my5thgen 00-03 12/27/2020

How to Install RedLineGoods 6-Speed Transmission Shift Boot on 2002-2003 Nissan Maxima

Credit: redlinegoods

1. In order to remove the front section, you must first remove the shift knob (just unscrew it from the shifter shaft – if it’s difficult, use vice grips on it after wrapping it with a towel to protect it from scratches). Then remove the liner of the shifter. That is easy, just pull on your shift boot and it pops up…picture shows this.

Replace the old boot with the new one installing it to the trim pieces taken out from the old boot. VERY simple and straightforward.

2. In order to install the ebrake boot, it is better to remove the armrest console. This will make it look easier since you need to attach the boot to the same holes/slits as the stock rubber boot. There is a screw inside the armrest, accessible from the back…

3. … and two more, one on each side of the console.

4. Next you need to remove the cloth ashtray cover. Underneath it there is a screw you need to remove.

5. Now simply lift the lower section of the center console. It will snap off and you will see 2 screws located below it.

6. Remove those 2 screws. You will also see that the armrest console is connected with 2 snap-ins from the sides of the center console. You can pull those on the side to separate them. It sounds confusing, but once you do this… the whole armrest console comes up.

7. When installing the ebrake boot, we suggest you take the rubber boot off and put the ebrake boot on it’s it place. It’s obvious which side is which, since one side is all slits, and the other side is a line of studs. once you have it in, put the the rubber boot back on…. It will hold the leather boot in place. It feels like a tight fit, but it’ll make the leather nice and snug.

Putting the center console on is the reverse order of removing it: put the 3 back screws back in (1 in armrest, 2 on the rear sides) and then the front 2 screws under the shifter, 1 in the ashtray and the 2 clips on the sides of the center console.

If you want to have the top of the ebrake boot at a certain point, here’s a suggestion: the boot is folded on the top. if you make a small slit on the underneath of the fold, you can fit a cable tie through, line up to where you want it, then tie it up, and one is the wiser. It can’t be seen since it’s on the underside of the ebrake handle.

ENJOY YOUR NEW LEATHER BOOTS!

Useful tip

You have installed a product made out of genuine leather. As you know, to maintain a leather product in good condition, you should take care of it. We suggest occasionally (every 4-6 week for example) applying some leather conditioner/UV protector to keep your leather from drying up in the sun and cracking.

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my5thgen 00-03 12/27/2020

2002 Infiniti I35 with 2002 Nissan Maxima Front End Conversion

Community Member Credit: Hdnseek

Back story behind the car, I bought it in March with damage to the front end. It had sat for 8 months at a apartment complex after the owner moved away. I drove it around a few days and fixed the coolant leak from the water neck being broken from the accident. I started tearing it apart, removed the radiator support and found the frame rails were bent pretty good! Towed it out to my work and straightened the frame rails and welded in a new radiator support. Went to my local wrench n go and sourced a whole front end off of a 03 maxima! Here’s what i have for parts.

Hood, Front Fenders, Bumper $75.00
Front Crash Parts $40.00
Headlights $35.00
Wiring Pigtails Free
Foglights FREE

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myInfiniti 12/26/2020

VQ37VHR Timing Chain Marks

Community Member Credit: BULL

Hello everyone, I put this together to help others out when doing timing in these engines. As great as this engine is, internally it has some life-threatening issues that will decrease it longevity if not addressed.
These are in the timing chain area: Gallery gasket, Chain tensioners and guides

Note: Most will adopt the mentality of marking the removal and repeat the install and this is a great idea. Unfortunately this wont work for all. Turning the engine until all marks are aligned can be a waste of time due to the many times it might require and removal and resetting might just be the easiest.

Here are some simple picture explicit ways of how to double check your work. You can start by aligning the damper with this timing mark in the cover, if doubtful about the crank cog you can use the this method as confirmation

Once timing cover is loosened and removed you’ll be left with this view. As you all can see my gasket has broken.

Then after everything comes off

To make sure your cams are aligned the pin need will align with the indentation in the cam girdle like so:

I learned that even that it had 120k miles this had happened: I had no suspicion of this nor heard any noise.

This job can be expensive to do. How expensive is entirely up to you.
to fix these the proper way OEM tensioners are a $120 + option that requires the removal of the camshafts girdle and removal of the VVEL Eccentric shaft that I had no interest in doing. With the VQ40 nissan sells replacement cam shoes but not for the VQ37 . The plunger part of the tensioner does not go bad so soon.

The plunger/Shoe from a VQ35 DE is the same part and can interchange. These parts are $27 for the pair. The shoe appears to be made from the same material of the OEM one so I’ll check it again in 100k miles

I painted the marks and between the FSM and other pictures I was able to find I confirmed. Final result was the start.

