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Credit: Justin Morrison

Everyone I spoke to about this insisted that the entire fuel rail needed to be removed to change the injectors. However, I found a video demonstrating a way to do it without removing the fuel rail. The injector only cost me $2, and now the car is running as well as it did before all the issues. I hope this information helps someone else. You have no idea how happy we are that it’s finally fixed!

 

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Credit: la_fx35

Perform this DIY at your own risk. Please DO NOT have open flames near the gas tank and work in a well ventilated area. As your FX age, the gas gauge gradually become less accurate to the amount of gas left in the tank. This DIY will fix the gas gauge problem.

I would recommend to do this fix when your tank is close to empty to avoid fuel continually spraying out of the fuel line as you disconnect it from pump.

Tools: Pencil with eraser top, pliers, screw drivers (philips and flat), 8 mm socket and ratchet.

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To begin, remove the rear seat by pulling on the black ring at the bottom edge of the seat and
lift the seat. Remove the seat and the flimsy insulation sheet.

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To remove the access door to the gas pump assembly and sender, use a philips screw driver and turn the black plastic locks in the direction imprinted on the lock. I find using a pliers is much easier than a screw driver

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Start with the sender unit located on the driver side rear seat. Undo the six 8 mm bolts, unplug the electrical connector, remove the fuel sender retainer ring and lift the send unit out of the tank.

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Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.

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In this pic the part in the red circle is dirty. The part in the green circle has already been cleaned.
To clean, using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.

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All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.

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Now start to work on the send unit that is attached to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is located on the passenger side rear seat. To removing the fuel line, squeeze the white tab and pull on the fuel line to separate them. There will be a little squirt of fuel when they become apart. Have some rags handy!

If your tank is full, you may need a cup/pan to catch the fuel as it will continually dripping
from the disconnected fuel line.

Unplug the electrical connector. Undo the six 8 mm bolts to remove the fuel pump retainer ring. Note, when you undo the last couple of bolts, hold the retainer ring as the fuel pump will try to pop out of the tank.

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Carefully lift and work the pump assembly out of the tank. Use a flat head screw driver and gently pry on the hooks to expose the part that needs to be cleaned.

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Dirty sender leads. Again using the eraser, gently rub the black deposit off the silver leads.

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All clean up. Move the floater arm to the center and pop the plastic cover back on. Insert the sender unit back into tank, bolt the sender retainer ring back, plug the electrical connector back and put the access door back.

Turn the locks in the opposite direction of the imprinted arrow to lock the access door in place. I find using a pliers is much easier to turn the locks back.

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Additional Photos:

The fuel pump listed at $258.

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Fuel pump sender unit circuit board.

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Stand alone (driver side) sender unit circuit board.

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Before:

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After:

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Replacement Part Numbers

  • O-ring 17342-CE800 (You need two of these)
  • Bracket 17045-1EA0A 
  • Sender 25060-1CB1C
  • Sender 25060-1CB0C 

 

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Community Member Credit: Roger McDonald

Benefits:

  • Basically what is does is keep the voltage stable at 13+ volts. The stock wiring is connected to other electronics so it robs voltage from the pump.
  • You’ll hear the pump prime louder than it is now. Getting that raw voltage!

Part Description: OEM 40205G Electric Fuel Pump Harness and Relay Wiring Kit NEW
Price:
$22.99
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/362526377653

Photos:

Video:

 

 

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Our 350z Fuel Rails are machined from billet T6061 Aluminum stock. The rail has a larger bore diameter than stock, allowing fuel flow to increase 350% more over stock (as seen above). The rail comes clear anodized to help protect against the elements. The rail is tapped to accept dash 6 fittings. Our rails are unique in the fact that you can either use your stock injectors or use taller aftermarket bosch style injectors to upgrade your fuel system. The rail comes with four dash 6 O-ring to dash 6 AN fittings, aluminum spacers to allow use with either style injectors, and stainless button head hardware.

Important Note: These fuel rails fit the 2002-2008 VQ35DE Nissan Maxima. Additionally, 350z injectors fit on Maxima rail with no issue. A 350z rail is not needed if just changing the injectors.

Price: $175.00

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