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4DSC = 4-DOOR SPORTS CAR

The “4DSC” name was officially designated by Nissan in 1985. The  Nissan Maxima has always one of the sportiest midsize sedan offerings. Its roots trace back to the 1976 Datsun 810, which had a fuel-injected straight-six, five-speed manual transmission, and semi-trailing arm rear suspension. Nissan introduced the updated 1985 Maxima as the four-door sports car or 4DSC, forever cementing the car’s position in the minds and hearts of the enthusiastic driver.

MY4DSC =  MY 4-DOOR SPORTS CAR

This is our branded name adding “MY” which means showcasing “MY OWN” (aka your own) 4-Door Sports car. This website was officially launched on January 1st, 2017. It’s the #1 educational Nissan Maxima website on the web. We provide the latest and most exclusive content in the Maxima community!

1989 Nissan 4DSC Commercial

Commercial from 1989 for the Nissan Maxima, promoting it as a 4-door Sports Car (4DSC), a naming they put on each car as a sticker. The Maxima was redesigned on October 24, 1988 for the 1989 model year as the J30 series (not to be confused with the unrelated Infiniti J30) model.

Larger dimensions made it the second Japanese sedan sold in North America to qualify as a “mid-size” (after the Mazda 929). Nissan marketed this generation Maxima in North America a four-door sports car and even gave it a “4DSC” window decal showing this. This generation was briefly sold in Japan, replacing the Nissan Leopard sedan at Nissan Bluebird Store locations.

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Credit: James Pastor

Years ago, my wife decided she wanted a mid-sized sedan. She was tired of the van, and America’s obsession with the SUV was in its incipient form. We were looking for something used, in the $10,000 range.

We had missed on a Taurus that had just sold. A couple days prior we looked at an import sedan (it was either an Accord or a Camry). After dinner one evening we drove past a Honda dealership and I saw a fourth-generation Maxima parked out front. I always liked the look of these cars and felt they were perfectly sized. The next generation Maxima would become larger and the next gen after that even more so.

This Gold example had alloy wheels and a spoiler, so I knew It was not a base model. I made a U-turn and went back. When we pulled in, my wife noticed it also had a sunroof. I noticed that the windshield had four large bright orange stickers that spelled out “6995”. (Remember this number, we’ll need it later).

The car had leather seats and seemed in excellent condition. The odometer showed approximately 75,000 miles. I also noted that it was a five speed. I was beginning to like this car more and more. A very young salesman came out and introduced himself. He did not even seem to be of drinking age yet. If he was – and drank, he got carded regularly. He was a nice kid, but the only thing he knew about the car was where he could find the keys.

As he went to get them, I had a look at the car. This generation Maxima was sold from 1994-1999. All had the same three liter V6 from the 300ZX, with about 190 horses. The automatic transmissions were known to be fragile, especially with age. The Maxima was the flagship Nissan and when loaded, was quite a nice vehicle.

As best I could tell, this one had original paint and consequently no hidden accident damage. The underside was perfect, and all the fluids looked good. The four tires were all the same brand, with about half of their life left.

Incidentally, I always check to see if a used car has matching tires. If they are all the same brand (and correct size) and they are not new, it often means the previous owner was good with maintenance. If they are new, the dealer probably just put them on, so you don’t know. You can also check the age of a tire. All passenger car tires sold in the US have a four-digit week/year of manufacture stamped into the sidewall. It is stamped only once, so when mounted you have a fifty-fifty chance of being able to see it from the outside.

My wife and I went for a test drive with the junior salesman in the back seat. The car ran great, and when it was her turn, my wife enjoyed it. Driving a manual is not a big deal for her. When we got back to the dealership, I wanted to check the book value. This was before smartphones were everywhere, so I asked if there was a computer available. The very green salesman looked puzzled, but showed me to a glass cubicle with a PC. A quick search revealed that the retail value of this car was in the $10-11k range. The trade in/private party values were more than what they were asking.

He stammered through the classic sales question: “What do I have to do to get you to take this car home today?” I replied “Nothing, we’ll take it!” This made him freeze! He did not know what the next step was. He stuttered, and admitted that we were his first customers. He left to go get help.

