Credit: ranmas2004
2009-2015 Throttle Body
2002-2003 Throttle Body
You can see 02 TB is much smaller
Side by side comparison…..
Order Link: https://www.courtesyparts.com/oem-parts/nissan-positive-cable-2411044u00
Part Number: Positive Cable – Nissan (24110-44U00)
Credit: Eddy
- Red Wire from Camera –> Red/Blue wire from reverse bulb socket
- Black Wire from Camera –> Black wire from reverse bulb socket
Credit: Eddy
My air conditioner had stopped working all of a sudden. I tried to add R134A refrigerant but the gauge was showing it was full. At first I was thinking I may need a new AC compressor. But before that I decided to do a few basic checks.
First I checked the sub-harness where you plug-in the compressor and alternator. I noticed the alternator pigtail was in very bad shape. I replaced the harness with a used OEM one and then I went to check the AC fuse. To my surprise it was blown. Soon as I replaced it, the AC compressor kicked right on.
The R134A refrigerant gauge now read low but a good sign since it just needed more. I refilled it with a full can of R134A refrigerant and now the AC is ice cold, super ice cold. I suspect it was the bad alternator pigtail that probably caused two wires to trough. This is what likely caused the 7.5 amp fuse to blow.
Now back to cruising with a nice COLD AC in this summer weather.
Credit: Daniel B Martin
Warning: This procedure is very dangerous, you can very easily screw up your wiring. The key to doing this is taking your time and looking everything over twice before doing it.
If you want the clock display to remain at high intensity when the lights are on…
1) Remove the clock. This may be done with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver blade between the lower right hand corner of the plastic dashboard clock panel and the adjacent softer dash board. Slowly pry the panel up. Continue this at all four corners of the contoured panel until the metal snaps which anchor the panel are loose. Remove the panel by pulling outward and downward.
2) Note that the clock’s electrical connector has four wires. Cut the wire which is red with a blue tracer.
3) Install the clock panel. It just snaps into place.
Credit: Smooth Operator
I hope it is of use to some of you thinking about swapping out your “standard” wiper switch for a variable intermittent wiper switch (standard on GLEs; included in GXE’s and SE’s S&C package).
My 97 SE 5sp is a stripper. It does not have the variable intermittent wiper which is available only in the SE Security and Convenience package. I did it for several reasons:
- The “standard” wiper looks like something from a Kia parts bin, whereas the variable intermittent wiper switch matches the shape of the “combo” switch and is more aesthetically pleasing.
- I truly miss not having the feature of a variable intermittent wiper.
- Its a simple and relatively cheap “mod”
I did the swap in about 10 minutes. It is a direct swap. You don’t have to mess with any relays, fuses, etc.
Here are the simple steps to swap out the standard wiper switch with a variable intermittent wiper switch:
- Remove lower dash cover (held by 2 screws on each bottom corner, and snap-in clips across the top edge of the cover)
- Remove metal knee bolster (held by 2 10mm screws)
- Remove steering column cover (Held by 6 philips screws; 4 in front and 2 in the back)
- You will expose the column switches. The wiper switch is held by two gold-colored screws. Remove the screws and slide out the wiper switch (direction indicated by the blue arrow).
- Unclip wiring harness.
- Install wiring harness onto new wiper switch
- Install is reverse of removal.
- Finish Product:
Note that if your Max is a 97-99 you MUST source a wiper switch from a 97-99. The pin outs are different. (Same goes for 95-96 Maximas).
Manuals don’t have a electronic mount. In an automatic, at idle there is additional vibrations where a manual Maxima (which would be in neutral) would otherwise not experience. Therefore, as mentioned, the electric mounts soften at idle and the actuator will then add pressure to the inner rubber once the throttle increases.
The engine mount (electronic one) is controlled by the ECM. The ECM controls the engine mount operation corresponding to the engine speed and the vehicle speed. The control system has a 2-step control (hard/soft). The motor mounts are supposed to harden up when the RPM’s of the motor goes over about 1000 RPM. When it drops below that, they loosen up. At idle with vehicle stopped the mount is soft and when driving the mount is hard.
