All of the third generation Maximas feature many standard options. The U.S. third generation Maxima came in two models, the SE and GXE. The SE, targeted a sporty end of the market while the GXE emphasized more luxury features. The SE features stiffer springs, sway bars, struts, strut mounts, and bushings. Also, from 1992 – 1994, the SE had a high output DOHC engine with variable timing control. Here are some standard features that both models share.
Standard allow wheels- 6.5 inch on the SE, 6 inch on the GXE
Four wheel independent suspension
Power windows, locks
Power/Comfort button for automatic transmissions
Cruise Control
Air conditioning
Standard security system (ignition disable, doors, trunk, hood- no shock sensor)
Rear window defrost
SE vs. GXE:
Tighter suspension, thicker sway bars on SE, not GXE
Dual tipped exhausts on SE versus a single tip on the GXE
Black rear view mirrors on SE versus body colored Mirrors on GXE
Rear disk brakes on SE, rear drums on the GXE
5 speed manual available on SE, automatic-only on GXE
6.5 inch rims on SE, 6 inch rims on GXE
Driving lights standard on SE’s, no driving lights on GXE
Spoiler standard on SE, no spoiler standard on GXE
White gauges standard on SE, black guages on the GXE with reduced bolding.
Sport leather steering wheel on SE, standard steering wheel on GXE
DOHC high output engine on 92 – 94 SE models, SOHC on all GXE’s
standard exterior door locks on SE, GXE’s standard with keyless entry
1989-1991 SE specific
VG30E SOHC engine generating 160 hp and 182 ft lbs of torque.
Standard Moonroof
Standard Bose Radio
Black rear lenses
Split front grill with a small “Nissan” sign
Standard with H rated tires
lever to open trunk left of driver’s seat
1989 – 1991 SE & GXE specific
hinged door under radio
all speedometers at 1 25 mph
all tachometers redline at 6000 rmps
split grille with Nissan name
1991 changes
New Bose stereo face design started
chromed wheels started
Extended mirrors on SE models
1992 changes
An extendable bin under the radio
OD light is different in that it is spelled out instead of a separate light on the right
SE’s now have a button to open the trunk instead of the lever.
stronger transmission for VG30E
plastic bezel around the radio/climate control changed in that there are no screws above the radio to remove.
new steering wheels for each model.
New mesh grille with Nissan logo.
Black rear gone, SE’s have read rear lenses with a slight lens design change.
1992-1994 SE specific
VE30DE DOHC engine generating 190 hp and 190 ft lbs of torque
VLSD Viscous Limited Slip Differential) – if last letter on transmission code = V.
Red rear end
Meshed front grill with Nissan logo in center.
Heated side mirrors
Came standard with V rated tires (up to 149 mph)
speedometer to 145 mph, tachometer to 6700 rpm redline
Now before getting started my initial impressions on the key fob:
I got mine from RemoteHub on ebay.
You’ll want to buy the one that is the conversion case and transponder chip only (TRANSPONDER CHIP THAT CAME FROM EBAY WILL NOT BE USED!!!).
Initial impressions were that the case was relatively cheap, felt a little weaker than the OEM key fob that came with the car. Switchblade assembly was good and strong though. I was a little disappointed because I felt like I paid $40 bucks for a weak piece of plastic and a key. I would have been satisfied if this product had cost $20-$25, or at least come with the key fob components for $40. So for potential buyers I would recommend try to find a cheaper retailer, or wait it out for paypal/ebay coupons (10$ off shipping would be the best one to use!) But RemoteHub does offer 10% off around the end of the month even though that only saves you a buck or two 😛
After everything has been said and done and the project was completed, I’m happy that I did it, its a simple and stupid mod but I always liked the Euro flip style on the VW’s so I’m glad there was such a thing out there for Nissan’s.