A few minutes later, we had our licenses copied and were signing papers when the sales manager interrupted. “I’m sorry to tell you all that the car is actually priced at $9,995.” Our young salesman immediately went to bat for us: “Well the price on the windshield says $6,995 and that’s what we agreed on”. The manager explained that in the package of stickers, the same sticker was used for a “6” or a “9”. Someone goofed. The boss was trying to negotiate up, but our young salesman would have none of it. It didn’t matter that the first digit had inadvertently been flipped, a deal is a deal.

The manager finally changed his tune. He gave me a lecture about how the dealership we were sitting in was a place that keeps their word. He continued with a spiel about how he hoped we would always be lifelong customers, and we should also tell all our friends how great his dealership was.

This was the same dealership that forgot to remove any of the previous owner’s paperwork from the glovebox. The next morning, in my driveway, I learned that it was a one-owner car, and when I found the original window sticker, I realized that in 1999 this thing sold for thirty grand!

I really enjoyed that Maxima. The seats were excellent, the ride was a perfect blend of soft yet sporty. It was large enough for me to take all four kids somewhere (before they were teenagers), but it wasn’t really a large car. The manual made it fun, and it was strong enough to bark the tires off the line.

Because it was technically my wife’s car, we kept it for about four years. In all that time it never broke down, although once I spent the better part of two days in my garage putting a new clutch and pressure plate in it.

I’ve never bought another car from that dealer. They’ve just never had anything in stock I’ve wanted. Oh, and they’re far too careful with their price stickers these days too.

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Credit: Tamotsu Todoroki
Source: https://www.picknbuy24.com/column_207.html

Have you seen the button located on your shift knob but have no idea what it is or what it does? That button is known as the overdrive (O/D) and regulates the gear system of your automatic vehicle. You might be wondering why such an option exists; you bought an automatic vehicle so that you didn’t have to deal with this type of mechanical jargon, right? Despite the convenience of an automatic vehicle, a little manual work of using the O/D does have a useful purpose and will benefit you financially to learn what it does and how to use it.

So, What Does it Do?

The short answer to what the O/D does is that it saves you money on gas. When the O/D is on, your transmission lowers the revolutions per minute (RPMs) of the engine to make it work less to achieve the same job. You’ll notice that if you drive 10 miles going up hill, your vehicle is forced to put in a lot of effort. As a result your gas will be eaten up a lot faster than if you were driving on a flat road for the same 10 miles. Less work equals better fuel economy.

You may be wondering why your car has this option but some of your friend’s cars do not. Many of the newer vehicles being produced are no longer being built with these overdrive buttons, but they do still have these features installed; instead newer vehicles automatically turn on the overdrive usually when the speed exceeds 45 miles per hour. Just because your vehicle has a physical button doesn’t mean that it is difficult or complex to use, most of the time it’s as simple as turning on the radio.

How Do I Turn O/D On?

The primary setting on your automatic vehicle is to use this function whenever possible; therefore, pressing the overdrive button will actually turn the cars’ overdrive function off. It is recommended that whenever you are driving your vehicle that you leave the overdrive on. Whenever overdrive is on, you are saving money on gasoline because your car is being more efficient and doing more with less.

If It Saves Me Money, Why Would I Turn it Off?

Vehicle manufactures include this O/D function for the purpose of towing and climbing hills. When your vehicle is taking part in a strenuous activity, you want to utilize the full power of your vehicle by increasing its torque. Increasing the torque and allowing your vehicle to operate with its full potential will decrease the damage that could be caused on your vehicle from towing and generating heat.

What Are RPMs and Torque and How Does O/D Affect These?

Revolutions per minute, or the RPMs, are the total 360o rotations that an engine crankshaft can perform within 60 seconds. You’ve probably seen the RPM meter on your dashboard; this meter can be detected by a portion of the meter shaded in red. The red color indicated what is essentially the “danger zone,” or a level that you should not go above without shifting into a higher gear. The higher the RPMs, the harder your car is working to perform the speed and power that you desire. O/D is a little bit like a manual regulator telling your car to take it easy.

Horsepower can be calculated by multiplying your total RPMs and the torque of the vehicle. If your vehicle is running in overdrive, the RPMs will be lower, and therefore the vehicle will have less power. When this O/D option is disengaged the power of the vehicle will increase. That means that whenever you are in need of an extra boost, turn your overdrive off, but otherwise do your best to leave it alone.

