Very Helpful:
Additional:
Credit: crazy4maxima / kalebonline
Okay I am Seeing a lot of problems how to reset the keypad, Well my part of the write up is to help those with some pics of the location of the security unit. Get a flash light and move the passenger seat all the way back. and lay on your back facing up, head under the glove box where the passengers feet would be. now look up to your left… facing the door you will see a brass box with wires coming out of it.. locate the number starting with the letter “S” ex. S1329123..write those numbers down. IT SHOULD BE 7 DIGITS LONG!
Get out the max and and lock the doors. The Security light should come on the dash and then turn off. Press the St Button (last button to the left) Enter the digits you got from the box, after you enter it you hear beeping from the horn, at this time you must enter a new code with in 10 seconds. Pick a number that you can remember easily. The Code cannot be repeating
Below is an example:
Code consists in this pattern:
- Keypad Button 1= 12
- Keypad Button 2= 34
- Keypad Button 3= 56
- Keypad Button 4= 78
- Keypad Button 5= 90
Pattern Notes:
- Any combo of the keypad buttons 1,2,3,4,5
- Cannot be repeated… 1 1 5 4 3
- Good code is……… 1 4 2 4 1 numbers dont repeat back to back
like the first one. - I think the code can be anywhere from 3-8 numbers.
I used this photo since my image station account no longer exists I Googled and found this pic from here on the org.
I had my Maxima since Sep 01.. and i was wondering the same thing on how to change my code… The dealership (stealership) wanted to charge me 100+ to take out the glove box and “Reprogram” the computer. B/S, and all it took me was 3 minutes…when you put your pass code you can open the window, open the trunk and or course open the doors.. the only thing you can close is the door.. the windows and the truck have to closed manually.
Credit: Matt93SE
To find the code, grab a flashlight, then look behind the glovebox, toward the right side tire.. you’ll see a gold colored box with a sticker on it. It has three numbers on it. the middle set (IIRC) is the correct number. it should be around 7 digits.
Now go back outside the car to the keypad. Hit the clear button, then punch that number into your keypad, then you’ll hear a long, sustained beep. While it’s sounding the beep, enter your NEW key code into it. It has to be at least 3 or 4 numbers, forget the total. When you’re done punching it in, just stop pushing buttons and let it sit for a few seconds.
When it gets done beeping, hit the clear button again and punch in the code you entered. It should unlock the doors if they’re locked. Hit the button with TRK on it and it’ll pop the trunk. Hit the WDW or whatever button and it will roll down the front windows.
Credit: Nopike
The information display on my 2014 recently stopped working I suspected a bad connection. I removed the gauge cluster and found the ribbon connector, located at the rear of the cluster, This ribbon connects the small LCD display to the cluster.
Because it is pretty cheap and flimsy this connector can come loose and cause the display to not work at all or not work properly. I just removed the plastic connector and reseated it and the ribbon cable. The display now works fine. I’m willing to bet this is the cause of the majority of the problems with this display. Removing the cluster is a surprisingly easy job. I think most people could do this repair in 30-60 minutes.
I would not be surprised if other Nissan vehicles such as the Altima have the same issue. The instructions, although relatively simple, make it look more complicated then it really is. If you work slowly and carefully there really is not much you can screw up. I think I had to remove a total of 5 or 6 screws to get the display out You may have to remove a couple of connectors.
Instructions (Credit: walters_12)
Well, we finally got some near-freezing temps on a sunny day that allowed me to be outside for a while. Nopike was correct on two fronts: the fix worked and the entire job took about 30 minutes. So, an absolutely huge thanks; you saved me at least $1,000! I should mention that, much to my disappointment, this fix did not work immediately; however, my Information Display came back online after about 30 minutes of driving. It could have something to do with how I placed the Information Display’s ribbon cable (see below). Admittedly, I was a bit nervous before starting, but I think most anyone can tackle this job. As a reference, I’m handy, but have no experience with anything auto-related. Pictures are posted in the next post (the first and last pictures were taken just over a month apart). Below is a description of the steps I followed to complete the job.
Documents
1) I downloaded the 2012 version of section IP-Instrument Panel and printed pages IP-10, IP-11, and IP-16.
2) I also downloaded the 2014 version of section MWI – Meter, Warning Lamp & Indicator as the 2012 version did not exist) and printed page MWI-122.
Tools:
- Standard (flathead) screwdriver
- Philips screwdriver (8” or longer)
- Needle-nose pliers
- Hand towel or t-shirt
Steps:
*Note parentheses indicate the part number on page IP-10, whereas the brackets indicate the document page numbers.
- Move the steering wheel to middle-lower position. I didn’t, but it would have made getting at the Combination Meter screws easier.
- Disconnect the battery
- Remove the Instrument Side Finisher (5) [IP-16]. It pops off with standard screwdriver and gentle pressure.
- Remove the Fuse Block Cover (8) [IP-16]. It just pulls off.
- Remove the Instrument Lower Panel (7) [IP-16]. There is one screw you’ll see after removing Fuse Block Cover. There are also three metal clips near top (two left; one right) that pop off with a gentle pull. I let the Instrument Lower Panel hang gently, but you could (optionally) completely remove the Instrument Lower Panel by disconnecting the harness connectors and aspirator hose.
- Remove Cluster Lid A (22) [IP-16]. There are two screws near the bottom and four metal clips evenly spaced at top that pop off with a gentle pull. I just let it hang over the center console.
- Place a towel or t-shirt on top of the steering column to prevent scratches and remove the Combination Meter (15) [MWI-122]. There are three screws (bottom left, bottom right, top middle). I completely removed the Combination Meter by disconnecting both wire harnesses. I did the rest of the job inside the house.
- On the back of the Combination Meter, identify gold ribbon cable for Information Center (bottom, middle). Using a needle-nose pliers, I removed the long, tan plastic piece holding ribbon cable. I then placed the ribbon cable back into position (there will be leeway left and right) and reinstalled the long, tan plastic piece that holds the ribbon cable.
- Reassemble by following steps 1-7 in backwards order.
1995-1997 Digital Automatic Climate Control
OEM Part Number: 28525-40U00
1998-1999 Digital Automatic Climate Control
OEM Part Number: 27500-4L000
1999 Digital Automatic Climate Control w/ AMB (Ambient Button)
OEM Part Number: 27500-4L010
Credit: Diyma Slaking
Got the front done for the battery relocation.Left wires a bit long a little disorganized because this isn’t the forever version. I’m going to fab a solid bar to replace small wire from the factory bundle to the distribution block. I will likely replace that distro block with a T-Spec as well. Not that this Amazon clone is bad I be just already a T-Spec one for the rear.
Distribution Block Order Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078SCQJNM
Credit: Diyma Slaking
I am doing a custom dash with a raspberry pi4 and a Onegauge hub. As seen in the pic I will be utilizing the factory temp and fuel gauge to tie in the factory look. You may recall all work I did to get the Bose to control my aftermarket DSP so I can keep the factory look. I think the whole dash look is slick in the 3.0’s (I don’t like the radio appearance in 02/03).It’s a Tenzio HDMI touchscreen.
I will be keeping all the factory dummy lights and adding a neutral indicator. This will also monitor the afr, boost, etc when I get to the supercharger. So I will have to figure out how the ecu sends signal to the dash and which wires are which.