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Well lets get started:
Estimated cost: $35-$50 Difficulty: 3/10
Tools/Stuff needed:
Your current key, & key fob
Euro flip style conversion case with key
New key fob (optional)
Small screwdriver
Small flathead
Small pliers
Exacto blade or knife
Some other cutting utensil (optional but would make getting the transponder chip out easier)
Blow dryer (optional)
Super glue
Masking tape
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There are a couple ways you can approach this. You can either use your key fob or buy a new one and reprogram it.
Either way you’re gonna be destroying one. That said I used my OEM key fob because I didn’t need an extra one.
(Your Key will not have a transponder chip in it at the end of this so there’s no point in getting another key fob IMO)
The hardest part of this project is probably destroying your OEM key and trying to get the transponder chip out.
Second hardest was reassembling everything. (May have been easier if I secured the circuit board for the key fob, so that the components didn’t fall out while trying to reassemble, but I didn’t think about that while do it)
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INSTUCTIONS:
1. Slice open your OEM key, along the side where you can see the seal. Use the blade to break the seal and just keep cutting along until the casing will open enough to wear you can pry it open with the small flathead.
2. Now you’ll see how the transponder chip has been installed. You’ll want to use the exacto blade or some other cutting tool (I’d think an air tools sander/saw would work well here) to cut up a few of the walls that the chip is placed in.
3. Now heat up casing with the blow drier to see if the chip will budge if it does slow pry it out, be careful not to damage it. If this doesn’t work continue to work on other walls until you can pry the chip free. (try your best to keep the key casing in chunks rather than small small pieces so you can put it back together without the chip. You’re done with the hardest part!
4. Put back together the OEM key with the transponder chip removed, I taped it up with masking tape so that its holdable, keep the chip in a safe spot for now and go get the key copied. If you do it like this no one gives you a hard time about it having a chip in it or not because well.. it doesn’t! I was skeptical about doing it at a regular hardware store instead of the dealership because my local Sears Hardware employee didn’t have a clue what “tape” to use for the copy. But I told them it was a Nissan and they got it done. When everything was said and done the imprints on the copied were a little different but the valleys were exact. It worked in the car for me and only cost me $1.60 so good deal!
5. Now with the switchblade key cut, you’ll work on the key fob components
a) Open up your current key fob (stick in a flat head or key on the bottom end next to the panic button and turn)
b) Take a look a good look at how everything is placed. Open up the flip style case with the small screwdriver. The key and spring and button will come apart but just leave that to the side.
c) You’ll need to slice the with the exacto blade panic button off and slice off the clear keypad panic button also. (This is right under the red panic button) – Why do this? because the switchblade key only has 3 button openings, the panic cannot be used because it is located at the bottom, the 4th button. It simply will not fit in the case even if you didn’t want to cut it and tried to pack it in.
d) Transfer the remaining buttons, keypad and board into the switchblade case.
e) Now on the other side of the OEM key fob there’s the battery and battery holder/plate. Transfer this to the other side of the switchblade case.
f) Super glue the transponder chip in the designated area of the switchblade case as seen above. Just add a drop or two, place it in and let it dry. Now I’m not sure if the direction the chip is important or not but I put it like it was on the OEM key, the smaller area towards the key insert. ex:
6. Reassemble the switchblade case
This might be a little difficult if you don’t know how the switchblade works.
a) Assemble the button, key, and spring. Assemble this to the side where the key fob buttons are and hold with your right hand with the buttons facing your palm so the key/spring/button don’t fall out. (The actual key should be held by your fingers along side of the case, (Closed form) As seen in picture below:
b) Grab the other board, now join the two the two boards together by placing the bottom of the spring on the base with the battery (There’s an insert for the bottom of the spring leg, fits only one way)
c) The key flips out counter clockwise so you’ll need to rotate counter clockwise just once after you’ve seated the spring. Attach both sides together hold it firmly together with one hand.
d) Start screwing the case back together with the other hand. Make sure the all buttons work and the key flips out.
7. *Optional step* The switchblade case should have come with the a Nissan sticker to go on the back. Peel the sticky and place it on the back to cover up the hole for screws.
You’re done!!!