Remember:
Circle dots are for Bank 1
Oval dots are for Bank 2

These you will align with the two orange links on the cam chain, the single chain link with meet the oval mark on the VTC for bank 2 and circle on the VTC for bank 1

There are 3 ways to verify the crank, with the Damper like the first pic showed, aligning the crank tooth with the mark on the pump and with the chain’s orange link and the mark at 5 o clock on the cog.

Make sure you leave NO tension on the untensioned sides of the chain as any looseness can alter timing.

The last tension you should pull the pin from is the main cam, check tension and if it’s too loose use a bar to click the tensioner over one click

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my4thgen 95-99 12/24/2020

How to Install Fog Lights on 1997-1999 4thgen Nissan Maxima

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my5thgen 00-03 12/11/2020

How to Get Rid of The Door Chime on 5thgen Nissan Maxima

Community Member Credit: phi11yphan

Hi, everyone. First time site post, long time reader. I still love my ’02 Maxima SE, 6-speed manual! Thanks to everyone for all your stories, advice, and wisdom.

I read the above suggestions, but chose an alternate sound/chime/buzzer/speaker solution. My option took me less than an hour; (I cut some corners.) I wanted to share my approach for those who don’t like cutting wires, disabling the door button, and want to easily reverse the “fix” in the future. I hated when I wanted to play music with my driver door open and the keys in the ignition for the radio — that annoying chime would beep non-stop, interfering with my music. But I didn’t want to lose the car’s ability to know when the door opened/closed (for lock and alarm purposes.) I still like seeing the “door-open” visual indicator; and i don’t like cutting OEM harness wires if I don’t have to.

My method involves removing the piezoelectric plate (thin silver element) from the ECM’s buzzer. It may not be the perfect solution, but it’s much easier than it sounds. Remember taking apart your old digital watch to replace the battery, and noticing the tiny spring that makes contact with the silver element in the battery compartment? It’s kind of like removing that element — the watch no longer made sound if the plate was missing/damaged, and that’s what this fix does. It removes the plate.

The only drawback is that now I won’t hear ANY sounds that the ECM tries to make for me, because the speaker is incomplete. One useful warning sound I will miss, for example, is when I leave my headlights on after I take the keys out of the ignition. (It could happen after driving through a long tunnel or a parking garage during the day, and forgetting to turn them off at the end of the trip.) That loss aside, this is what I did to silence my annoying door-open sound:

1. It’s probably good to disconnect your car battery’s negative terminal at this point. (I didn’t bother, but I’m a risky nut.) Your ECM (engine control module) is important; so use your better judgment.

2. Under the steering wheel and behind the lower dash, locate the ECM module mounted on a flat metal post. The ECM is a white rectangular box mounted tightly, that slides off easier when a flathead screwdriver is inserted between the ECM plastic and the metal mount. (A circular nub on the plastic keeps it secure by pressing against the metal mount.) Remove the ECM and then disconnect the 3 harnesses.

Location of the 3 ECM wire harnesses:

Closer look at harnesses:

Plastic nub on ECM:

ECM in hand:

There’s the piezo buzzer we want to get to:

3. Slide the ECM circuit board out of its plastic protective case. Don’t rush, since you don’t want to damage the board or the case. It requires some cautious strength to wiggle the board free from the plastic guides. Easy does it. Used a screwdriver or needle-nose pliers if you need to. It’s probably good to ground yourself free from electrostatic charge before doing this, as not to damage the electronics with a static charge. (Again, I’m a nut and so I didn’t bother.)

4. With board in hand, find a clear table so you can take apart the piezo speaker without losing any pieces. Carefully pry the black cover off the underlying base of the piezo buzzer, to reveal the inside:

5. That shiny, thin, silver disk is the piezoelectic element that you want to remove. Take it off. (It’s unsecured, and will easily fall out once you take the black cap off.) This is the critical component that makes the chimes/sounds/warnings. Save it somewhere, in case you ever want to reverse the procedure down the road.

6. Replace the black cap (or not — it’s optional), and put everything else back together. Don’t start the car without the ECM wire harnesses back in their expected receptacles.