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Credit: Motor Trend

IMSA driving ace Steve Millen’s Stillen operation has a long history of squeezing extra urge out of Nissan products, so it’s little wonder that the Maxima SE sport sedan inspired Millen to create something special.

Called the SMX, this modified Maxima has key improvements concocted to elevate performance but keep the cost and complexity quite reasonable. The SMX can be ordered directly through Nissan dealers, transformed at Millen’s Costa Mesa, California, facility, or constructed piece by piece in your own garage.

An engine-management computer upgrade along with breathing help on the intake and exhaust side of the 3.0-liter V-6 bring the estimated crankshaft horsepower to 224 (up from a claimed 190 horses stock). Dyno figures notwithstanding, the SMX’s acceleration times barely budged from stock numbers. The 0-60-mph sprint times took 6.7-seconds, followed up by a 15.1-second, 92.2-mph quarter-mile run.

Far more tangible are the advances on the handling front, where the SMX enjoys meaty improvements in every performance measure. The Yokohama-wrapped 17-inch MOMO wheels combine with shorter progressive-rate springs to transform the Maxima. Ultimate skidpad grip jumped from 0.83 g stock to 0.90 g, and the slalom speed increased by 3.6 mph to a steamy 68.7 mph. Berserk laps around the racetrack revealed no evil habits, just predictable manners and substantially higher limits. Only the $100,000-plus RENNTech E60 was capable of lapping faster. The SMX’s stock Nissan dampers were a touch slushy on the track, but allow the car to retain much of its comfortable ride compliance.

Stillen’s extensive brake work pays off in measured testing and on the track. Nissan 300ZX calipers with metal matrix pads squeeze cross-drilled ZX discs up front; the stock Maxima rear brakes also get the pad and drilling treatment. Stopping distance from 60 mph plummeted from 131 feet to a 111. On the track, the big brakes proved they could do the deed over and over again with minimal fade and maximum control. At racetrack temperatures, though, the binders are prone to squealing. That, however, is the only glitch we discovered in the Stillen. With functional changes totaling less then $5000, the SMX is clearly a cost-effective upgrade for the Maxima SE.

All information shown comes from Motor Trend, December, 1996.

This SMX does not have the engine-management computer upgrade.

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IMSA driving ace Steve Millen’s Stillen operation has a long history of squeezing extra urge out of Nissan products, so it’s little wonder that the Maxima SE sport sedan inspired Millen to create something special.

Called the SMX, this modified Maxima has key improvements concocted to elevate performance but keep the cost and complexity quite reasonable. The SMX can be ordered directly through Nissan dealers, transformed at Millen’s Costa Mesa, California, facility, or constructed piece by piece in your own garage.

Only 120 were built (100 autos and 20 manuals). Only manual made in Persian Red (as far as I know). These SMX cars were mostly available in New Zealand. 

An engine-management computer upgrade along with breathing help on the intake and exhaust side of the 3.0-liter V-6 bring the estimated crankshaft horsepower to 224 (up from a claimed 190 horses stock). Dyno figures notwithstanding, the SMX’s acceleration times barely budged from stock numbers. The 0-60-mph sprint times took 6.7-seconds, followed up by a 15.1-second, 92.2-mph quarter-mile run.

Far more tangible are the advances on the handling front, where the SMX enjoys meaty improvements in every performance measure. The Yokohama-wrapped 17-inch MOMO wheels combine with shorter progressive-rate springs to transform the Maxima. Ultimate skidpad grip jumped from 0.83 g stock to 0.90 g, and the slalom speed increased by 3.6 mph to a steamy 68.7 mph. Berserk laps around the racetrack revealed no evil habits, just predictable manners and substantially higher limits. Only the $100,000-plus RENNTech E60 was capable of lapping faster. The SMX’s stock Nissan dampers were a touch slushy on the trakc, but allow the car to retain much of its comfortable ride compliance.

