Order Link: https://www.ebay.com/itm/161362333646
Price: $98.47
Video:
Traction Rods are used to absorb unwanted deflection in the OEM control arm. Largely do to the OEM’s rubber bushings, under hard acceleration the control arms natural motion of up and down can be compromised by the forces created as the axles try to turn the front wheels. This deflection is then translated in to things like wheel hop and under some circumstances, torque steer.
Price: $149.99
Part Number: TR-A35
Traction Rods help to ensure the correct suspension geometry under acceleration and stop the “toe-in/toe-out” condition created when the car is under load. This assists in power transmission to the ground and therefore faster acceleration in straight lines and coming out of corners in both wet and dry conditions. Some additional toe adjustment for front alignment may also be obtained.
Easily mounts to the car in less than one hour. Almost no ground clearance is lost during the installation of these Traction Rods. As measured on a vehicle lowered 2″, the lowest point of the kit is 1/4″ higher than the subframe and directly in line with the wheels center line so there is no risk of scraping the rod on a speed bump.
Perfect for any car that sees track duty, whether it be drag or autoX, the difference in feel and power transmission is felt immediately!
Optional Stainless steel joint are available to ensure long service life, especially for vehicles the see sno/salt
All hardware and instructions are included.
Engineered to perform where others have failed, Racingline Strut bars are engineered to be both classic in style and functional in design.
Price: $99.99
Designed to be a simple bolt on product, the Racingline strut tower bar connects the strut towers to provide for a more rigid chassis that rewards the driver with greater steering feedback and response. Along with the improved steering feel, better cornering ability and stability are also realized. Allowing the driver to more confidently control the vehicle during cornering maneuvers.
Ample space around the intake manifold is enough to accommodate popular IM spacer kits. Manual equipped cars require our clutch reservoir relocation bracket, (Available from the pull down menu above, do not buy separately)
Internally the bar is divided into 3 chambers with 2 vertical walls to aid in rigidity, while maintaining the light properties aluminum is known for. Available in a high luster polish or semi gloss black (powder coated).
Install Instructions:
PDF Version: 18631_Install
Oem endlinks are weak and prone to failure on cars that are either lowered or have up graded swaybars due to the fact they use a plastic socket to house the ball joint. Lowering a vehicle typically causes the endlink to bind, further reducing it’s effectiveness and life span. Racingline endlinks are much stronger, adjustable, and more responsive the the oem units. These feature allow for a longer life span, effective corner weighting, and improved sway control.
Price: $129.99
Each link consists of:
- billet 6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum turnbuckles that are hard anodized to insure long term durability and corrosion resistance.
- Rod-end/Hiem joints which are TEFLON lined, and are made from a chrome plated chromoly alloy steel for superior strength and durability.
- Polyurethane bushings which act as dust boots to keep contaminants out of the bearing race as well as provide load resistance for an improved linear sway bar response.
- They also provide superior insulation against elevated NVH levels, a condition seen in typical hiem joint style endlinks.
- 2 High Quality THK ball joints
Sets are fully rebuildable should any component become worn out due to normal wear or otherwise. Please contact us directly if you need any hardware.
Installation Instructions:
PDF Version: V2fel_Install
Racingline endlinks are much stronger, adjustable, and more responsive the the oem units. These feature allow for a longer life span, effective corner weighting, and improved sway control.
Price: $76.99
OEM endlinks are weak and prone to failure on cars that are either lowered or have up graded swaybars due to the fact they use a plastic socket to house the ball joint. Lowering a vehicle typically causes the endlink to bind, further reducing it’s effectiveness and life span.
Racingline endlinks are much stronger, adjustable, and more responsive the the oem units. These feature allow for a longer life span, effective corner weighting, and improved sway control.
Each link consists of:
- billet 6061-T6 aircraft grade aluminum turnbuckles that are hard anodized to insure long term durability and corrosion resistance.
- Rod-end/Hiem joints which are TEFLON lined for superior strength and durability ( also available in stainless steel)
- Polyurethane bushings which act as dust boots to keep contaminants out of the bearing race as well as provide load resistance for an improved linear sway bar response. They also provide superior insulation against elevated NVH levels, a condition seen in typical hiem joint style endlinks.
Sold in pairs, compatible with all OEM and aftermarket sway bars to increase the handling potential of your car
*Chromoly is a high strength alloy steel suitable for track duty and daily driving
*Stainless steel utilize a 3 piece design with a TEFLON® liner. Best suited to daily driven cars that see winter climates.
Install Instructions:
PDF Version: V2REL
Credit: tooslow_4_u
Thanks Taz, for the nice surprise!
This will be a basic DIY install instructions. there was one spot I messed up on, but Taz told me what to do after I already made my own adjustment. Oh well, didn’t hurt the kit at all. I’ll point out what I did later in this.
Firstly, I got this nice box sent to me today
Took everything out of the packaging, and a smile came to my face when I saw it was the new Traction Rods for the 4th gens.
I did a quick assembly to determine how everything went together. In this pic, it’s not all assembled correctly, but with Taz’s help via emails, and a link he sent to the 3rd gen installation instructions, I got it put together correctly. (BTW, this isn’t the mistake I was referring to)
First, you get the car up off the ground. If you have a ramp, or a lift that will keep a load on the front tires, this will be ideal. I didn’t have access to either, so I used a regular floor jack, took the wheels off to get better access, left the locking nut on the rods loose until I put the car back on the ground.
Start by loosening the four bolts on the sub frame bracket. You will completely remove the two closest to you if you (closest to the outside of the car)
This is where I messed up!
I noticed the bolt couldn’t slide all the way through without hitting the brace. So I used a grinder and gut out the small notch in the brace so the bolt would fit. Turns out, if you assemble the entire TR Brace to the rod, you can put it all on as a whole unit, and not have to do what I did. You will slide the bracket under the subframe brace. Once in, reinstall the two bolts, but don’t fully tighten them down until you have the entire unit together as one piece.
Now, to work on the front end by the control arm.
Install the hardware in this order.
Bolt, washer, special washer, heim joint, special washer, aluminum adapter. Then install through the bottom of the control arm, then washer, and two nuts!
Topview before bolt is pushed all the way through.
Notch I made
Now, since I still have a bad axle, I haven’t been able to really get on this thing. My new axle should be here wednesday. But just the little bit of acceleration and cornering I’ve taken so far, it’s like night and day from normal. You can literally feel the wheels staying put to the pavement.
So far, on a scale of 1-10 on this mod, I’m giving it an 8. It’s not higher just because i can’t put full pressure on them yet. But by next week, that will be a different story!!!
It reduces the TQ Steer a lot. It isn’t completely gone, but if you were to put it on a scale, and normal torque steer was 10, with these rods, the TS would now be about a 2. Very minimal.
Update:
Taz made a revision on the kit to upgrade the bushings. I was having some issues with the bolt on the control arm would loosen up. I will have them installed tonight and new pics updated as well.
Taz has made the adjustment, and removed the aluminum adapter that goes on the Control arm, and now uses some thicker bushings. I reinstalled it, and I no longer have the issue with the nut coming loose. Also, make sure you follow the instructions on how to adjust the tension correctly and don’t over tighten the bars. Once everything is installed, keep the bar slacked. once the car is on the ground completely, turn the bar by hand until it gets snug. Once you get that hand tight, turn it maybe another half turn, and then tighten the locking nuts at each end.