7. Test, and enjoy a quieter ride!

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my5thgen 00-03 12/07/2020

5thgen Nissan Maxima Interior LED Conversion

Community Member Credit: mist max2000

I just wanted to throw this together so people can see what what an LED interior looks like…in post number 2 and 3 ill put some detailed pics up.. Let me know what you think.. any questions feel free to ask…

DAYTIME:

NIGHT TIME:

to get the map lights to work you need to reverse the polarity..once you remove the map light/sunglasses holder (2 phillips scerws in sunglasses holder then it pops off) you need to switch the – and + wires.. i did this by using quick taps as can be seen in this pic…

Heres the bulb I used,… Its a BA9 5 LED

heres the Dome light.. i got a 36 LED circuit board that had a adapter on the end the fit in the festoon bulb i dont remember the exact size sorry…and yes thats duct tape lol

heres the bulb for the personal mirror lights…3 SMT vanity bulb

and the bulb in the doors.. 6LED bulb 194 wedge bulb

I used 194 wedge bulb that had 4 LEDs flat faced like the previous 6 LED picture above…. heres the license plate LED’s

oh and i also put the same LED’s in my running lights as my license plate lights 194 wedge 4 led-flat,..also in the pic..paired with 5K HID fogs

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my5thgen 00-03 05/19/2019

(2002-2004) Infiniti i35 Cluster Swap into 5thgen Nissan Maxima (2002-2003)

All you need to do is re-pin the wires. No need to extend them. It is best to start with the M34 Plug and then do the M32 Plug.

Re-pinning Instructions

Pinout Reference

#20 Red/Yellow —–Move To—— > #49
#22 Black —–Move To—— > #59
#23 Yellow w/ Red Strip Silver Dots —–Move To—— > #62
#24 Orange —–Move To—— > #66
#58 orange/Black —–Move To—— > #56
#59 Black –—-Move To—— > #57
#60 Blue —–Move To—— > #58
#62 Silverish w/ Blue —–Move To—— > #20 (See photo below)
#63 Green/ Brown —–Move To—— > #21

Backside of completed M34 Wiring

Backside of completed M32 Wiring

Comparison Wiring

LED Color Swap

The Infiniti i35 has a single light source which makes it easy to swap to an LED strip. Below is what is commonly used since it allows you change the color as you want. I went with blue but good to have options. I tapped into an ACC power source for the lightening.

Additional Photo’s

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my5thgen 00-03 10/19/2020

Side Clear Corner Lights Install on 5thgen Nissan Maxima

Community Member Credit: pmas76

The lights that I use to illuminate the clear corners are the PIAA Xtreme Whites (194 Wedge Bulb) which you can also get from Custommaxima.com. I got the PIAA Xtremes because of their recommendations from fellow Maxima.org members and the fact that I use PIAA Xtreme Whites throughout the rest of the car. I wanted the entire car to use the same brand & style bulbs. The PIAA Xtreme Whites are brighter than stock bulbs yet give a slight tint of blue.

The clear corners are very easy to install. First remove the original front amber corner light by taking a butter knife wrapped in a paper towel and pry gently behind the thinner side of the oval light toward the rear of the car.

Once the stock front amber corner light is removed take the bulb housing off of the back of the corner light by turning it 90 degrees clockwise. Then remove the stock bulb and replace it with you new bulb of choice.

Now, what I would suggest doing, is place a thin bead of clear silicone sealant around the edge of where the plastic and the reflector of the corner light meet so that you can reduce the chance of condensation build up from rain. Next, put the bulb housing back in the corner light by turning it 90 degrees counter-clockwise. Then, just pop the corner light back into place.

As for the rear clear corner light you more or less follow the same steps as above. The only difference is that I would suggest prying the larger side of the oval closer to the front of the car because it is easier to remove that way.

At Night

For a inexpensive price tag the clear corner lights give the car that euro racing look and a nice contrast from the black paint on the car. I feel the clear corners look much better then those ugly stock amber and red corner lights that come stock on the car.

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my5thgen 00-03 10/19/2020

2002-2003 5thgen Nissan Maxima Orange Headlight Reflector Removal

Community Member Credit: maxilvr06

This page is a How to on clearing out that ugly orange blinker lens within the 02-03 maxima headlight housing. If you choose to use a clear lens (and not just leave the lens out) on your headlight, I suggest you buying a package of malibu 11 watt sealed beams (P/N: ML11P2) found at home depot in the outdoor lighting section. They are shown below:

Materials Needed:

10mm Socket Wrench
1 Average Phillips Screwdriver
1 Small Phillips Screwdriver
1 Small Flat Head Screwdriver (or Something Else Small and Flat)
Wide/Flat Screwdrivers (as Many as Needed)
Dremel Tool With Cutting Wheel and Fine Grit Sanding Attachments Oven
1 Cookie Sheet/Baking Pan
2 Old Towels
2 Malibu 11 Watt Sealed Beams P/n:ml11p2 (Found at Home Depot in a Pack of Two in the Outdoor Lighting Section)
Channel Locks
Paper Towel

Instructions:

1.) Remove headlight from car by using a 10mm socket wrench to remove the two screws attached to the upper radiator support and pulling sharply.