Stillen’s extensive brake work pays off in measured testing and on the track. Nissan 300ZX calipers with metal matrix pads squeeze cross-drilled ZX discs up front; the stock Maxima rear brakes also get the pad and drilling treatment. Stopping distance from 60 mph plummeted from 131 feet to a 111. On the track, the big brakes proved they could do the deed over and over again with minimal fade and maximum control. At racetrack temperatures, though, the binders are prone to squealing. That, however, is the only glitch we discovered in the Stillen. With functional changes totalin less then $5000, the SMX is clearly a cost-effective upgrade for the Maxima SE.

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Credit: Eddy

There has been a lot of discussion in the Nissan Maxima community around the crankshaft pulley and whether it’s a dampener or balancer. Despite how often people get them confused, a crank pulley, a vibration damper, and a harmonic balancer are three different things. Kind of like they’re, their, and there. The crank pulley on a VQ acts as a vibration damper, but it is not a harmonic balancer. The VQ is internally balanced.

What is often called Harmonic Balancer is really a Harmonic Damper. Nissan doesn’t use either term. The factory service manual identifies the part as Crankshaft Pulley. The main purpose of a harmonic damper is to control harmonic vibration, not to balance the engine’s rotating assembly. It has nothing to do with engine balance. That’s the elastomer ring that binds the outer pulley to the inner pulley. Just about every car manufacturer uses a thin rubber ring between two concentric pieces of a crankshaft pulley. The amount of damping can be varied by how thick the ring is.

Additional Info:

As for the underdrive pulley vs. light-weight stock pulley… the light-weight stock size pulley will help you rev faster and may free up some horsepower because it is lighter than the stock pulley. An underdrive pulley (UDP) will do the same things, but it will do them a little better because it is smaller and even lighter, and, due to its smaller size, also takes less power away from your engine to drive your alternator and air conditioning compressor. Most people don’t really notice the loss in electrical power or AC efficiency unless they have big audio systems.

It’s important to note that both pulleys are solid and do not have vibration dampers. Also, the UDP will require you to use a smaller accessory belt. Take those as you will.

Most UDP failures have been the pulley itself due to cheap quality. The majority of VQ owners have never had an issue with “upgraded” pulleys.

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Credit: roro

I decided to just compile a thread listing all part numbers that have been frequently requested. This will answer everyone’s questions about what exactly is needed to do everything right and hopefully eliminate any confusion or trial and error.

SER Tail Lights

  • 26555ZB725 – left
  • 26550ZB725 – right

SER Front Bumper

  • 62022ZB700 – front bumper
  • 62084ZB700 – lower grille
  • 62256ZB700, 62257ZB700 – fog finishers
  • 26155ZB725, 26150ZB725 – projector fog lights
  • 085666205A – screws for new fogs; you will need 4 (2/side)
  • 089671065A – nuts/clips for fogs; also need 4
  • 62090ZB700 – foam absorber; NOT needed (you can just remove the old one)
  • 63842ZB700, 63843ZB700 – wheel wells (aka fender liners); these are highly recommended! the stock wheel wells will not fit / match up with the SER bumper
  • 75890ZB700 – engine undercover; also highly recommended. the stock one will not reach the SER bumper. you could always go w/o it but who knows what could splash up there.

SER Suspension

  • 562307Y007 – rear sway bar (27mm)
  • 546137Y011 – rear bushings; you will need 2 of these to fit the thicker RSB
  • 562347Y001, 562337Y001 – rear brackets; you need these with the RSB
  • 54611ZB700 – front sway bar (24mm)
  • 54613ZB700 – front bushings; need 2 with FSB
  • 54303ZB725 – front strut, left
  • 54302ZB725 – front strut, right
  • 56210ZB725 – rear shocks (you need 2 obviously)

Nissan FSM recommends replacing these nuts and bolts for the front struts every time (e.g. during a spring installation)

  • 012230004U – (4) lower mounting nuts, 93-114lbs
  • 54588AD002 – (2) connecting rod bolts, 59-72lbs
  • 0122300301 – (2) piston rod lock, 44-65lbs

SER Spoiler

  • 96030ZB710 – lip spoiler; comes unpainted!

NISMO

  • 13020RNZ35 – VQ35 cams
  • 20100RNL10 – 3.5 catback
  • 5300SRSL10 – suspension, front
  • 5621SRSL10 – suspension, rear
  • 54600RSL10 – sway bars (but you might as well get the SER parts since they are the same and cheaper)

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