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Community Member Credit: Eddy

I started having issues with my rear trunk latch life gate on my 2004 Infiniti FX35. It just wouldn’t open. For some time, I was just removing the trunk 15A fuse where it would reset the latch. It would eventually open. But this ultimately got worse. I got tired of taking the fuse in and out whenever I wanted to open the trunk. Also, I really didn’t want to spend $100+ bucks on the part to fix it, so I figured I’d try whatever was out there.

So I tried the solution in this write-up. I won’t take all the credit because I found some info on one of the FX35 forums (member Jim Lee). It took me about 20-30 minutes to do and WOW, everything works again. It’s been a few days now and all works fine. Basically, you turn your motor back to brand new again by following this how-to. The motor has something called a ‘commutator’. It needs to be super clean. When I took my motor out, it was very dirty and black. It is the common issue of the brushed motor. You can Google “Commutator” to learn more about it. 

Update 4/9/2021: This officially resolved my issue. All is good and saved me a bunch of $$$. 

Update 8/25/2024:  I had to repeat the process, but it didn’t work right away. If you run into this, all you need to do is remove the “15A Rear Door Fuse” and then put it back; that should reset it. If the fuse is blown, make sure to replace it.

Commutator Reference Photo:

Summary: I would recommend try this how-to. It will save you a lot of money and it’s very simple to do. The part is about $100 bucks and labor may be another $100 bucks. This was FREE to me and just took 20 minutes of my time. Plus you learn a little about how these things work.

Nissan OEM Part Replacement Information

If you are looking to just replace and not attempt this how-to, below is the information you need to order the correct part for your FX35. Please cross-check the part number to ensure it works for your generation FX35.

Part Description: Motor-Closure, Back Door
Part Number: 90554-AQ000
Price: $124.03

This video below will show you how to remove the plastic covers to expose and take out the latch motor.

How to Fix and Clean Motor “Commutator”:

Original Photo Credit: Jim Lee via FX Forums

After doing the above and taking out the motor, you can follow the steps below:

Take off the 3 screws on the motor.

Pull the shaft out of the housing.

Simply use a terry cloth rag and apply some elbow grease back and forth to clean it.

These were actual pictures of my FX35. You can see how dirty it was as seen above. You can see the green cloth I used.

After cleaning it, it looks like this. Literally brand new again!

Put everything back together. AND NOW EVERYTHING WORKS AGAIN! Before I would have to take out the trunk fuse in order to reset it and hoped it opened. Now it opens consistently with no issues at!!

Motor Reference Photos:

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Credit: Wyatt James

Electro-hydraulic power steering for easier maintenance, cleaner engine bay, and cause race car stuff.

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Credit: Josh Go Hard Neal

Part Description: SIDE MIRROR SWITCH ASSEMBLY
Part Number: 25570-4M410
Price: $27.00 – $35.00

  • Sharing what I found upon my search for a OEM switch to control power folding side mirrors.
    This was installed on my 04 i35.
  • My 98 Max I used the generic push button switch that came with the mirrors.
  • Switch works for mirror adjustment as it should but orientation of switch is vertical vs horizontal as you will see in vid.
  • Also the power fold switch is a rocker switch so if ya want to use a aftermarket rocker switch that will work fine like what Eddy Perez shared https://www.my4dsc.com/universal-toggle-switch-for-cefiro-mirrors/
  • Nissanparts.cc was the cheapest I found and it’s just a Nissan dealer in WA which had the best price vs other dealers if ya Google search the part number 25570-4M410.

This appears to come from OEM ’99-’02 Nissan S15 Power Mirror Control Switch.

Videos:

New OEM Switch 25570-4M410

Generic Switch that comes with Mirrors

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

I wanted to add a sequential shift light to my 2002 Nissan Maxima. After doing some research, I decided to go with the Ecliptech Shift-P2 Shift Light Light. Pretty simple and straightforward to install. I ordered it from the link below and these guys shipped it out super-fast. Would recommend ordering from them if you choose to go this route. It was super easy to install as well.