2.) Unplug one grey harness leading to the low beam and unplug the blinker and the high beam bulbs by twisting and pulling out.

3.) Once the headlight is removed from the car, remove all the bulbs and the ballast from it:

-use an average sized phillips screwdriver to remove the three silver screws holding the ballast to the headlight housing

-unplug the harness connecting the ballast to the headlight housing by inserting a small flathead screwdriver (or something else small and flat) into the opening pictured below to release it while pulling

-disconnect the large red/orange wire from the anchor point by squeezing the tip end together and pulling through

-remove the clearance bulb,
-remove the black plastic cap covering the HID bulb

-twist the harness and pull out to reveal the bulb.

-After you get the bulb disconnected, remove it by pinching the two metal pins together and lifting upward giving you access to it. (all the attatched harnesses and plugs will be fine in the oven)

Here are what the bulb and ballast look like removed:

4.) Remove three very small screws from the backside of the headlight housing (two are located on the blinker side of the headlight, and one is just above where the ballast is; circled in red in the picture at the top of the page)

5.) Take an old towel and wet it, then put it on a cookie sheet or some type of baking pan so that the housing will not come in contact with hot metal while in the oven.

6.) Set the headlight on top of the wet towel face down (no need to cover the housing with the towel) and bake it for 20 minutes in the oven at 210 degrees.

**DANGER! Do NOT let any of the plastic parts, including the harnesses come in contact with any part of the oven or the metal pan! It could melt!**

7.) After taking the headlight out of the oven, lay it on an old towel and put the headlight on your lap while sitting down so you can get a good grip on it.

8.) Using a wide, flat screwdriver, gently insert it in between the black plastic housing and the clear lens where ever there is a gap. (i started at the top)

9.) With the screwdriver inserted still, slowly move it around the housing lifting the black plastic part up and try to pry the tabs up as you go. You can also use a couple other screwdrivers and just wedge them in where the tabs are so that you can pull apart the housing without having the tabs latch again on you.

10.) Be extremely patient on this part and try not to damage any of the plastic. (because it can be quite pliable after they’re baked) Once you get a bit of a gap all around the top of the housing, get a good grip and, without breaking anything preferably, slowly pull it apart. (the sealant will still be very sticky, so if you need to, you can put it back in the oven for 5 more minutes to make it a bit softer)

11.) When pulling apart the housing, try to release as many as the bottom tabs as possible for more ease, but after you get the top half disconnected, it should be pretty easy to pry apart the rest of the housing.

12.) When taken apart, it will look like the picture below. Remove the orange lens by simply snapping it out toward you from the three little tabs. (be very careful on this part though. The tabs are very small and will probably be very easy to break if too much stress is applied to it)

13.) Center the orange lens over the malibu housing as best as possible, and use a permanent marker to trace it onto the malibu lens.

14.) Using a dremel with a cutting wheel attachment, carefully cut the lens out of the housing. (try not to get too close to the circle you traced. the cut doesn’t have to be perfect and you’ll see why in the next step)

15.) Swap attachments on your dremel to a fine grit sander type and go to town sanding down the lens until you get a perfect fit. I suggest doing several trial fits before hand, because in my case, the circle i traced was a bit too small and i ended up using rubbing alcohol to remove the black circle i traced so that it wouldn’t show through.

16.) Snap the clear lens in the same way you took the amber one out, still being careful to not break one of the small tabs.

17.) Assemble the headlight again as best you can and bake for another 10 minutes at the same temp.

18.) Once the sealant is softened again, take your channel locks and put a paper towel inside of them (so that you don’t scratch the plastic) and go around the entire housing squeezing the lens back on using the channel locks. Make sure that all the tabs are attached firmly in the end.

19.) Re-assemble the entire housing and install it back on your car in reverse order and enjoy! (don’t forget the three little screws around the housing though, because i did!)

The results are great!

This is a comparison between the cleared headlight and the stock one. A pretty big difference if you ask me..

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my5thgen 00-03 10/11/2020

5thgen Nissan Maxima with Brabus Style White 90-LED Under Car Puddle Lights

Community Member Credit: Eddy

These puddle lights are a nice clean edition. Back in the day they use to have “Street Glow”. I find these are much cleaner and only turn on with either a door unlock or when you open door. Installation was pretty easy and straight-forward. You just need to make sure you align the LED pods so they don’t look out of place. I’ve had them for many years through rain and snow with no issues.

Price: $24.99
Item Description: Brabus Style White 90-LED Underglow Under Car Puddle Lighting Lamp Universal
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/302354956776

PACKAGE INCLUDES: