Picture 1 shows where the buzzer is, but this box is the shift lock assembly. You can remove it by sliding it off of the metal tab. If you are unsuccessful then you can remove the lower dash piece and remove the bolt in picture 2 that is to the right of the park brake release.
Once removed you can see the part number. The US Q45 appears to have a shift lock assembly that uses a different plug so this would not help. However you can tape over the speaker on the grey box and greatly quiten it up. You could go farther by removing the circuit board and glueing over the buzzer hole. It appears like you could unsolder this buzzer or break it open and cut the wire to the buzzer. However I haven’t tried this and couldn’t promise it wouldn’t affect something else, and it’s possible the buzzer is used in some other warning capacity. I don’t have a wiring diagram and just pulled my dash apart looking.
If anyone is wondering, the solution I chose is leave it alone. I don’t mind the back up alarm and it’s what it came with from the factory. I would be tempted to add a toggle switch, but I don’t have a wiring diagram for the car. I am hoping to obtain one
Warning: This procedure is very dangerous, you can very easily screw up your wiring. The key to doing this is taking your time and looking everything over twice before doing it.
If you want the clock display to remain at high intensity when the lights are on…
1) Remove the clock. This may be done with a small flat-blade screwdriver. Insert the screwdriver blade between the lower right hand corner of the plastic dashboard clock panel and the adjacent softer dash board. Slowly pry the panel up. Continue this at all four corners of the contoured panel until the metal snaps which anchor the panel are loose. Remove the panel by pulling outward and downward.
2) Note that the clock’s electrical connector has four wires. Cut the wire which is red with a blue tracer.
3) Install the clock panel. It just snaps into place.
I hope it is of use to some of you thinking about swapping out your “standard” wiper switch for a variable intermittent wiper switch (standard on GLEs; included in GXE’s and SE’s S&C package).
My 97 SE 5sp is a stripper. It does not have the variable intermittent wiper which is available only in the SE Security and Convenience package. I did it for several reasons:
The “standard” wiper looks like something from a Kia parts bin, whereas the variable intermittent wiper switch matches the shape of the “combo” switch and is more aesthetically pleasing.
I truly miss not having the feature of a variable intermittent wiper.
Its a simple and relatively cheap “mod”
I did the swap in about 10 minutes. It is a direct swap. You don’t have to mess with any relays, fuses, etc.
Here are the simple steps to swap out the standard wiper switch with a variable intermittent wiper switch:
Remove lower dash cover (held by 2 screws on each bottom corner, and snap-in clips across the top edge of the cover)
Remove metal knee bolster (held by 2 10mm screws)
Remove steering column cover (Held by 6 philips screws; 4 in front and 2 in the back)
You will expose the column switches. The wiper switch is held by two gold-colored screws. Remove the screws and slide out the wiper switch (direction indicated by the blue arrow).
Unclip wiring harness.
Install wiring harness onto new wiper switch
Install is reverse of removal.
Finish Product:
Note that if your Max is a 97-99 you MUST source a wiper switch from a 97-99. The pin outs are different. (Same goes for 95-96 Maximas).
Manuals don’t have a electronic mount. In an automatic, at idle there is additional vibrations where a manual Maxima (which would be in neutral) would otherwise not experience. Therefore, as mentioned, the electric mounts soften at idle and the actuator will then add pressure to the inner rubber once the throttle increases.
The engine mount (electronic one) is controlled by the ECM. The ECM controls the engine mount operation corresponding to the engine speed and the vehicle speed. The control system has a 2-step control (hard/soft). The motor mounts are supposed to harden up when the RPM’s of the motor goes over about 1000 RPM. When it drops below that, they loosen up. At idle with vehicle stopped the mount is soft and when driving the mount is hard.
Most people disconnect them and cut the wire to avoid ECU shortage. It’s been common in some 5thgens and 6thgens. It will not cause a Check Engine Light (CEL) by disconnecting.
Additional Notes:
The vibration is not even noticeable. I have had mine unplugged for ~6 months and there is no discernable difference at idle or speed.
There is no reason to disconnect them before they fail. It is pretty easy to tell when they do go bad (buzzing/whirring sound after you turn off the car) and even if you don’t fix it right away nothing bad happens. Mine buzzed for ~2 months before I decided to unplug them.
As it turns out, the mount is not really an electric mount, it is a hydraulic device. It uses electricity to run a small electric motor that pumps oil in and out of a rubber bladder. Built into the little motor are contacts that are supposed to shut off the motor after it has rotated some certain number of times. As too many members have found out, this design fails and “poof” goes your ECU.