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I hope this clears up some things for people who were confused by the original thread. Sorry I didn’t take pictures along the way! If you’re still confused and really set on this project go buy it and once you have the key fob and switchblade case open you’ll understand very quickly and see how simple this mod actually is. Learn from experience!
Have to give thanks to g35driver guys for originally bringing the switchblade topic up, but also to kevincat b/c he actually found a nice Nissan case and posted on here, and thanks for his pics again!
Best of luck to all!
If you’re still confused let me know your questions and I’ll try my best to edit this thread to answer them.
Auto Warranties, Routine Maintenance, and Repairs: Is Using the Dealer a Must?
If you own a car, you know how important it is to keep up with routine maintenance and repairs. But can a dealer refuse to honor the warranty that came with your new car if someone else does the routine maintenance or repairs?
The Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the nation’s consumer protection agency, says no. In fact, it’s illegal for a dealer to deny your warranty coverage simply because you had routine maintenance or repairs performed by someone else. Routine maintenance often includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, fluid checks and flushes, new brake pads, and inspections. Maintenance schedules vary by vehicle make, model and year; the best source of information about routine scheduled maintenance is your owner’s manual.
What is a warranty?
A warranty is a promise, often made by a manufacturer, to stand behind its product or to fix certain defects or malfunctions over a period of time. The warranty pays for any covered repairs or part replacements during the warranty period.
Do I have to use the dealer for repairs and maintenance to keep my warranty in effect?
No. An independent mechanic, a retail chain shop, or even you yourself can do routine maintenance and repairs on your vehicle. In fact, the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act, which is enforced by the FTC, makes it illegal for manufacturers or dealers to claim that your warranty is void or to deny coverage under your warranty simply because someone other than the dealer did the work. That said, there may be certain situations where a repair may not be covered. For example, if you or your mechanic replaced a belt improperly and your engine is damaged as a result, your manufacturer or dealer may deny responsibility for fixing the engine under the warranty. However, according to the FTC, the manufacturer or dealer must be able to demonstrate that it was the improper belt replacement — rather than some other defect — that caused the damage to your engine. The warranty would still be in effect for other parts of your car.
Will using ‘aftermarket’ or recycled parts void my warranty?
No. An ‘aftermarket’ part is a part made by a company other than the vehicle manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer. A ‘recycled’ part is a part that was made for and installed in a new vehicle by the manufacturer or the original equipment manufacturer, and later removed from the vehicle and made available for resale or reuse. Simply using an aftermarket or recycled part does not void your warranty. The Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act makes it illegal for companies to void your warranty or deny coverage under the warranty simply because you used an aftermarket or recycled part. Still, if it turns out that the aftermarket or recycled part was itself defective or wasn’t installed correctly, and it causes damage to another part that is covered under the warranty, the manufacturer or dealer has the right to deny coverage for that part and charge you for any repairs. The FTC says the manufacturer or dealer must show that the aftermarket or recycled part caused the need for repairs before denying warranty coverage. Tips To Avoid Warranty Issues
Here’s how to get the most out of your vehicle’s warranty:
Read your warranty. Often bundled with your owner’s manual, the warranty gives a general description and specific details about your coverage. If you have misplaced your owner’s manual, look for it online. Check the “Owners” section of your manufacturer’s website.
Be aware of your warranty period. If problems arise that are covered under the warranty, get them checked out before the warranty expires.
Service your car at regular intervals. This is a good idea in any case. But for the sake of keeping your warranty intact, follow the manufacturer’s recommended service schedule. Details are in your owner’s manual.
Keep all service records and receipts, regardless of who performs the service. This includes oil changes, tire rotations, belt replacement, new brake pads, and inspections. Create a file to keep track of repairs; it will come in handy if you have to use your warranty. If you ever have a warranty claim and it appears that you did not maintain your vehicle, your claim could be denied.
Complain. If you think a dealer’s service advisor denied your warranty claim unfairly, ask to speak with a supervisor. If you still aren’t satisfied, contact the manufacturer or go to another dealer. You also may wish to file a complaint with your state Attorney General, local consumer protection office, local Better Business Bureau, or the FTC.