Order Link: https://flyinmiata.com/products/ecliptech-shift-p2-shift-light?variant=43356833251583
Price: $219.00

Shift-P2 - Ecliptech

Benefits:

  • You get smooth and consistent anticipation of your shift point.
  • It reduces driver workload and fatigue, both in sprint races and endurance events.
  • It provides drivers with reference points for performance.
  • You can achieve consistent staging RPM for standing starts & launches – so no more watching the tacho on the start line!
  • In enduro events, you can manage your fuel by short-shifting at an indicated point below the peak RPM.
    You can improve your lap time consistency and get up to speed at new tracks and with new suspension setups faster.
  • Eliminate unnecessary engine/transmission wear by keeping the RPM within the range you want, without bouncing off the limiter.
  • A good progressive RPM display can give you what you don’t have… a gauge in your peripheral vision showing the range of RPM you’re interested in! It gives you a reference for improving performance and building on skills. For example, maintaining staging RPM while concentrating on race start, smooth anticipated shift points and maintaining corner entry pace.

Installation:

  • RPM (Blue) –> PIN 34 on ECU (Green/White Wire)
  • Switched 12V (Red)
  • Ground (Black)

ECU Pinout:

Demo Video:

Product Feature & Walkthrough from Manufacturer

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

Out of nowhere, I noticed that the trunk on my FX35 was not fully closing. Initially, I thought the actuator was toast and I would need to replace it. When you get the lock, you should be able to hear the trunk latch engage. I wasn’t hearing.

I did some research and found a quick solution. I removed the 15A – BACK DOOR fuse for 30 seconds and plugged it back in. After that, the trunk was opening and closing fine. I may have to replace the actuator soon but at least the trunk is closing. I was worried someone could just randomly open it and take stuff from the trunk.

Hope this helps anyone who has the same issue.

If you need to replace the actual, I found the following information. Adding it here for future reference.

Photo of Actuator

 

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Community Member Credit: Eddy

My recline and power seat move button stopped working. Seems like they were stuck. I’m sure I could have taken it off and tried to prepare it but I found a better solution that worked for me. I bought two Dorman 85919 toggle switches and swapped the button with that. The switches fit great and work 100%. A good option for those who don’t want to pay $100 bucks for a new one. This costs less than $10 bucks to do.

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Community Member Credit: smijus

So I was having some cold start problem. I knew that my battery was good so I did some research and it seemed like the AC Amplifier was the best culprit. So here is the process of replacing the AC Amplifier.

First off, the AC Amplifier is the most expensive plastic box that I’ve ever bought and this is what it looks like.

The only explanation I could find was that the AC amp gathers climate information( outside temp, humidity, etc), sends it to the ECU and that determines the fuel/air mix on start up.

2003-2005 FX35 / FX45

Part Number: 27760-CG000, 27760-CG700, 27760-CL000, 27760-CL01A
Part Description: AMPLIFIER – CONTROL, AIR CONDITIONER
Price: $650.97

 2006-2008 FX35 / FX45

Part Number: 27760-8Y71A
Part Description: AMPLIFIER – CONTROL, AIR CONDITIONER
Price: $650.97

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There are three cable connections at the back of the unit.

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The AC Amplifier sits immediately behind the AC Controls under the main display stack in the middle of the dashboard.

To replace your AC Amplifier, do the following:

1. Take a plastic pry tool or something non-scratching and slowly pry around the bezel of the center display panel.

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2. You’ll need to slowly make your way around the entire bezel until it starts to pry up, before you pull the center stack out, there are two cables that need to be disconnected. One white connector, seen here from the bottom.

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…and one black ribbon cable seen here from the passengers side.

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Once these cables are disconnected, you can remove the entire center stack and set aside for the time being.

3. You will now see the guts of your center stack, and the AC Amplifier, the gray plastic box at the bottom. You will need a Philips head screwdriver to remove the 4 screws holding the center stack in place.

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4. Now you can pull the entire center stack slightly out of place so you can access the 2 Philips head screws that hold the AC Amplifier in place. There is one on either side of the unit, remove them both.

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5. Once these two screws are out, you should be able to pop the box out of place and more easily access the 3 cables at the rear of the AC Amplifier.

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6. Remove the three connectors, replace with the new AC Amplifier and reconnect the 3 cable assemblies.

7. Put the AC Amplifier back into place and return the screw on either side of the unit.

8. Slide the Center Stack back into place and return the 4 mounting screws back into place.

9. Before returning the faceplate, re-attach the white cable and the black ribbon cable.

10. Place the bezel back into place and slowly push firmly around the entire outside of the bezel, you’ll feel the face click back into place.

11. Start up your car and go through all of the functions on the center stack to ensure that everything still works.

12. You’re all done.

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