Owner: Caleb Anderson
Year: 2005
Model: Altima
Color: Silver
Engine: LM7 5.3L LS1
Transmission: GM TH400 Automatic Transmission
Trim: SE-R
YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/calebanderson132
OEM Part Number: 22630-44B20
Price: $20.00-$30.00
On the 4th Generation Maxima engine the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the water outlet tube close to the engine end of the upper radiator hose. There are two sensors in that area. The one nearest the hose is for the dashboard temperature gauge. The ECTS, the one you’re interested in, is right next to the the gauge sending unit. There is a good picture of these sensors in the Haynes manual on page 3-7.
With the engine cold, disconnect the ECTS and measure its resistance. Reconnect the ECTS, start the engine, run it until fully warmed up. Stop the engine, and repeat the resistance measurement. The “warm” reading should be a much lower value than the “cold” reading.
The specs for the ECTS are:
- Engine coolant temperature 68F, ECTS resistance 2.1 – 2.9 Kohms
- Engine coolant temperature 194F, ECTS resistance 0.24 – 0.26 Kohms
Replacements Symptoms/Notes:
- Below about 30 degrees idle will die if I don’t keep my foot on the gas at startup. Once engine is warm it’s OK.
- Just a quick update for anyone having the same problem. Replaced the CTS (ECU Temp sensor in the picture) and guess what? My multi-year cold start problem is OVER! She runs like new again. Over $1000 spent on MAF, TB cleaning, and more and all I needed to do was replace a $9.00 sensor.
Community Member Credit: Chris Strasser
There are also two variations of the 2nd Gen VQ35DE engine. A Maxima engine is equipped with EVT ( Exhaust Valve Timing ) and has a slightly higher compression ratio along with larger intake manifold and throttle body (75mm). The Altima engine has a slightly lower compression ratio, and is not equipped with EVT. The intake manifold and throttle body (70mm) are also a bit smaller.
Notes:
- The OBX V2 headers don’t fit with 2020 upper
- I used the 2020 new pan, got new headers made. It’s not a big deal.
- I just tried to fit a 2020 Vq35 windage tray with a 2002 upper oil pan and it didn’t fit. I had to remove the 2020 one and use the 2002.
- I used the 2014 windage tray but had to grind a few spots to make it work. It was hitting the ribs in the 2002 oil pan.
- I believe you remove the one on the motor because the wind tray is built into 02 oil pan.
- What is the main reason to change the upper and lower oil pans, Is it a height or sensor issue? If it’s just a height issue, can that be solved with the raiser motor mounts? Exhaust issue. Depending what headers/ ypipe you use if they are made for the 5.5 upper oil pan they might not work w the deeper 2nd gen oil pan
- Bottom line is it’s best to have the correct oil pan that goes to the car
Credit: George Rodriguez
So the reason my car completely died and wouldn’t start was because these two neutrals fell out the lug fyi and save y’all the headache.
Manuals don’t have a electronic mount. In an automatic, at idle there is additional vibrations where a manual Maxima (which would be in neutral) would otherwise not experience. Therefore, as mentioned, the electric mounts soften at idle and the actuator will then add pressure to the inner rubber once the throttle increases.
The engine mount (electronic one) is controlled by the ECM. The ECM controls the engine mount operation corresponding to the engine speed and the vehicle speed. The control system has a 2-step control (hard/soft). The motor mounts are supposed to harden up when the RPM’s of the motor goes over about 1000 RPM. When it drops below that, they loosen up. At idle with vehicle stopped the mount is soft and when driving the mount is hard.
Most people disconnect them and cut the wire to avoid ECU shortage. It’s been common in some 5thgens and 6thgens. It will not cause a Check Engine Light (CEL) by disconnecting.
Additional Notes:
- The vibration is not even noticeable. I have had mine unplugged for ~6 months and there is no discernable difference at idle or speed.
- There is no reason to disconnect them before they fail. It is pretty easy to tell when they do go bad (buzzing/whirring sound after you turn off the car) and even if you don’t fix it right away nothing bad happens. Mine buzzed for ~2 months before I decided to unplug them.
- As it turns out, the mount is not really an electric mount, it is a hydraulic device. It uses electricity to run a small electric motor that pumps oil in and out of a rubber bladder. Built into the little motor are contacts that are supposed to shut off the motor after it has rotated some certain number of times. As too many members have found out, this design fails and “poof” goes your ECU.
- I ran my 99 i30 with the electric mount unplugged. I read where 5th gens can short out and knock out the ECU. Though I don’t think 4th gens have the problem. Anyway, replacing an ECU on a 99 model can be an expensive ordeal, so I didn’t want to take any chances with the mount’s electric motor causing a short.
- Mine have been unplugged and replaced with ES motor mounts for well over 3 years…..
Credit: Joseph Carsella
Finally got rid of the old hood bumpers. The hood was sitting about half an inch lower than the fender. I wasn’t too sure how to put them in originally but I covered the ‘threads’ in soapy water and pressed them in at a slight angle while turning. Turns out they actually screw in or out once you get the first layer in.
Alternate Solution
To address airflow/pressure under the hood, Nissan sells a rubber weatherstrip kit that fits into the groove of the headlights. It’s like $17 for the pair. They look pretty good, too.