Most people disconnect them and cut the wire to avoid ECU shortage. It’s been common in some 5thgens and 6thgens. It will not cause a Check Engine Light (CEL) by disconnecting.
Additional Notes:
- The vibration is not even noticeable. I have had mine unplugged for ~6 months and there is no discernable difference at idle or speed.
- There is no reason to disconnect them before they fail. It is pretty easy to tell when they do go bad (buzzing/whirring sound after you turn off the car) and even if you don’t fix it right away nothing bad happens. Mine buzzed for ~2 months before I decided to unplug them.
- As it turns out, the mount is not really an electric mount, it is a hydraulic device. It uses electricity to run a small electric motor that pumps oil in and out of a rubber bladder. Built into the little motor are contacts that are supposed to shut off the motor after it has rotated some certain number of times. As too many members have found out, this design fails and “poof” goes your ECU.
- I ran my 99 i30 with the electric mount unplugged. I read where 5th gens can short out and knock out the ECU. Though I don’t think 4th gens have the problem. Anyway, replacing an ECU on a 99 model can be an expensive ordeal, so I didn’t want to take any chances with the mount’s electric motor causing a short.
- Mine have been unplugged and replaced with ES motor mounts for well over 3 years…..
Credit: Vladimir_K
- To remove ECU the 4 Philips screws should be removed: 2 from rear side and 2 from front side. But it will be still difficult to remove Air Mix Door Actuator. The next step is cutting out all plastic clumps holding electric cables on the ECU frame.
- Final step is removing the ECU frame: take out 2 (10 mm) bolts from rear side. There is no mount bolts for a front part of ECU frame (just pull out central plate by shifting frame back/rear).
- Someone may find useful to cut out some parts of the ECU frame. (Pictures attached) And use parts of the plastic rings (from 1/4 tube) for holding the 3 screws inside of holes of actuator.
Credit: sanford7575/DennisMik
I had to write something because this job sucks! ’97 I30 with a bad air mix motor (only blowing cold air all the time…did the FSM diagnostic on the climate control system and got a -26 PBR short circuit). Had to order the new motor/actuator from Nissan Parts Zone ($60) because rock auto, eBay, and Autozone had nothing.
Anyway, I’m in the middle of doing this job now, and there is no freaking way to get to the air mix motor without removing the ECU, and moving the wire harness out of the way. I also had to take the glove box out to undo a dash harness that patches into the main ECU harness. The long story short is that it took me the better part of 3 hours just to remove the failed air mix motor. I honestly thought that this would be a half-hour job, and it’s going to take me the better part of tomorrow to finish.
I may end up doing an official write up with pictures, but just wanted to complain and tell everyone that this job is a pain in the !@!#$ There is no space to work, and the three bolts that hold the air motor in place are not accessible unless you remove the ECU and have a special small ratcheting screwdriver (got mine from harbor freight for $2) to remove the ECU from its bracket and the air mix motor from its mount, and a long handle 10mm ratcheting wrench to remove the ECU mounting bracket from the body.
Damn this repair, I hate hanging upside down in the front seat. I may actually install a remote start and car alarm system since I’m down here and wires and dash panels are exposed. Gotta love underestimating the time on a repair job! I think I live for this %$^&; Nissan / Infiniti 4 ever!
The PBR is built inside the Air Mix Door Motor, it is not a separate item.
Here is a view of the Air Mix Door Motor from the passenger foot well.
Here is the Air Mix Door Motor opened up. In the left half, about the middle, is a small gear. It is mounted on the PBR. If you look on the right half, there is a white half gear that has some metal fingers on it. The metal is copper and you can see green corrosion on the fingers. That corrosion is why your motor doesn’t work.
ards the front of the car. You can barely see it from the driver’s side foot well, it is more easily seen from the passenger side foot well. The PBR is built inside the Air Mix Door Motor, it is not a separate item.
Part Number: 27732-40U00