottom of the power antenna motor.
Here’s a picture of the new connector T that replaced the original metal Y-Pipe.
I made a final revision to remove the extra hose between the connector T and the splicer in the picture below. I wanted the two barbed ends to touch inside the hose.
Here’s a picture of the hose clamp that I added to the antenna drain nipple. I had problems with the hose coming loose from the antenna after installation. It won’t come loose now.
I hope this post saves a club member’s 4th gen the damage that a corroded metal Y-pipe can cause.
Cheers!
To regain use of the trip button after installing an aftermarket radio, you need to ground the thin brown/white wire on the small harness that plugged into the factory radio.
Community Member Credit: Dan Turk
I see people ask this a lot: Yes, you can direct-swap CarPlay head units in. I drive a ‘16 Bose and swapped with a wrecked ‘17 Bose. Match Bose or non-Bose and you should be good. The only “problem” is the 360° camera shows a silver car – the donor was silver and mine is red. Got the HU off car-part.com for $380 and sold my old one on eBay for $180. Not a bad $200 upgrade.
Community Member Credit: nissancaraudio
The Bose system is made up of three components:
Lets go over the Bose head unit first:
The bose head unit has three distinct qualities that separate it from today’s common head units
It has no internal amplifier. All standard car stereos have an amplifier inside of the head unit housing and actually, it’s more like a chip. This chip produces about 18 watts per channel into four speakers.
The Bose head unit has no internal amplifier chip instead the bose system has an outboard true amplifier hidden someplace separately inside the vehicle.
Bose does this because they are able to place a much bigger and more powerful amplifier in an area that would of have never been able to fit in the confines of the head unit housing. Bose amps are usually 22 watts per channel and has 5 channels of amplification, the extra channel is for the bose subwoofer.
Differential outputs
All bose head units output from the deck a differential balanced output. The advantage to this uncommon car stereo technology is noise rejection. The differential balanced outputs provide two equal but opposite versions of the musical signal (an inverted signal and a non-inverted signal) the bose amp has differential balanced inputs and that’s where the two versions are subtracted creating the cancellation of noise and as a result the bose system becomes noise free.
Aftermarket head units use standard speaker output technology
Built-in Volume Sensing EQ
The bose system is designed to make its speaker components sound the best it can with its propriety eq volume sensing system. This system limits bass output at higher volumes to protect its stock speakers, this is good news for the stock bose speakers but if you replace them with a higher quality pair, you will not get everything you paid for out of the new pair. not all bose systems have volume sensing eq built-in.
Factory bose amp
Eq setting
Looking at a standard amplifier you will notice that the amplifier gives you different options in tuning. The amp has adjustable cross-over filters such as high pass low pass and all pass. The standard amp even lets you decide on the crossover points for the filter setting.
Bose amps have no user-adjustable buttons or switches to change, the networks for such are built into the amp’s circuitry. The crossover and filters are fixed on the setting that bose has deemed beneficial for the bose factory speaker.
Bose amp Impedance Level
Standard aftermarket speakers all come with a 4-ohm load resistance, every standard head unit amplifier is designed to take a four-ohm load and supply the speaker with about 18-22 watts RMS of power. The bose amplifier can only generate those types of power levels at an extremely low ohm resistance. So they create their bose speakers to be a low ohm load like 2 ohms and 1 ohm even sometimes a 1/2 ohm load. I believe bose does this just to piss us off. if you replace the bose stock speakers with an aftermarket 4-ohm model you will get only about half the power from the bose amp and the speakers will sound less impactful.
Bose Amp Input Signal
An aftermarket head unit has amplifier pre-outs for adding amplifiers to your system.
An RCA cable plugs into your head unit and runs down to and plugs into the input signal on an aftermarket amplifier.
On a bose system you will not find any type of pre-outs for adding an amp. The bose uses a balanced differential unamplified speaker wire-out that runs out from behind the bose head unit and plugs directly into a bose amplifier via a Molex plug. These Molex plugs carry all the speaker outputs from the bose head unit.
Outputs of a Bose Amp
You may see one or two or three Molex connections on an amp of a bose system.
In these plug or plugs is the unamplified speaker signal along with power and ground wires coming from the bose head unit and also the amplified output from the amp to the speakers in the vehicle. Commonly found in the output harness is the tweeter left front, tweeter right front, mid-front left, mid-front right, rear left, rear right, and a sub. The speaker outputs are internally crossed and filtered by the amplifier.
Bose Speakers
The bose speakers incorporate a very low ohm impedance resistance common bose speakers are 2ohm 1 ohm and ½ an ohm. bose does this so it can extract as much power as possible from its amplifiers. To keep this simple the lower the speaker impedance an amp sees on its outputs the more power it can extract from its amplifier. This low speaker impedance can cause problems when trying to replace a bose speaker with a common 4-ohm speaker normally found at any retailer. since the common standard speaker is a 4 ohm model (not including subwoofers) it will extract significantly less power from the bose amp making the new aftermarket speakers have a drop off in volume output.
There are very few options when replacing a bose speaker, you can either scour eBay looking for another used speaker for your same exact vehicle (there are many different types of speakers for the bose system, finding an exact match can be daunting) or you can purchase the only known compatible speakers to work with bose speakers. The infinity kappa series.
