Credit: Austin Smith
Steps:
- Remove headlights, corners, grill, and bumper lights
- Remove bolts that attach bottom splash guards to the front bumper
- Remove 3 bolts under the grill
- Remove 3 bolts on each side attaching the bumper to the fender (they can be accessed from the bottom of the car. Reach your hand from the bottom towards the top. You should feel them and see them)
Additional Reference
Credit: Brendan Soriano
Product Info:
- Description: 15.5″ Snugtop 3M Third Brake Light | Type: SL-1335NT – Clear Lens
- Price: $54.95 + Shipping
- Brake Light: https://www.ebay.com/itm/275229660098
- Backup Camera: https://www.ebay.com/itm/394106889708
Community Member Credit: Eddy
If your roof trim is missing clips or has completely fallen off, then below are the part numbers you need. They usually break off while at the car wash or power-washing your car at home.
I recommend getting the aftermarket clips from Amazon. You get 10 of them for less than $20 bucks whereas the dealer its almost $10 bucks each with tax. They are exactly the same.
Driver Side LH:
- Part Number: 73853-8J000
- Part Description: Moulding-Roof Side,Front
- Price: $85.78
Passenger Side RH:
- Part Number: 73852-8J000
- Part Description: Moulding-Roof Side,Front
- Price: $85.78
Molding Rail Clips:
- Part Number: 73858-8J000
- Part Description: Clip Moulding
- OEM Price: $8.25/each (Need 12)
- Aftermarket Price: $15-$20.00 (Set of 10) Order Link
Credit: Will
NOTE: Use General Judgment (a.k.a Common Sense) when doing modifications like these. This is just what I did to install this spoiler on my car so I am not liable for you drilling a hole in your car or messing something up OK! If you cannot attempt to do this take it to a body shop where they have more experience with fitment issues and putting parts on cars!
Tools:
- Drill
- A few small drill bits
- A ratchet and some sockets
- Silicone
- Another person (4 hands are better than one, my wife helped me, it took us about 2 hours to install it)
- Longer bolts and lock washers than what came w/the spoiler (take the spoiler to the local hardware store and get different length bolts and check the threads to make sure they fit)
- Marker
- Wire taps (to tap into the brake light wiring)
NOTE: This spoiler was made to fit a Mitsubishi Galant’s trunk it is flat all the way across and I put it on my 1997 Nissan Maxima and the Maxima’s trunk is rounded on the ends so it DOES NOT FIT EXACTLY flush on the ends but must bee seen up close to recognize it. I have had my spoiler on my car for 3 years w/no problems at all.
The GTZ spoiler will come w/some short bolts (because it was made for a Galant trunk and the Galant trunk is thinner than a Maxima trunk, also the Maxima’s’ trunk has two walls to drill through) about an 1″ long you will need to buy some bolts that are about 1 ?? long to go all the way through the trunk to tighten into the spoiler. The spoiler will come with a template and a rubber gasket center the gasket and template on the trunk lid and mark your drill points w/a marker. Drill a pilot hole in all the 5 places, two each side for the spoiler bolts and one on the left side for the L.E.D. brake wiring to go through. You will need to drill through both walls on the trunk. Please be patient will all this drilling your holes need to line up. Place the spoiler on the trunk lid and test fit your holes to see if they are straight if they are remove the spoiler and then apply some silicone in around the holes and on the bottom on the spoiler. Tighten down all your bolts to a good and snug hand tight fit. Then run your brake light wiring to the brake light wiring then tap into the ground and the power of the brake light and then splice into it.
Community Member Credit: z_maxima
Hey Guys, I’m sure you have seen this over and over here. I just thought I share my photos as well. I should of replaced the support 6 years ago when I first spotted the rust during an inspection. I had no idea it was a common problem at the time.
After getting some expensive pricing on replacing the support, I decided to do this on my own. Many of the pictures that the owners posted here were very helpful in guiding me to complete this task.
Bumper Removal
1. Remove the center grille.
2. Remove side light first. A small screw on the top. Pop from the front out.
3. Remove main headlights, 2 side bolts, 2 10mm nuts from the back.
4. Remove the lower signal lights. Pop the smaller side marker light first, remove the screw, then remove the main signal light. Disconnect all wires.
5. Remove the 3 bolts holding the center bumper.
6. Remove the left and right retainers on the bumper that were under the Main headlights. 6 10mm bolts total.
7. Remove all the engine covers attach to the bumper underneath
8. Remove front wheels to open the liners to access the 3 10 mm nuts holding the side bumper to the fender. 6 total.
9. Bumper should be free to come off. fog lights are attached to the inner reinforcing bar. no need to remove them. Just disconnect wires.
Photos:
1: 98 SE
2: As soon I remove the lower covers, rust!
3: Front view of the support
4: Underneath view of the support
5: Bumper and wheels removed
6: Complete removal of front end parts
7: Removing the spot welds, 32 total and 6 others I use a sawzall.
8: Removing the old support
9: The mess
10: The old and new support side by side.
11: New support in place
12: New support welded in place.
13: First coat of POR 15 rust preventive paint.
14: Second coat of POR 15 Chassis Coat Black
15: Painted all front end parts before the bumper.
16: Done, 2 days later. A total of 14 hours, due to additional painting and cleaning that a body shop probably wouldn’t do.
