Engineered to perform where others have failed, Racingline Strut bars are engineered to be both classic in style and functional in design.
Price: $99.99
Designed to be a simple bolt on product, the Racingline strut tower bar connects the strut towers to provide for a more rigid chassis that rewards the driver with greater steering feedback and response. Along with the improved steering feel, better cornering ability and stability are also realized. Allowing the driver to more confidently control the vehicle during cornering maneuvers.
Ample space around the intake manifold is enough to accommodate popular IM spacer kits.
Internally the bar is divided into 3 chambers with 2 vertical walls to aid in rigidity, while maintaining the light properties aluminum is known for. Available in a high luster polish or semi gloss black.
Here’s something I wrote up and originally posted on nissanclub.
I have a 05 auto 2.5. I ended up spending 3 hours trying to install the MMI just for the front and was unable to get the mount back in with the MMI so just put the mount back on without it…
I took pictures during my attempt to install for a little writeup, although I was unable to get it to work maybe these pics can help someone else.
Here are the three 17mm bolts you need to remove view from underneath the car
View from engine bay of the motor mount
Once I removed the 3 bolts, I jacked up the engine a bit to get enough room to wiggle the mount out. I was able to pull the mount out going upward standing in front of the car reaching down into the engine bay.
Here is the mount removed next to the inserts, you can see the empty cavities (*Notice I received 2 front MMIs, Taz later sent me a new rear insert)
Here is the mount with the insert
Here is a sideview of the mount with insert, the right side bulges out, and I had problems putting the mount back in.
A closeup to where the center bolt on the mount connects to, there is an area sticks out around the center bolt to prevent the mount from kicking upward. This is where I had problems fitting insert since it bulged out and it was hitting the center bolt area that sticks out in the picture below. I was trying to insert the mount back in from going down standing in front of the car reaching down into the engine bay.
I only tried to install the front mount on my 2.5 so far, I took a look at the rear and it was so cramped I didn’t even want to try… Like others has said, the install isn’t that long and I can see how the front should only take 30 minutes, but I usually take a bit more time trying to be careful and had problems so it took me quite a while…
I probably will have a shop install the rear and give the front a try another day…
Remove the battery compartment cover and crowl top cover to access the IPDM.
IPDM
Lay some rag over the batter terminals so that your IPDM cover won’t be all scratched up and to protect the wires from sharp edges on the battery terminals.
Remove the IPDM, reach behind the IPDM and squeeze the two tabs toward the front of the car and lift it from the bracket.
Remove the IPDM cover, use a small flat head screwdriver and lightly pry the tabs up while you pull the cover away from it.
Remove the IPDM from it backing bracket, carefully work the wire bundle out of the guide tabs at the bottom of the backing bracket. Spread the two tabs on top of the backing bracket and then pull up to take the IPDM internal off the backing bracket.
You will need the front valve cover from a 350z and modify the plenum to clear the hood. The FWD fwd valve cover on the driver’s side won’t work cause of the oil plug.
The Front Strut Bar does fit
You can use everything from your 2K2 including the ECU and Electronic TB
350z Lower Intake is 350z with 350z injectors (Direct Bolt-on)
The Rails are the same but the injectors are different.
Most people won’t do this mod because of the hood clearance issue. But you can easily use a Hood Scoop.
The powerband is much smoother. The TPS piece is made out of a piece of sheet metal and aluminum.
Description: 2002-2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L Exhaust Manifold Racing Header Stainless Steel Part Number: 102233 Price: $115.74 (Shipped)
Important Note:
These show 2.5L vs 3.5L. Josh confirmed they are for the 3.5L and he installed on his Maxima. He is local to them.
As you’re aware these require modification of y-pipe for perfect fitment. Please research it. This has always been known with the Altima VQ35DE headers. They are NOT plug-n-play. But for the price, they are very well worth it. These also come with a downpipe so it makes an even more awesome price.
A few maxima members have already ordered and confirmed this is a legit shop. They’ve received their ordered with no issues.
.org member Curt has come up with a unique way of mounting his 4th gen IACV with the swap, as well as routing hoses. Here is his idea…
Lots of discussion and controversy about where to route the air from the 4th gen. IACV to the UIM, and I don’t know if there’s any one answer. But here’s mine and the logic behind it.
First, the what. I used the 4th gen. IACV with a Stephen Max adapter mounted hanging from the end of the VIAS. I kept the 3/8″ brass nipple that Steve had pre-installed, since I was confident in his experience and knowledge (and to also mention his intelligence in thinking these sorts of things through). The output hose from the IACV was routed underneath the UIM runners, exiting from under the #1 cylinder runner by the chain cover end of the engine, then looping around back to where the plastic nipple is on the end of the UIM that applies vacuum to the brake booster. I T’d the IACV hose into that line just above the plastic nipple.
Now, the why. Here’s the logic of why I tried (and have been completely satisfied with) this setup. An engine is, in simple terms, and air pump. These 3 liter engines at idle try to pump almost one cubic foot of air per second. With the TB butterfly closed, the engine is straining to suck in air from wherever it can get it.
On startup it initially gets only a tiny amount from the brake booster as all that’s really happening is creating a vacuum within the brake booster. And even if the engine sucked all of the air out of the booster (in effect creating a perfect vacuum), that would only be a fraction of one cubic foot. Secondly, once there’s a vacuum created in the brake booster there’s a check valve in the vacuum line between the UIM and the brake booster that’s intended to keep the booster from losing the vacuum.
Now let’s assume that you’re cruising down the road with little vacuum in the UIM (in other words, heavy throttle) and for some reason the brake booster has been having its vacuum bleed off. If you were to try to brake with your left foot as you kept the right foot on the accelerator (not recommended), the brakes wouldn’t likely have the boost assist necessary and stopping would be a problem. But it used to be that most people learned to drive using their left foot only for the clutch so that if sometimes they were driving a MT car and sometimes an AT car, they wouldn’t get their feet confused in a panic situation.
So, properly using you right foot to stomp the brakes, even if the brake booster had been real short of vacuum when your foot was on the accelerator, as soon as you lifted it to apply the brakes, the butterfly plate in the TB would have closed and in an instant there would have been good vacuum in the brake booster unless there was sort of a problem beyond the check valve at the booster (and having the IACV plumbed into the booster line wouldn’t affect that kind of a problem anyway). Simple logic persuaded my to try this setup and I’ve had no regrets.
A Techtom MDM-100 Monitor allows the driver to view a number of engine sensor parameters in real time using ECU data. It is plug-n-play and installs in seconds! Long recognized as the most advanced monitor for Nissans, the MDM-100 allows you to watch two different parameters/sensors at the same time, and in real time.
Important Note: This only works on 1995-1996 Nissan Maxima ECUs.
Within seconds you can have the MDM-100 plugged in and displaying engine readings on its easy-to-read backlit LCD. You can see 2 sets of readings on one screen. Additional ECU data is easily obtained using the easy-to-operate 3 button control. Examples: Speed and Water Temp Battery and Ignition Timing.
