Community Member Credit: Matt Paine
Credit: freezer
I dug into the cluster to try and figure out why the gauge was off. All the resistors to the fuel level sensor checked out OK but apparently the joints to the board can crack causing intermittent or permanent problems. Re-soldering the joints on the 4 resistors should solve the problem of the fuel gauge reading too high.
The resistors are R4, R64, R124, and R125. They are directly below the cluster part number in the attached picture.
Member Credit: 95naSTA
Original Source Credit: https://maxima.org/forums/4th-generation-maxima-1995-1999/639883-lower-radiator-support-replacement-pics.html
The total time start to finish was 9 hours but my font end was a little mangled. I had to pull out one lower corner, slide hammer and sledge the passenger unibody rail, unkink the drivers side upper rad and unibody rail, and a few other things to get the new part to fit. Ignore the miss alignments. They’re more of an upper rad, fog bucket and bumper support.
Other new parts: bumper support, support brackets, hood struts, and cross member bolts.
I welded it in either from the back through the holes drilled in the unibody during dismantling or I drilled new holes through the new support to weld it to the unibody. I wouldn’t suggest just bolting it in.
I lined everything up, bolted it in with the tow hooks, spot welded, then took the hooks off to do the last few spot welds on the bottom from the rear. There are 6 spot welds per side that are in the unibody rail and a pita to drill out. I used a die grinder with a long shanked carbide burr to burn through those. This pic shows the 6 inside:
Member Credit: Shaquille Keon Jenkins
This is a one-of-a-kind custom hood made by Shaquille himself. Definitely very creative and unique. First of its kind on a Nissan Maxima.
Credit: Mark Baker
**THIS SETUP IS FULLY INDEPENDENT TO A SEPARATE TOGGLE SWITCH, PULLING POWER FROM YOUR AMPS POSITIVE WIRE, IT WILL NOT WORK WITH YOUR SHIFTER**
I only have an HID in the driver’s side. The passenger side is LED which has stock functionality with the shifter. I did this so I wouldn’t have to use the HID every time I back up, every time I shift into Drive causing the ballast to fire up for a split second passing reverse reducing the life span, and to be able to blind tailgaters behind me on the highway. You have no idea how many people get my attention to tell me one of my reverse lights are out. If you decide to do HIDs on both sides then just combine the positives from each ballast and ground negatives on each side near the ballast.
The “Pilot Safety” toggle switch I used had 3 wire connections. If you get a switch with only two connections, then tough titties, you figure out how that shit works, I don’t know, don’t ask me. I used regular speaker wiring (16 or 14 gauge I think, you don’t wanna use anything too small for obvious reasons) and “crimp style” connectors.
Wires will connect from:
- SWITCH TO IN-LINE FUSE TO POWER
- SWITCH TO GROUND
- SWITCH TO BALLAST
- BALLAST TO GROUND
(Switch)
Find a suitable place to mount the switch and figure out how to run wires to that location. I put mine where the heated seat switches would be if I had leather, which I don’t. Lucky me because running wires from there was extremely easy, and was an extremely convenient location to hit the switch on the go. I just ran it straight back underneath the center console, through the rear hump on the floor to under the bench seat. Then to the amp/cap and around the “carpet” lining of the trunk.
(1st wire – power input to switch)
I pulled power from my Amp/Capacitor wiring which goes directly into the switch. If you don’t have an amp, just run a wire from the battery. This is where you use appropriate sized “crimp style” connectors. You can also use a distributor block to split the amp wire so one goes to the amp and the other goes to the switch. Me being ghetto and cheap, my power wire is connected directly at the positive connection of the capacitor itself. Before I had the capacitor, I had it connected directly to the amps power/positive connection with no problems.
(^HIGHLY RECOMMENDED: Use an “in-line fuse” here BETWEEN the amp and the switch, so you don’t blow the bulb, ballast or switch, due to any spikes or whatever. I think a 10-15amp fuse will suffice but start low, fuses are cheaper to replace. I have one but I haven’t even put it in yet and haven’t encountered any problems thus far. I’m just connected directly.)
(2nd wire – Ground)
Wire comes out of the switch and is grounded to any suitable bolt. Mine is actually grounded at the amps negative terminal, don’t ask me why, it’s probably wasn’t the brightest idea, but I did. (Haven’t encountered any problems yet) Then run a ground from the negative terminal of the ballast to any suitable bolt. (Good, now your nice and grounded)
(3rd wire – Output Power wire)
Comes out of the switch goes straight to the positive connection to the HID Ballast. (Again, appropriate sized “crimp style” connectors were used here on each ends, but your set up may be different, I don’t know know. I’m not there.)