I ran my 99 i30 with the electric mount unplugged. I read where 5th gens can short out and knock out the ECU. Though I don’t think 4th gens have the problem. Anyway, replacing an ECU on a 99 model can be an expensive ordeal, so I didn’t want to take any chances with the mount’s electric motor causing a short.
Mine have been unplugged and replaced with ES motor mounts for well over 3 years…..
I went to move my car and noticed the cluster was not working. It was lit but it didn’t show any of the numbers and gauges were at zero. I also noted my reverse camera and reverse lights were not working. I used this article on our site to resolve the issue: https://www.my4dsc.com/5thgen-nissan-maxima-10amp-meter-fuse-reference-info-why-it-keeps-blowing/. However, I wanted to make my own version of it.
Symptoms:
Limp Mode
No Reverse Lights
No Dash lights or mileage displayed
Kept blowing 10 AMP Meter Fuse Consistently
Tried:
Swapped ECU to confirm not ECU
Tried New Bulb, Didn’t work
Actual Solution:
First unplugged the mirror to see if the fuse would blow and it didn’t. I put on a new mirror and all was good.
You can see the burnt mark on the mirror connectors. I just replaced it with a spare that I had. You can find them on eBay for around $20-$30 bucks shipped.
Instead of having a gas lever at the driver’s side seat, it’s a switch on the dash.
Also, you gotta have the power going into 1 specific wire. The actuator and switch are only 2 wires but you can have the actuator push against the latch instead of pulling it like I did a first. I just swapped the terminals in the connector. Extremely simple and very quick to install.
I spent less than $10 on everything.
Wire it from the trunk latch release fuse, then it should work without the key.
Installing the one-touch feature on 95-99 Maximas using the AutoLoc WC1000 (link is external)requires you to change the polarity of the sunroof motor. This is because the motor runs off of a negative trigger and the WC1000 uses a positive trigger. This will present some problems. The sunroof motor will get confused in a certain position due to the polarity change.
For example: If your sunroof is open after you “one-touch” and you close it, you will have to “tilt” open and then close before you can one-touch open it again. This sounds like a pain but you get used to it. If this sounds like something you don’t want to deal with then don’t do this install. Other than that I haven’t had any other side effects. Now to start the installation.
Step 1: Remove the little “wings” on the side of the WC1000 and remove the dome light/sunroof switch assy. It is clipped in so use a panel puller or small screwdriver and gently pry it down on the dome light side.
Step 2: You will see a brown connector between the switches and the car’s harness. We’re going to concentrate on the harness side. Cut a slit through the black conduit and peel it back to expose the five wires. They should be black, blue, white, green, and brown. Green and brown are the slide triggers. You will need to cut the blue, white, green, and brown wires. (leave enough room on both sides to work with)
Step 3: Now connect the blue wire from the car’s harness to the white wire at the brown connector and do the same for the white wire (white wire at the harness to blue at the connector) Your basically just switching the two wires.
Step 4: Now you need to reverse the polarity of the sunroof motor. If you pull down on the headliner where it meets the sunroof you will see a blue wire and a red wire coming out of the motor. The blue wire is the ground and connects to the frame of the car. The red is power and plugs into a connector by the windshield. Cut these wires and swap them so the blue wire now receives power and the red ground.
Step 5: be retrieved from the dome light circuit. Peel back the conduit on the harness going to the dome light to expose the red and black wires. Tap into these for power/ground for the WC1000. Now connect the green wire from the car harness to the green wire on the WC1000. Next, connect the brown wire from the car harness to the blue wire on the WC1000.
Step 6: Now at the connector on the car connect the brown wire from the car connector to the brown wire on the WC1000. And then connect the green wire from the car connector to the white wire on the WC1000. You can squeeze the WC1000 under the headliner on the passenger side. There is room between the metal bracket and roof. You may want to insulate with foam. That’s it.
Depending on where the roof was when you started you may have to play with the switches to get it to orient itself, but the roof should now one-touch slide open and closed.
Never had luck with gauges in the middle pod. I’ve had an oil pressure gauge. Then I replaced it with a narrow band AFR. Decided to just stick a clock in there.
I wasn’t really happy with the work on Ortiz pod so I decided to eat the loss and buy some spares and make my own. Thanks to Justin for the parts and creative help.
Vent gauge pod from Ortiz custom pods will not fit 05-06 models. They should fit 02-04 models They are also built differently than advertised. Pics attached.
