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my4thgen 95-99

1995-1999 How to Install Ghost Key on 4thgen Nissan Maxima (Plug and Play Push to Start)

Credit: Aidan Barn / ghostedmaxima 

Hi guys! Jordan Distributors recently made a full plug and play kit for our cars so I figured I would do a write-up on how to install it. Here’s everything the kit comes with (the button you choose may vary)

WARNING: If mounted in factory key location, you WILL lose your steering wheel lock feature. If you have an automatic, you WILL lose your shifter lock as well. For 99+ models, you will need to bypass your immobilizer. The install guide that comes with the kit will tell you what wires to use. For 95-98, you can just ziptie them out of the way.

Order Link: https://www.jordandistributors.com/products/ghost-key-plug-and-play-push-to-start-conversion-kit-for-nissan-vehicles?variant=42683438956733
Price: $159.99

Installation Steps

1. First thing you will want to do is disconnect the negative terminal on your battery.

2. Remove all trim surrounding the steering wheel and the ignition cylinder, as well as the panel covering all the wiring underneath.

3. Disconnect your ignition cylinder, and remove everything. There are two tamper proof screws holding it on, as well as the steering wheel lock mechanism. You can either Dremel some flathead indents into them, or use a screwdriver and a hammer and chisel them around so they unscrew. They are not tight.

4. Unplug your brake connector switch above the brake pedal. This kit comes with a clip connector that you will clip onto the red and green wire. Clip that on, then plug the orange wire into the clip.

5. Install the JDi main harness from the control box to the male connector where your original ignition cylinder plugged into. Ground the black wire from the harness somewhere.

6. Put your new start button into the original key cylinder location.

7. You’re nearly there! Plug everything into the JDi control box, and tuck everything into a place that it won’t move. The key sensor can also be mounted anywhere, but I’d recommend taping it with some 3M tape behind the bottom trim panel.

8. Reconnect your negative battery terminal, go over all of your connections to make sure everything is where it’s supposed to be, scan your JDi keyfob or keycard over the sensor, put your foot on the brake, hit the start button, and you are done! Just be sure to put all of your trim pieces back together as well.

NOTE: The car will not turn off if you hit the button while driving. You must push your brake pedal in when pushing the button to turn your car off.

Video:

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my4thgen 95-99

1995-1999 Ghost Key – Plug and Play Push to Start Conversion Kit for 4thgen Nissan Maxima

Jordan Distributors inc. Ghost Key – Plug and Play Push to Start Conversion Kit comes with everything that you will need to add Push to Start to your vehicle without any guesswork, cutting or splicing needed!

Order Link: https://www.jordandistributors.com/products/ghost-key-plug-and-play-push-to-start-conversion-kit-for-nissan-vehicles?variant=42683438956733
Price: $159.99

What’s Included:

  • Plug and Play Main harness
  • JDi Ghost Key Push to Start Module
  • Start Button – Either Red or Silver (both have red backlit letters)
  • Start Button Adapter for Factory Key Hole
  • 2 Standard Black Key Fobs
  • 1 Ghost Key card

Sold Separately:

  • Additional keys (Leather Fob, Adhesive back disc, Additional cards)
  • Hole saw (only needed if you will be mounting your button somewhere other than the factory key hole)
  • Kill Switch (prevents the vehicle from starting even if someone steals your unique key)

New Features Included with Ghost Key:

  • Black key fobs included standard
  • White LED Button Included Standard
  • Ability to Long Crank From the Second Key Position
  • Upgraded Relays, Chips and Components
  • 4 DIP switches for custom settings
    1. Adjustable engine cranking time
    2. Adjustable Auto Re-Locking Time
    3. Ability to Auto Fuel Prime Before Starting (if needed)

Add some much needed security to your vehicle! Make it harder for thieves to steal your pride and joy while adding the style and functionality of a modern vehicle!

Using The Ghost Key – Push to Start Kit:

  • 1 press is like turning the key 1 click
  • 2nd press is like turning the key 2 clicks
  • 3rd press turns everything back off
  • Or press the brake pedal and press the button and the engine will start
  • Easy Install
  • Plug and Play
  • No programming, even if the car battery dies
  • No cutting
  • No splicing
  • Even works with performance engines that take longer to start! (Just hold the button until the engine starts)
  • This kit is completely plug and play and will come with everything you will need to install it in your vehicle.
  • **If you do not see your vehicle listed we may have one available soon as we do have other applications currently in development.**
  • No cutting or modification is necessary.
  • Install time is approximately 30 minutes – 1 hour.
  • For a complete install guide, please refer to our install video under the Install Guide tab here on our website.

Shipping: Shipping in the Continental 48 US States is included free of charge. If you are located outside of the Continental US you can simply add your desired products to your cart and, after entering your address, the website will calculate the exact shipping cost for you.

All of our kits include a 12 Month Warranty against any manufacturing defects. Legal Disclaimer: By purchasing this product, the customer takes full responsibility for any use, and/or misuse of the product and agrees that Jordan Distributors inc. holds no responsibility for any consequences, legal, or other, of such use and/or misuse. Off-road use only. Any cutting or modification of any of our products will void all warranty.

**DO NOT clean your start button with harsh chemicals. This can damage the finish on your button. We recommend using a mild detergent on a damp cloth. Our warranty will not cover damaged start buttons due to misuse. As long as harsh chemicals and sharp objects such as car keys are kept away from the button, the finish will remain nice for years to come. All of our buttons have been proven reliable to over 400,000 presses**

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my3rdgen 89-94

1989-1994 How to Identify and Reset Key Code on 3rdgen Nissan Maxima

Credit: crazy4maxima / kalebonline

Okay I am Seeing a lot of problems how to reset the keypad, Well my part of the write up is to help those with some pics of the location of the security unit. Get a flash light and move the passenger seat all the way back. and lay on your back facing up, head under the glove box where the passengers feet would be. now look up to your left… facing the door you will see a brass box with wires coming out of it.. locate the number starting with the letter “S” ex. S1329123..write those numbers down. IT SHOULD BE 7 DIGITS LONG!

Get out the max and and lock the doors. The Security light should come on the dash and then turn off. Press the St Button (last button to the left) Enter the digits you got from the box, after you enter it you hear beeping from the horn, at this time you must enter a new code with in 10 seconds. Pick a number that you can remember easily. The Code cannot be repeating

Below is an example:

Code consists in this pattern:

  • Keypad Button 1= 12
  • Keypad Button 2= 34
  • Keypad Button 3= 56
  • Keypad Button 4= 78
  • Keypad Button 5= 90

Pattern Notes:

  • Any combo of the keypad buttons 1,2,3,4,5
  • Cannot be repeated… 1 1 5 4 3
  • Good code is……… 1 4 2 4 1 numbers dont repeat back to back
    like the first one.
  • I think the code can be anywhere from 3-8 numbers.

I used this photo since my image station account no longer exists I Googled and found this pic from here on the org.

I had my Maxima since Sep 01.. and i was wondering the same thing on how to change my code… The dealership (stealership) wanted to charge me 100+ to take out the glove box and “Reprogram” the computer. B/S, and all it took me was 3 minutes…when you put your pass code you can open the window, open the trunk and or course open the doors.. the only thing you can close is the door.. the windows and the truck have to closed manually.

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my3rdgen 89-94

1989-1994 How to Change Key Code on 3rdgen Nissan Maxima

Credit: Matt93SE

To find the code, grab a flashlight, then look behind the glovebox, toward the right side tire.. you’ll see a gold colored box with a sticker on it. It has three numbers on it. the middle set (IIRC) is the correct number. it should be around 7 digits.

Now go back outside the car to the keypad. Hit the clear button, then punch that number into your keypad, then you’ll hear a long, sustained beep. While it’s sounding the beep, enter your NEW key code into it. It has to be at least 3 or 4 numbers, forget the total. When you’re done punching it in, just stop pushing buttons and let it sit for a few seconds.

When it gets done beeping, hit the clear button again and punch in the code you entered. It should unlock the doors if they’re locked. Hit the button with TRK on it and it’ll pop the trunk. Hit the WDW or whatever button and it will roll down the front windows.

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my7thgen 09-15

2009-2015 How to Repair Information Display on 7thgen Nissan Maxima | Bad Ribbon Cable

Credit: Nopike

The information display on my 2014 recently stopped working I suspected a bad connection. I removed the gauge cluster and found the ribbon connector, located at the rear of the cluster, This ribbon connects the small LCD display to the cluster.

Because it is pretty cheap and flimsy this connector can come loose and cause the display to not work at all or not work properly. I just removed the plastic connector and reseated it and the ribbon cable. The display now works fine. I’m willing to bet this is the cause of the majority of the problems with this display. Removing the cluster is a surprisingly easy job. I think most people could do this repair in 30-60 minutes.

I would not be surprised if other Nissan vehicles such as the Altima have the same issue. The instructions, although relatively simple, make it look more complicated then it really is. If you work slowly and carefully there really is not much you can screw up. I think I had to remove a total of 5 or 6 screws to get the display out You may have to remove a couple of connectors.

Instructions (Credit: walters_12)

Well, we finally got some near-freezing temps on a sunny day that allowed me to be outside for a while. Nopike was correct on two fronts: the fix worked and the entire job took about 30 minutes. So, an absolutely huge thanks; you saved me at least $1,000! I should mention that, much to my disappointment, this fix did not work immediately; however, my Information Display came back online after about 30 minutes of driving. It could have something to do with how I placed the Information Display’s ribbon cable (see below). Admittedly, I was a bit nervous before starting, but I think most anyone can tackle this job. As a reference, I’m handy, but have no experience with anything auto-related. Pictures are posted in the next post (the first and last pictures were taken just over a month apart). Below is a description of the steps I followed to complete the job.

Documents

1) I downloaded the 2012 version of section IP-Instrument Panel and printed pages IP-10, IP-11, and IP-16.

2) I also downloaded the 2014 version of section MWI – Meter, Warning Lamp & Indicator as the 2012 version did not exist) and printed page MWI-122.

Tools:

  1. Standard (flathead) screwdriver
  2. Philips screwdriver (8” or longer)
  3. Needle-nose pliers
  4. Hand towel or t-shirt

Steps:

*Note parentheses indicate the part number on page IP-10, whereas the brackets indicate the document page numbers.

  1. Move the steering wheel to middle-lower position. I didn’t, but it would have made getting at the Combination Meter screws easier.
  2. Disconnect the battery
  3. Remove the Instrument Side Finisher (5) [IP-16]. It pops off with standard screwdriver and gentle pressure.
  4. Remove the Fuse Block Cover (8) [IP-16]. It just pulls off.
  5. Remove the Instrument Lower Panel (7) [IP-16]. There is one screw you’ll see after removing Fuse Block Cover. There are also three metal clips near top (two left; one right) that pop off with a gentle pull. I let the Instrument Lower Panel hang gently, but you could (optionally) completely remove the Instrument Lower Panel by disconnecting the harness connectors and aspirator hose.
  6. Remove Cluster Lid A (22) [IP-16]. There are two screws near the bottom and four metal clips evenly spaced at top that pop off with a gentle pull. I just let it hang over the center console.
  7. Place a towel or t-shirt on top of the steering column to prevent scratches and remove the Combination Meter (15) [MWI-122]. There are three screws (bottom left, bottom right, top middle). I completely removed the Combination Meter by disconnecting both wire harnesses. I did the rest of the job inside the house.
  8. On the back of the Combination Meter, identify gold ribbon cable for Information Center (bottom, middle). Using a needle-nose pliers, I removed the long, tan plastic piece holding ribbon cable. I then placed the ribbon cable back into position (there will be leeway left and right) and reinstalled the long, tan plastic piece that holds the ribbon cable.
  9. Reassemble by following steps 1-7 in backwards order.

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my5thgen 00-03

5thgen Nissan Maxima Battery Terminal Relocation Reference

Credit: Diyma Slaking

Got the front done for the battery relocation.Left wires a bit long a little disorganized because this isn’t the forever version. I’m going to fab a solid bar to replace small wire from the factory bundle to the distribution block. I will likely replace that distro block with a T-Spec as well. Not that this Amazon clone is bad I be just already a T-Spec one for the rear.

Distribution Block Order Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SCQJNM

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