How you fit the bulb into the tail light is all up to you. I got mine from Gregory Lachhman in New York who did his a long time ago. He got an extra Oem bulb socket from the the JY or whatever, drilled a big enough hole through it to fit the bulb, and sealed it in place with JB weld I think. He helped me through this when I did it so credit goes out to him. So my HID bulb is pretty much plug and play. Perfect fit. Although if the bulb blows out, I’m gonna have to find another socket to drill a hole in and fit the bulb.
I used a slim ballast and just used double sticky tape to mount it to the inner fender wall.
My bulb is 6000k.
I’m sure there are many other methods to doing this, but this is how I did it. If this DIY has helped you, please post a pic of your setup and tag me in it. Thanks.
Car Pics:
Community Member Credit: Kevin Kryzda
Tools necessary:
- 10mm socket and an extension
- Flathead screwdriver (or pry tool)
- Wire/Side Cutters or Wire Strippers
- Wire taps or soldering tools
Before You Start:
The purpose of this modification is to re-wire your fog light relay under your hood to receive signal from an accessory source of power that is independent of anything else in the car, allowing you to turn on your fog lights without the headlights as well as run them with your high beams. The modification is very inexpensive and will avoid/end the problems with the “windshield wiper” write-up.
The purpose of this modification is to re-wire your fog light relay under your hood to receive signal from an accessory source of power that is independent of anything else in the car, allowing you to turn on your fog lights without the headlights as well as run them with your high beams. The modification is very inexpensive and will avoid/end the problems with the “windshield wiper” write-up.
Steps:
1. First off your going to want to locate the relay box located on the left side of your under hood as indicated by the arrow.
1. First off your going to want to locate the relay box located on the left side of your under hood as indicated by the arrow.
2. Then you will want to remove the reservoir in between you and the relay panel. This is attached by two 10mm bolts on the left side of the car. Following this, set the reservoir aside.
3. Next you will want to remove the cover from the relay box prying the two tabs holding it on outward and lift the cover up.
4. Now you will want to remove the air conditioning relay and the heated mirror relay if you are equipped with them. To do this, use your pry tool and insert on the side of the relay that has a clip, push away from the relay and then pull up on the relay itself.
5. Next remove the two exposed 10mm bolts holding the relay box in. Now pull up on the box and release the snap tab located on the bottom arm of the box.
6. Once the relay panel is free from the car you will need to open it to expose the wiring inside. To do this release the 3 clips on the right and left side of the box indicated with the arrows. Then open.
7. Now that you have the wiring exposed you are going to be working with the signal wire from the fog relay and the accessory power wire from the air conditioning relay. The yellow wire coming out of the fog relay is the wire you want to give +12V and the pink wire with a blue stripe from the A/C relay is where you will get it. To access the pink wire better you will probably need to remove the relay harness from the housing. To do this pry in the direction indicated and push out the bottom of the housing.
8. Now cut the yellow wire and without cutting the pink wire run a wire from it to the yellow wire leading into the blue relay harness.
9. I prefer soldering all of my connections but you can attach how you like. I highly recommend no matter what you do though, make sure to tape up everywhere you work. Make sure to tape up the open end of the yellow wire as well.
10. Now close everything up and reverse the previous steps to return everything how you found it. Flip your fog lights on and admire. You can turn them on whenever you want granted the car is on.
Price: $146.32
Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-LED-Halo-For-2002-2003-Nissan-Maxima-Dual-LED-Halo-Black-Headlights-Pair/274382324188
General Feedback:
- With the 6000k HIDs you wont really be able to see the halo rings. the lenses that they use give off a slight glare which actually make the HIDs look a little brighter than they are, which to me isnt a bad thing at all. i would post a pic of them lit on my car but its in the shop.
- One of my buddies here in MI bought the ebay projector head lights and his bulbs weren’t seating properly. The right bulb was bouncing in the housing. They didn’t fit properly and just were cheap quality. So I personally wouldn’t recommend them.
- Are people trolling by trying to buy ebay headlights? Only thing they’re good for are the lens lol
- Ebay halo’s suck… ZERO light distribution. Youd have more light on the road getting 5th gen headlights and silverstars lol.
Photos:
